Re: Shake the Box CL360
Denatured (as opposed to good-natured) alcohol. (Alkiehaul.)
adventurco said:Acetone! ;D
Denatured (as opposed to good-natured) alcohol. (Alkiehaul.)
adventurco said:Acetone! ;D
crazypj said:Personally I've always found real leather seat covers to be way more trouble than they are worth. Maybe OK on a 'show only' bike but in the real world they take too much 'looking after'
hurco550 said:Awesome, seat pan looks great buddy
Sonreir said:That looks pretty small. Battery might be possible, but you'd be cutting it closer than I would care to do.
For reference, the smallest battery we carry is 4.5" x 2.6" x 3.7" and would still need a bit of clearance to fit the cables and keep it from contacting anything.
adventurco said:I use a 5ah security system battery on my kick only 360. Haven't had any issues thus far and it starts up first kick just about every time. I have my headlight wired up so that I can disable it when I kickstart, but it's probably not even necessary since I've forgotten to turn it off a few times.
There was a thread in the last week or two on here and OP soldered together some single cell batteries to get his amperage needs. I can't find it at the moment, but that may be an option for you to fit in the toolbox.
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Tune-A-Fish said:Bodine (philips) fluorescent ballast has a 12V battery backup that charges off AC
Tune-A-Fish said:What about tool batteries like the M12 series
Sonreir said:It just depends on how close to the edge you like to live. ;D
hurco550 said:Cory is a rebel without a cause. He lives on the edge everyday. but in all seriousness, I would say that in our area, chances of sitting in traffic often are pretty slim. Flat, straight wide open road out here
adventurco said:I'd recommend laying up all your cloth at once, It will save you from sanding in between layers which is a huge pain in the arse but very necessary for proper adhesion. I usually lay up anything 4 layers and under all at once and never end up with any air pockets (with no vacuum bag or anything).
The only thing you need to make sure of if you do it this way is that your epoxy has a long enough working time so you can properly wet it out. I like to pour it on right out of the mixing can, let it soak in a bit and then squeegee off the excess. You can wet out a small piece of 3-4 layers to get a feel for the amount of epoxy you need. Just my .02, but it'll save ya some time if you do all your layers in one shot
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ridesolo said:My good friend must have some kind of autocorrect working on his computer. I believe he meant, "Rebel without a clue". He is right that I live on the edge, though; the edge of town, the edge of old age, the edge of hypertension, the edge of reason, the edge of sanity, the edge of poverty, the edge of baldness, the edge of caffeine withdrawal, the edge of the universe. ;D :
ridesolo said:Nice size. It's NiCad, though, not sure that would work well w/ the Honda charging system, would it? (Or is it Lithium that I'm thinking of?) I didn't download their full spec sheet so I'm not sure about the ah or if it's even given.
crazypj said:I've been giving this problem a lot of though. Pretty sure the 'solution' would be some extra circuitry and a warning light to tell you to rev engine over 3,000 to get charge rate up. Guess Matt is going to have to come up with something full of Zener diodes and capacitors ;D
I still haven’t used the 'super caps' bank I made a few years ago, It's light enough and small enough to fit in with a Lipo battery though so maybe I'll try it sometime? You could probably use a 3A/hr battery if you had idle set to 2200rom although it would need really frequent check to make sure it wasn't overheating (or even more added circuits to monitor things. )
I think I may just stay with the 7~8A/hr batteries, so much simpler :-*