Honda CB200 74' cafe/brat Australia

Looking good!


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Yep, but is it together yet?

Parts look great mate.

Thanks guys.

No not together yet. Currently in Tasmania surfing for 3 months so will be waiting for when I get back to QLD.

Odd place to go surfing, must be bloody cold down there at the moment.

Good to see you are still around.

Hey man, how are you locking down the back of your seat?

Thanks guys. Finally back into it after a epic road trip. Now I have 8 weeks at home to piece it back together, rebuild the engine and hopefully have it rolling so I can take it to Tasmania semi assembled to be finished.

1sttimer said:

Luke this is looking great! If you get a second, can you throw up some pictures of how you placed that battery tray in there to weld up? I.e some more pics of the pan area would be awesome. Personal interest

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I had a bike shop weld this tray into the lower part of the frame following the contour down to the square vertical column. It fits a antigravity battery and fuse box with ample room for the remaning wiring. Photo to come. Please let me know if you want more pictures of is 1st and sorry for the delay

Brodie said:

Odd place to go surfing, must be bloody cold down there at the moment.

Good to see you are still around.

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Thanks Broadie. Thats why I did it mate, solitude and brisk! Checked your builds too, looking beauty mate.

1sttimer said:

Hey man, how are you locking down the back of your seat?

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1st I have some photos to come for you with locking the seat down. The underside of the seat was modified with bolts then recovered. It was semi twisted but not having the seat tabs securing the seat works magic.

2 weeks prior to arriving home I ordered a bunch more parts. Nice little surprise opening, bit like Christmas



Spent the first day home finally piecing together. Rebuild the forks and triple tree. Tank and seat placements and rear swing arm. Im liking it so far although I'm contemplating changing the handlebars to a flatcar, hmm. Also, the pitted section of the upper forks will be covered in vinyl black or brown leather style wrap. Similar to what they use on road racing bicycle grips.







Shots of the battery tray for you 1st. Let me know if you would like anything else.







Now I have got as far and waiting for the rims to be laced, trued and rubberised its all focus on the engine rebuild and paint.



So far it looks quite good. However with 65000kms and fried gaskets I have a feeling it has been a long time since someone has been inside.

The side covers removed, head disassembled, valves removed and tomorrow it will be cracking the lower case for inspection and prep for blasting then painting.



I just need a night of reading before dismantling the clutch, filter and magneto. Bit scared but the inside components will remain intact unless I see anything that need replacing.

I am contemplating reboring and upsizing the piston seeing I am in there. Is it worth it?



Thanks guys. Cant wait for my next progress.

FYI, if you're just inspecting the bottom end, have the engine upside down when you remove the bolts from the lower case and remove it. Everything stays nicely in the top half and nothing pops out.

1sttimer said:

FYI, if you're just inspecting the bottom end, have the engine upside down when you remove the bolts from the lower case and remove it. Everything stays nicely in the top half and nothing pops out.

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Thanks 1st, great advice.

I am having trouble removing the oil filter cover and the starter magneto. I am unable to undo the filter top despite many attempts. As for the magneto, I have tried using the rear wheel spindle trick but no luck?





Any ideas?

lukeglasso said:

Thanks 1st, great advice.

I am having trouble removing the oil filter cover and the starter magneto. I am unable to undo the filter top despite many attempts. As for the magneto, I have tried using the rear wheel spindle trick but no luck?

Any ideas?

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For the oil filter cap, thread an M8 bolt into that hole. Can't remember the thread pitch but just use one of the m8 bolts that hold the upper and lower cases together. That's the correct pitch and what I used. It acts as a puller and the cap backs off and pops off.

For the rotor, just hit that nut with an impact wrench. Shouldn't even need to lock it up if you use that method.

Thanks 1st.

So the filter cap won't budge!!!!!! grrrr despite using a m8 case bolt and some serious force, just won't pop out. Even with a bit of heat, has me stumped.

