OK, so it appears to have enough compression by all accounts. Cheap isn't always cost effective as they say.
So that brings us to everything else. Things get lost in translation with short replies so I'll ask again just to be sure. Did YOU check the valve clearances and if so were they tight or loose or?
On the ignition system, there are a few things that could be contributing such as:
- Weak coil
- Bad plug caps
- bad plug leads from the coils
- soiled plugs
- dirty points
- rusty connectors in the main switch or the kill/run switch
- low battery voltage
I'd start with the last one first and charge up the battery. Then I'd get a few spare new spark plugs. They are cheap and once they foul it's hard to get them to work again. I'd buy a pair of new plug caps and trim 1/4" off the ends of the plug leads. Then I'd clean the points and check the voltage at the points to see if it's close to 12 or closer to 10 or 8 even with a fresh battery. That would point to crappy connections.
Once I was happy with the electrics and was getting a spark that jumps at least a 1/4" in air across a plug tester (available for about $5 at Autozone) I'd start on the carbs. Just remember that the coil is double ended and one end must be grounded when you test for sparks. If one lead is flapping about in the breeze while you test the other side, not much will happen.
Carbs need to be spotless and on those there is a tiny hole that the pilot jet mixture sprays from that clogs easily. It's about 1/2mm across so it is small but must be clean. Check for air leaks around the carb boots and between the boots and the head.
That's enough to keep you busy for a few hours. And don't eat too many Easter eggs.