Xs750 engine build - 896cc big bore.

I did sand the steelplates lightly with 1200 grit, just to take the shine off them, kind of thought it would take some bedding before it would function 100% but i will have to open and see, this is a bit too bad to drive. Otherwise both basket and plates were all straight and looked fresh so no problem there.
 
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your problem occurs with a clutch that has all steel plates after they get hot but it sounds to me like you simply do not have enough travel in the lever to fully disengage the plates which would be impossible if all your clutch parts are stock.

if you have aftermarket plates and they are thicker than stock, this can cause this problem.
 
Opened up and had a look, nothing was really off and the clutch moved as it should.. adjusted the gear selector arms, and tried it. No difference except slightly less clutch drag.. still frozen above second gear, next thing i guess will be going through the layshaft and gear selector shafts.
 
Played around with some gun blue today!
Also threw away the rubber mounts for the handle bars, didnt go well with the apes..
And i found all the gears in the test ride after!! Turns out i had to maintain even throttle, hold pressure slightly on the gear lever with my foot, then clutch and they go in.. hopefully this will go away with some wear-in. Otherwise maybe I'll play around with shimming.
Another theory is this mineral running-in oil doesnt like gearboxes, but I'm changing it when I've set the piston rings anyways. Great success tonight!
 
You may want to check the adjustment on the throw out mechanism. If you didn't adjust it, you may have a bunch of slack in it from the previous setting.
 
jpmobius said:
You may want to check the adjustment on the throw out mechanism. If you didn't adjust it, you may have a bunch of slack in it from the previous setting.
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If by throw out you mean those little arms connecting the gear lever to the gear selector drum i did adjust it.
Or do you mean the clutch actuator arm?
Since im swedish i dont know all the English engine words..
 
The throw -out mechanism is the mechanism the clutch cable attaches to under the left side cover. If you replaced the clutch, or any components in the clutch, the stacked assembly of parts can be thicker than before. This would require adjusting the throw-out mechanism closer to the push rod to compensate for the extra thickness. That is the whole purpose of the adjustment - to move the whole throw-out mechanism into the right place so it can accommodate variances in the stacked clutch parts, as well as tolerances in the cases.

Different oils and different friction plate manufacturers can have a pretty big effect on clutches, so if the adjustment is ok, try some different oil. I have used Shell Rotela non-synthetic with good results in similar situations. It may be called something else in Sweden - it is Shell's commercial diesel oil.
 
Yea, that one's adjusted!
Also i had to fill it up with 4,5 liters of oil instead of the prescribed 3,7 before i had the correct level (engine perfectly horizontal of course) and now it feels a lot easier.
Also i sanded the plain plates a bit before assembly so i guess they will wear in a bit as well.
We have rotella here as well as a ton of other oils more suited for wet clutch engines,
Just dont want any friction modifiers or zinc additives when setting the piston rings!

Now I'm on to getting it road worthy for the running in bit so today i rebuilt the forks.
Some more work needed before i can do any redline pulls.. like working front brake.. :D
 
will it go in to 3rd/4th/5th if the engine is OFF? if you rop up the bike so the rear wheel is off the ground you should be able to slightly rotate the rear wheel enough to spin the shafts and change gears.....then if you think you got it into 3rd, give the kick start a jump and see if it moves and the rear wheel spins....repeat for 4th and 5th.....that will tell you if it's related to engine motion or clutch.
 
Yea it goes through the gears with the engine of, actually got it through the gears running last night, have to do it with even gas and slightly pressing the gear lever then blipping the clutch, so i guess its both engine speed and clutch drag. Not too worried now though as it changes quietly and will prob go away after break-in.
 
Clutch is getting better with more miles on it, not really sure why since its all correctly assembled, and all parts look almost new.
Should just work straight away..
Maybe soon its good enough to find neutral at standstill with engine running!
 
focusinprogress said:
glad to hear she's sorted.
Click to expand...
Yup. Your gears work a treat now!
Think i got the right ratio at once, ehat are the odds? Got a nice smooth cruise speed around 100 kph, but i think this one will handle 160kph marching speeds all day when run in. Not that i want to hang in that wind all day, built this for long smooth rides with a good deal of overtaking muscle and thats where im at now. Very happy!
 
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