Krazy Katana

I know the bike has been dropped on that side at least once, but everything looked fine when I was changing out the gasket.
On my diagram it doesn't say which side of the coil is positive, so I'm not sure how it should be set up.
 
The actual blade terminals are slightly different sizes.
Problem is, the 'small' side will easily get stretched onto the larger size
You'll probably need a 5x magnifier to see which terminal is slightly damaged
 
Swapped the coil wires and it started with a little persuasion and a petcock cleaning. Still doesn't want to idle below 3,000, will spray WD on the boots to check for leaks, or it could be the beat to shit exhaust from the PO dropping the bike.. In that case I have a line on a new full exhaust for a decent price. Gonna widen the headlight ear mount holes so I can get the Honda light on. Still need to design my gauge brackets.
 
Check throttle cable routing and the lock nuts are tight. When I bought mine the nut had unscrewed, jammed cable and made it 'idle' around 10K :eek:
Could also be a pilot jet problem, at 3K it's running on main jet
 
If its the throttle cable that would make sense... The cast in mount on the carb is snapped off so it's held on by some safety wire. Really ghetto... Guess new carb/carbs is on the list. There's a salvage yard in fresno that has a Katana 600 that was wrecked but engine and carbs looked fine. Might be time to make another trip out there to grab them.
Could and exhaust leak cause a lack of idle too? The exhaust on here now is beat pretty bad.
Also: went for a ride yesterday, at least 30 miles or so. When I get on it hard, the bike seems like its slipping a bit. Would this have something to do with the friction discs and such being worn or transmission issues?
 
Could be something as simple as adjustment, cable needs to be a bit slack (at least 20mm movement at ball end of lever)
It is adjusted properly at the sprocket cover end? Adjustment is similar to CB360 Slack cable off pretty much all the way at both ends then do the screw adjuster under rubber cap
 
I had it adjusted how you said a month or so ago, but it also kind of dragged with clutch pulled in, which it doesn't anymore. I'll adjust it again tomorrow and see if that helps.
 
Oh, check cable routing, clutch and throttle cables are on same side of frame, it's a real PITA if they are in wrong places
 
Throttle cable is being pinched by the bolt on the headlight ear. Will fix, since its pretty easy. I think it might be time for a new clutch cable though, doesn't seem like it moves as freely in the case as it should.
They are? On mine the clutch goes down the left side next to the engine, but the throttle just goes through the middle above the coils to the carbs.
 
Throttle cable should go on left side of steering head before going between coils and OVER the tank mounting bar.
Choke cable can go under bar, even though Suzuki routes it over. I find it works better 'my way' ;D
 
Sounds good. Right now the cable doesn't cross over the head at all. What mounting bar are you talking about though? All there is for the front tank mount is a rubber U-shaped part that is on the back of the head where the frame rails come together.
 
There should be a bar about 1" diameter across the frame to support center section of tank, two little brackets with rubber bumpers on it. Because it unbolts, people either forget to re-fit it or put it on upside down. You have captive nuts welded into frame top rails for 8mm bolts. Frame is pretty strong but the cross piece prevents any bowing when you brake real hard (or come down hard from a wheelie)
Strain on steering head can easily reach 3/4 ton under braking, that tends to try and straighten the 'bow' around cylinder head
 
Yeah, mine doesn't have that. This is what mine looks like. Pic is from when I set the valves.
 

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And I assume this is what you're talking about... Guess I'll make a trip out to Fresno sometime to steal parts from their Katana.
 

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Yep, that's the missing bit
Throttle cable should be coming down on left side of steering head
You have the 'slower' motor with screw adjusters, red line is 500rpm less than shim under rocker arm (11,000 instead of 11,500rpm)
 
It may be the slower one but I'm fine with it! I like this as my first inline-4 600. Not too crazy like newer 600s.
Could a leaky head gasket be keeping it from idling? It's leaking around the #4 cylinder, dry on the head but where it meets the cylinder block, its wet and from there oil is on the front of the motor, frame, and it makes it back to my foot and the exhaust when I'm riding. I remember #4 wasn't firing completely before, could be due to bad head gasket letting oil in #4?
edit: looked in troubleshooting section of clymer, it said bad idle could be caused by leaking head gasket. Looks like that might be my problem.
 
It's a simple enough job, good thing about Katana's, head can easily be removed in frame (GSXR's can be done but lot more 'fiddly')
Usually when it's leaking that bad though it's the 'O' rings on drain tubes on front of engine. Oil feed to head is through external pipes on back of motor. You probably need to change gasket, 'O' rings and the compression washers. The ones through rocker cover can only be used twice, they leak after that (overtightening isn't a good idea to stop leak) Thr rocker cover flat 'rubber' washers also get compressed and leak. Top end set is pretty expensive from what I remember one of the aftermarket sets is made by same people who supply Suzuki. You'll have to find the 'Made in Japan' one
 
I'm looking at just getting Suzuki parts, from what I've added up it should be somewhere in the $150 range to replace the gasket itself, all the o-rings that go with it, gaskets for the tensioner, and for the rocker cover.
 
Aftermarket isn't a whole lot cheaper for a good set, around $145 last time I looked
 
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