A CB360 Build - Lil' Sebastian Rides Again

[Sonreir]

Green/red should be grounded. In your setup, the solenoid should be connected to a black wire and a yellow/red wire. The yellow/red is what travels through the harness to the start button. Pressing the start button then grounds the solenoid through the green/red wire, activating it.

The brown/white wire is for the gauges and should also connect (though the harness?) to the ignition switch.

Black/red should carry power to the dimmer switch on the left control.

 

[adventurco]

The kill switch on the 360 basically takes the hot wire (black) and powers the connection to the ignition system (black/white). So you just need to trace what wires are coming from the kill switch on the control ( if the colors don't match up ) and hook em up accordingly. The "spare" green/red, that's your neutral wire, correct? If so this may be a built in safety switch so that the starter will not work unless the transmission is in neutral.

Edit: I'm not actually sure if the 360 came with a safety switch for neutral, I never ran mine with stock controls.


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[el barto]

Thanks Sonreir. I tried this out and got nothing. No gauge lights and no starter button.

The stock switch works perfectly except for the backwards kill switch. I checked that each wire is going where it's supposed to in the new switch and it all looks as it should. Confused.

Some photos of what I'm working with:

New switch wiring

Stock switch wiring

 

[el barto]

Inside new switch

 

[Sonreir]

Try this, from switch to harness:
Yellow/red -> yellow/red
Green/red -> ground (green in harness)
Black/red -> black
Black -> black
Black/white -> black/white
Brown/white -> dimmer switch for left control as well as gauge backlights and brown/white in harness

 

[el barto]

Will give it a go! Just to be clear tho, do you mean brown/white goes into the brown/white of the headlight cluster? In the stock setup it goes brown/blue to brown/blue in the left tank cluster so I THOUGHT it's work putting this new brown/white into the harness brown/blue.

Will try your one now!

 

[Sonreir]

Brown/blue from the left control is probably for the dimmer switch, so it will need power from the brown/white wire. The brown/white wires in the harness will also need power from the brown/white wire in the control, so you may need to splice a few things together to get it all working.

 

[adventurco]

Pretty sure ALL those wires go into the headlight bucket to connect to the rest of the harness. You should have a black/red on the harness as well.


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[el barto]

Sonreir: tried it out to no avail. I got power to the gauges but no starter button, also no headlight power.

Adventureco: I'm working to the diagram pictured below. Used this to set the stock switch up and it worked perfectly.

 

[Sonreir]

Pretty sure ALL those wires go into the headlight bucket to connect to the rest of the harness. You should have a black/red on the harness as well.


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Depends on the year.

If you do have a black/red in the harness, then you should also have a black/yellow on the left control.

 

[adventurco]

Can you get lights working by bypassing the switches entirely?


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[el barto]

Can you get lights working by bypassing the switches entirely?


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How do you mean?

 

[Sonreir]

How do you mean?

Hook the dimmer switch directly to a black wire in the harness.

 

[el barto]

Depends on the year.

If you do have a black/red in the harness, then you should also have a black/yellow on the left control.

No black/red in headlight cluster.

The harness matches the photo above exactly I think.

 

[adventurco]

How do you mean?

Take your headlight, connect the green directly to a ground, then jump the blue or white directly to any wire that's got power. If you can't get the lights to work with the switch bypassed your problem may not be in the switches at all. Just spitballing here.


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[el barto]

So with a few splices I've got it working. It definitely isn't plug and play as common motor suggests. At least not on my bike. The starter works but only when the green/red is plugged into power, not when it goes to ground.

The only thing I'm having trouble with now is the kill switch and that it doesn't work. I can fire the bike up on any of the kill switch settings. Any suggestions there?

 

[Sderbyshire]

If i recall correctly, and i am typing this in a bar in spain....., the kill switch works by interrupting the earth to the points.

So, if you can start the bike with the kill switch set to 'kill' then its an earthing problem ?

Hth

Steve

 

[el barto]

Hmm thanks Steve. Right now the kill switch goes to black/white for coils and black for power.

 

[Sonreir]

Do you have a multimeter? If so, let's test the switch and stop taking shots in the dark.

If my assumptions about the switch are correct, then the following should be true:

You should have continuity between the black/red and brown/white wire when the headlight switch is on. No continuity with it off.
Continuity between black and black/white with the kill switch set to run. No continuity if off.
Continuity between green/red and yellow/red with the start button pushed. No continuity, otherwise.

 

[el barto]

Do you have a multimeter? If so, let's test the switch and stop taking shots in the dark.

If my assumptions about the switch are correct, then the following should be true:

You should have continuity between the black/red and brown/white wire when the headlight switch is on. No continuity with it off.
Continuity between black and black/white with the kill switch set to run. No continuity if off.
Continuity between green/red and yellow/red with the start button pushed. No continuity, otherwise.

Yes good shout. Just testing the kill switch atm and can confirm continuity for both black and black/white with it on run and no continuity when it's off in either position.

Is there an obvious earth problem I should be looking out for with the kill switch? I'm stumped as to why it's not working when the multimeter shows continuity/no continuity.