Krazy Katana

If you use a race stand that holds up the axle / swing arm it's the same is doing it on the side stand (IE: the suspension is pre-loaded).
 
I didn't know you could do it on the sidestand, that would be sweet. I was looking at getting a race stand though, they're on sale at HF for $30.
Update:
I looked in the manual under the 750/1100 adjustment procedure and it says to use the sidestand. Good to know, since I always thought you had to do it with the rear wheel off the ground to be able to move it around.
 
There is less weight on rear wheel on sidestand compared to axle stand
 
Chain slack set.
Side note, I hate living in an apartment and I hate bitchy neighbors. Bought new spark plugs and spent about 60 seconds trying to start it when some *female dog* starts yelling at me out her window about how its so loud and annoying and I need to go somewhere else. Now I just want to get it running and sit below her window revving to about 10k or so, and see how she likes that...
 
That said, any tips on where to go? I'm getting fuel and spark, but apparently there's something off from the carbs to the cylinder. I set the air screws back to where they were when I took them apart, but I can't even get it to start after it died the other day. It won't even try.
 
For some reason when I put my carbs back together it did not want to run with the air screws in the stock position. [font=verdana, arial, helvetica, sans-serif]I set then to 2.5 turns out as suggested by many on katriders and it ran well.[/font] I am getting to the point where I will be starting up my Kat soon. I hope it picks up where I left off, I had it running pretty good before the complete bike tear down.
 
I set em all at 2.75 out, but I can re-do them to 2.5 and see. How do you guys get to the pilot screws? I bought a MotionPro Pilot adjuster, but the lip on it keeps it from seating right and consistently engaging.
 
I've made a list of all the possible reasons it won't start idle, based on what is in the Clymer:
  • Spark
Definitely good. Checked with new plugs.
  • Blocked Fuel Line
Fuel is getting to carbs. Couple turns on drain screws and fuel comes out, and I can see it flowing through the filters.
  • Low Compression
Need to get a Comp Tester for this.
  • Blown Head Gasket
Noticed it leaking oil out the side of motor since its been running.
  • Choke not working
Every now and then the rail gets a little snagged, but poking it gets it to operate just fine.
  • Throttle not working
Probably off on adjustment, but worked fine on the shakedown the other day. Re-routed correctly but the broken mount on the carb makes it a bit loose.
  • Stuck Float(s)
Floats are all good and float height is within range.
  • Carb Sync off
Pilots set to 2.5, will vac check but carbs were bench synced.
  • Clogged Filter
Filter appears fine and bike runs with it in place.
  • Valve Timing off
I already set valve timing and gap a couple months ago to factory specs.

I'll try to go through all of this tomorrow in order from easiest to hardest, don't wanna pull the carbs if all it was is a bad filter.
 
Have you had the bike running since you cleaned the carbs? Sometimes they just do't want to draw fuel in and you need to cover the filter / carb openings to draw up fuel (happened to me once on an FZ250 - would just crank all day but wouldn't fire until I blocked the air intake and it sucked fuel in).
 
Yeah, the day I put them back on it ran (like shit, but that's from the carbs out of sync) and I took it around the block to try to get it warmed up for the carb sync, but it died on me a block from home (wasn't liking idling) and wouldn't start, nor has it started since. no loud bangs or sudden death, just kinda dropped idle speed and died. Since then I've checked and the bowls are still filling, but it won't even try to start. Just starter turning.. even with new plugs in.
 
Did you set / adjust the floats wrong, perhaps? Y9ou may have fuel getting into the bowls, but if there isn't enough it won't run.

Tried starter fluid?
 
I just left em as they were and tried to make sure I didn't bend any of the adjusting tangs or whatever they're called.
And I need to go grab some starter fluid, realized I don't have any down here.
 
After setting the pilots back to about 2.5 (not sure how well the adjuster was turning the screw and couldn't quite see, so I'm just gonna assume it's close since it felt fine) the bike started, with a little starter fluid. Didn't sound like it was running on all 4, so I tapped pipes to see which wasn't firing. It was 4, which I remember not firing at one point before. Sure enough, no spark on 4. Checked 2 to see if it was the coil, but it had fat blue spark.Realized the wire going in to 4 was easy to slip out of the plug cap, so I trimmed the cable back a bit to expose wires and re-screwed the cap on. Went back to running like it had the other day, only idled on choke and definitely off. But, its better than it not starting.
My question is, can I sync the carbs with the choke on? I feel like that wouldn't give me an accurate reading on the gauge, but I can't get it to idle and playing with the idle adjustment screw doesn't seem to do anything.
 
Am I going about this carb sync wrong? I've been under the impression that the issue is getting the fuel/air right by adjusting the air jets, but the videos I've watched are all dealing with setting the linkages between the carbs. Also, all the bikes in the videos I've watched actually idle. :p I think I might need to pull them again to see if the floats are set right and do the bench sync so the butterflies are opening at the same time. Or is this not necessary since I didn't split them?
 
Update: Float heights are all within range, and carbs are bench sync'd. Idle issue might have come from the fact that the idle adjustment was so far backed off it wasn't even engaging the butterflies in #3 (main carb). Set it in something close to the middle of the range as far as engaging the butterflies.
 
There are 3 sync screws for 4 carbs. they are between pairs of carbs
Pilot (fuel/air) screws do nothing for sync, they adjust mixture only.
You do have the coils connected to correct 'cylinders'? 1.4 and 2.3 plus correct wiring for left and right sides?
If idle adjuster wasn't touching stop, you have at least one carb so far out of sync the butterfly is holding the others open
 
Yup. They were labeled with numbers on each plug wire. I'll check again though. The way I have it right now, left coil has 1/3 and right coil has 2/4. The plug wire on 4 popped out of the cap and didn't look like there was a lot of wire making contact, so I cut it back a little bit and screwed the cap back on. This might have been what was causing #4 to miss. When it first started having problems, 1-3 were firing but 4 was missing (headers on 1-3 were hot, 4 was barely warm). Last time I checked spark (last time I ran it) all 4 were getting spark.
I re-adjusted the idle adjuster, and did the bench sync on the butterflies. All 4 are opening and closing the same now.
I tried running it, would only start on starter fluid and didn't want to stay running. Even though I never touched the timing, I feel like I should give it a look over at this point anyways, just to be sure.
 
Shoot! Guess I shouldn't have trusted the PO with labeling things if he couldn't even put a fuel filter on right :mad:
Disregard this. I'M the idiot here. It's labeled and set up right. 1/4 2/3 all along. My memory isn't the best in case y'all couldn't tell ::)
PJ, which color goes to positive? I assumed the wires that are different color for each coil go to positive and common color goes to the negative of coil.
 
Timing is digital, I've never seen a bad pick up/signal generator unless bike has been dropped and it's smashed (reluctor is just a steel plate)
I'll have to look at wiring diagram but I'm pretty sure common (orange/white stripe) is positive (12v) and grounds through 'black box'. on blue or white (left and right coils)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

DTT Light or Dark

  • DTT Light
    • www.jadusmotorcycleparts.com
    www.lostapostle.ca/
    www.sparckmoto.com

    Spread the Love

    Back
    Top Bottom