A CB360 Build - Lil' Sebastian Rides Again
- Thread starter el barto
- Start date
el barto
Been Around the Block
Lil word of warning to anyone doing front brake adjustments on a 360: with the minimum of force one of the edges of the slotted adjuster nut sheared off when I began messing with it. Literally one turn and it came off. Not sure if mine was unusually brittle but something to watch out for.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
There is a slot in the 'head' end as well, use a screwdriver about 1/2" wideas it's real shallow.
That bit breaking off is pretty common, the screw sticks in the alloy fork leg so even when locknut is completely loose you could have a problem. I usually run a 6mm tap through to clean up threads then use some sort of anti-seize.
I've been using non-setting Teflon plumbing sealer for years, seems to work well and better than many'normal' anti-seize compounds (it's also a couple of bucks more expensive than normal anti-seize stuff at around $7~8.00)
That bit breaking off is pretty common, the screw sticks in the alloy fork leg so even when locknut is completely loose you could have a problem. I usually run a 6mm tap through to clean up threads then use some sort of anti-seize.
I've been using non-setting Teflon plumbing sealer for years, seems to work well and better than many'normal' anti-seize compounds (it's also a couple of bucks more expensive than normal anti-seize stuff at around $7~8.00)
el barto
Been Around the Block
Hi guys.
Today I'm having some trouble getting the neutral light in the gauge to work. As you can see from the pics, I've got a line running from the neutral switch line up to the neutral light wire in the headlight cluster. Is this correct? I've tried a couple of configurations but can't get it right. Any help appreciated!
Today I'm having some trouble getting the neutral light in the gauge to work. As you can see from the pics, I've got a line running from the neutral switch line up to the neutral light wire in the headlight cluster. Is this correct? I've tried a couple of configurations but can't get it right. Any help appreciated!
Pretty sure the G/R Is a ground so there should be a hot wire going to the light (black) and then the G/R acts as a ground, so when the bike is in neutral the switch grounds out and turns the light on
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el barto said:
Yeah, that.
This is from the XL350 diagram but the wiring is basically reversed from what you'd think on a neutral light because of how the neutral switch works. The switch on the engine works as a switched ground. So you have a powered black wire that goes to the light (will test on with a test light) and then the Lg/R is a switched ground. When you put the bike in neutral there is a copper connector on the gearchange mechanism that contacts the neutral switch and grounds it out to the engine.
Side note I use that same gauge, I combined all the grounds from the backlight and 4 dummy lights into one wire and connected them all to ground at once, makes things a bit cleaner and I have had no problem with it.
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el barto
Been Around the Block
Thanks man. I tried it but no dice. Then the battery died so I'll coke back to it.
On another note, my kill switch is wired up backwards. Kill makes it fun and run kills it. What the hell. Can anyone explain this? I switched the wires around but it didn't make a difference.
On another note, my kill switch is wired up backwards. Kill makes it fun and run kills it. What the hell. Can anyone explain this? I switched the wires around but it didn't make a difference.
Did your neutral switch ever work? Hook up the light like that but take the end that's supposed to go to the neutral switch and ground it out to the frame somewhere. You sure the bikes in neutral? Test your hot wire going to the neutral light and make sure you got power.
Sounds like your killswitch has a messed up ground somewhere are you running OEM switches?
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Sounds like your killswitch has a messed up ground somewhere are you running OEM switches?
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el barto
Been Around the Block
adventurco said:
Yeah the neutral light worked with the stock setup. But before I replaced the harness it had a lil diode connected to the switch wire. Not sure whether that would have made a difference or not... I posted about it once so I'll try and find the thread.
And that's interesting about the kill switch ground. Why would it cause it to work backwards though? I'm running stock switches at the moment.
el barto said:
Didn't I say that a couple times up there?
el barto
Been Around the Block
Greetings friends. Bit more work on the bike today - mostly tidying bits up. Tested the compression, getting 150 on the left and 160 on the right which is better than I was expecting. I've yet to adjust the valves so hopefully it should improve.
Now bare with me here:
As I previously mentioned, I'm having trouble with the stock kill switch. I bought a replacement switch and have finally got around to installing it but (surprise surprise) I'm having some trouble. It's THIS switch, and according to Common Motor it should fit seamlessly into my harness. It doesn't. For a start, there's a green/red coming from the starter button - on Common Motor it says it's a starter safety switch, but the only green/red in the harness is a spare line. The only way I can get the starter button to work is if I put the green/red to black for power. Once this is done, the starter button works, but the kill switch doesn't (it'll let the bike run on off/run/off).
Common Motor also says that the brown/white should go to the LEFT hand control brown/white for the hi/low beam switch. But in the original switch wiring, there's a brown/blue that goes to brown/blue in the harness. Basically I've tried a bunch of configurations and none of them are working for me. Any help or suggestions are as always much appreciated.
Now bare with me here:
As I previously mentioned, I'm having trouble with the stock kill switch. I bought a replacement switch and have finally got around to installing it but (surprise surprise) I'm having some trouble. It's THIS switch, and according to Common Motor it should fit seamlessly into my harness. It doesn't. For a start, there's a green/red coming from the starter button - on Common Motor it says it's a starter safety switch, but the only green/red in the harness is a spare line. The only way I can get the starter button to work is if I put the green/red to black for power. Once this is done, the starter button works, but the kill switch doesn't (it'll let the bike run on off/run/off).
Common Motor also says that the brown/white should go to the LEFT hand control brown/white for the hi/low beam switch. But in the original switch wiring, there's a brown/blue that goes to brown/blue in the harness. Basically I've tried a bunch of configurations and none of them are working for me. Any help or suggestions are as always much appreciated.
