So i am at the point of reaassembling my motor, but i noticed on my cam there was a screw loose on the back of the stator, so i wanna take it off and figure out the problem, but i cant figure out how to get it off, someone said take the rear axle amd thread it in and that didnt work, do i need a speacial tool? If so any way i can remt one or somthing instead of buying one?
Cb 360 engine rebuild help!
- Thread starter Dwolfe51
- Start date
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Sorry that didn't work. I've read it in quite a few places, seemed to be valid.
Here's what the tool looks like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Flywheel-Puller-Tool-Fits-Honda-CB360K-1974-/330900962205?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0b3bfb9d&vxp=mtr
It is an M16 x 1.5 metric thread. You may be able to find one at a local hardware, Sears Hardware, or depot even.
Hope this helps a little.
Here's what the tool looks like:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Flywheel-Puller-Tool-Fits-Honda-CB360K-1974-/330900962205?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4d0b3bfb9d&vxp=mtr
It is an M16 x 1.5 metric thread. You may be able to find one at a local hardware, Sears Hardware, or depot even.
Hope this helps a little.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
It would be hard to turn when it bottoms out, as it needs to pull the rotor off, which is fixed on pretty well....
Tapping it lightly with a hammer helps, but tap the bolt, not the rotor, as the tapping can weaken the magnets. I can't tell you how hard, but too hard will damage the main bearings, to light won't help. This is one of those experience things. Hard to convey over the internet.
Tapping it lightly with a hammer helps, but tap the bolt, not the rotor, as the tapping can weaken the magnets. I can't tell you how hard, but too hard will damage the main bearings, to light won't help. This is one of those experience things. Hard to convey over the internet.
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
The rear axle works fine, you just have to be able to HOLD the assembly from turning. You will have to put a screwdriver/punch/metal rod through the holes in the axle and tighten the bolt into the crank end. MORE than finger tight.
As MID said you might have to tap the end of the axle with a hammer WHILE it is tight into the rotor. This will cause it to POP off the end if it is stuck.
I think trek97 has the procedure up on his work log if you search through it. I have pictures else where of how to but it really is very simple to get off. The idea is to thread the bolt/axle in far enough that it bottoms out and PUSHES the rotor off the crank.
As MID said you might have to tap the end of the axle with a hammer WHILE it is tight into the rotor. This will cause it to POP off the end if it is stuck.
I think trek97 has the procedure up on his work log if you search through it. I have pictures else where of how to but it really is very simple to get off. The idea is to thread the bolt/axle in far enough that it bottoms out and PUSHES the rotor off the crank.
Turnturtle
Been Around the Block
That notch is the keyway to align the rotor on the crank.
This shows how to do it on a cb360.
here is my blog link...also a couple of these pics were donated to the cause. by Frogman himself.
http://www.hondabrat.com/2012/08/rotor-starter-replacement.html
run a phillips screw driver through the hole in the axel and give it a tap or two to the right, (righty tighty) the added pressure of tightening will pop the thing off easy. (easy peasy) It is simply held on by the wedging action of the famous morse taper. In theory once it is pressed (torqued) into place. The bolt really does nothing and in a perfect world you could remove the bolt entirely and the thing would get along just fine, relying on the magic of the morse taper fit. We dont live in a perfect world. thus the bolt stays.
Turnturtle is also correct. there is a key twixed the shaft and rotor. this is how it keeps things aligned. Otherwise your timing marks will never be right again. You will find key once rotor is removed. DO NOT LOSE IT OR FORGET TO REPLACE IT UPON REASSEMBLY.
Absolutely do not tap on the rotor itself, the thing is chock full of magnets. Shock, such as a hammer blow may cause them to lose their magnetism. Thus your charging system will no longer make go go juice.
I used a magnet to remove the valve keeper things, at some point during my rebuild my magnet may have gotten stuck to the rotor. Magnets stick to lots of things when your busy with other things. I believe this is what may have caused my rotor to go sour.
here is my blog link...also a couple of these pics were donated to the cause. by Frogman himself.
http://www.hondabrat.com/2012/08/rotor-starter-replacement.html
run a phillips screw driver through the hole in the axel and give it a tap or two to the right, (righty tighty) the added pressure of tightening will pop the thing off easy. (easy peasy) It is simply held on by the wedging action of the famous morse taper. In theory once it is pressed (torqued) into place. The bolt really does nothing and in a perfect world you could remove the bolt entirely and the thing would get along just fine, relying on the magic of the morse taper fit. We dont live in a perfect world. thus the bolt stays.
Turnturtle said:
Turnturtle is also correct. there is a key twixed the shaft and rotor. this is how it keeps things aligned. Otherwise your timing marks will never be right again. You will find key once rotor is removed. DO NOT LOSE IT OR FORGET TO REPLACE IT UPON REASSEMBLY.
Absolutely do not tap on the rotor itself, the thing is chock full of magnets. Shock, such as a hammer blow may cause them to lose their magnetism. Thus your charging system will no longer make go go juice.
I used a magnet to remove the valve keeper things, at some point during my rebuild my magnet may have gotten stuck to the rotor. Magnets stick to lots of things when your busy with other things. I believe this is what may have caused my rotor to go sour.
Turnturtle
Been Around the Block
Verify that your bolt is an m16 x 1.5. There is a 5/8" x 18 that is damn close but, the threads bind up before the bolt bottoms out. Ask me how I know!