As for the rotor, I removed the bolt. Didnt seem to loosen anything. Does it simply just slide off?

lukeglasso said:

Thanks 1st.

So the filter cap won't budge!!!!!! grrrr despite using a m8 case bolt and some serious force, just won't pop out. Even with a bit of heat, has me stumped.

As for the rotor, I removed the bolt. Didnt seem to loosen anything. Does it simply just slide off?

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For the rotor, take your back (pretty sure it's the rear) axle and thread it in. One (or both can't remember) of the axles is the same thread as that threaded hole in the middle of the rotor. What you do is thread the axle into the hole till it bottoms out, then take a dead blow hammer and smack the end of the axle (through the centerline of the rotor). Rotor will unseat and you just remove by hand.

Thanks mate. Will try in the morning and let you know how I go.

Garrrrrrrr! Is it this hard usually?

http://sendvid.com/6jxisodc

I have removed the cap with some opposing force with a spanner. Now into the filter itself I'm finding it difficult to undo the 4 lug bolt despite having the appropriate tool. Makes me wonder if it has even been undone previously!

Video above still shows the issue of my rotor

So the weird part here that I'm noticing from your video is that you're free spinning that rotor and the crank isn't moving...

There is a keyed slot on the ID of the rotor and a corresponding key on the crank that have to be lined up to get the rotor to seat. So in all honesty, I'm not sure how you're spinning the rotor like that assuming those keys are locked. Which makes me think it's almost off...

Success!!

You were right 1st thank you again. All I need to do was turn the rear axle 90 degrees more and it simply moved backwards. I laughed after what I was trying to do haha. As for the filter cap, that still was difficult but a little spanner action with counter force and I heard a small pop and was easily retrievable from there.

So there I am, case split, internals look intact and very pretty despite 65000 km's. Lots of photos to aid putting it back together once the case is cleaned, bored, sprayed and sealed.









One thing I did noticed was the upper and lower case does not have a gasket. I will need to look and see what happens with that. I did noticed some sort of rubber film around the joins.

Im now researching the method for bore and piston choice. It currently has N 25 marked on the rings so from what I understand these are normal original. Is it wise to just go up one size or can I jump to .5, .75 or 1.0? Also, can I use the same piston and just upgrade the rings and clips?

All upwards from here right

The bottom end doesn't get a gasket, just some no.1 permatex. As for the pistons, generally you go 1 size up unless there is scoring in the sleeve you need to get past, or in this case, that size isn't available. Yes you can go right to the 1 mm over, but the extra displacement isn't tremendously advantageous for the whole 3-5 cc you will gain.

jag767 said:

The bottom end doesn't get a gasket, just some no.1 permatex. As for the pistons, generally you go 1 size up unless there is scoring in the sleeve you need to get past, or in this case, that size isn't available. Yes you can go right to the 1 mm over, but the extra displacement isn't tremendously advantageous for the whole 3-5 cc you will gain.

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Thanks Jag. I saw another post using hondabond but the no.1 permatex is much easier to source from our local auto stores so thank you for that advice.

So the piston rings and sleeves are in relatively good condition. Bit of carbon build up on the piston head but sleeve's are not scored. Im wondering if the cc gain is only minor I would rather invest in better carb's. Is this correct?

lukeglasso said:

Thanks Jag. I saw another post using hondabond but the no.1 permatex is much easier to source from our local auto stores so thank you for that advice.

So the piston rings and sleeves are in relatively good condition. Bit of carbon build up on the piston head but sleeve's are not scored. Im wondering if the cc gain is only minor I would rather invest in better carb's. Is this correct?

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If you plan to reuse what's there, measure, measure, measure, and measure! You need to measure the sleeve, the piston, the rings, making sure all aren't beyond the service limit. If you have never done it it's a pain at first. To be honest, with the mileage I would replace the pistons, rings, pins, and bore it. Just a whole lot easier.