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A pile of parts were ordered including new circlips, rings, a set of kibblewhite valves and seals, base and head gasket, etc.

I ended up replacing the thermostat since the PO had deleted it for some reason that is beyond me.

The whole top end went out to a local machine shop that builds racing motors. Cylinder and piston clearance measured within spec, and the original cross hatch could even still be seen on the barrel.

Machinist surfaced the mating surfaces between the head and cylinder. They pulled vacuum on the head and cylinder,  skimmed about .003Ē off between the two surfaces, cut in the new Kibblewhite valves and shimmed the valves. I need to pop the valve cover off and check the clearances before I run it.

The last few months Iíve been building a new kitchen in our house from scratch and coming up to the home stretch on that project. So I hope to get back on this as soon as thatís finished.

Currently, the motor is back together, just needs the carbs installed and itís ready for a test fire.
After the water pump is done, I changed the oil and test ran the bike again just to get it warmed up. It looked ok in the OIF tank but draining out came the same frothy mess.

So into the motor we go. Itís a pretty straightforward motor and game apart pretty easily. Once I got the head off, it was pretty clear that the culprit was the head gasket.
So I cleaned the carbs and fired her up to get the oil circulating so I could drain it and see whatís what. No bueno. Looked like a melted Frosty mixed with soot and poo.

I decided to start with the simpler solution and replace the water pump shaft and seal, despite the fact that the maintenance records said it was done fairly recently. The water pump seal is basically a 20k mile maintenance item on these motors and from everything I can tell is the only crux of the Rotax lump.

Trackers / My Harley tracker
« Last post by oelkuch on Today at 02:21:04 »
My 09 xr1200 tracker   with stage 1 intake and exhaust. I will be making some changes soon.

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Restorations / 1997 BMW F650 ST Bluebird - Repair, maintain, ride.
« Last post by advCo on Today at 02:17:10 »
Over the winter I picked up this F650 ST. I had been wanting a newer, more reliable bike that I can use as a daily while I wrench on the vintage stuff. The seller disclaimed that it had some milky oil, and after doing some research on these bikes I narrowed down the possibilities to a faulty water pump seal, or a blown head gasket.

Once I got the old girl home, she looked pretty clean. About 50k miles and the motor should be barely broken in. The bike actually included all the original paperwork, and the maintenance records since new.

Besides the obvious coolant leak issue, a few cosmetic issues, leaking fork seals and some pretty thin brake pads will all get addressed.
Bob and Chop / Re: 1980 SR250 Cafe Bob Build
« Last post by Psycrow on Today at 01:13:53 »
To me that thing screams tracker...;)


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Cafe Racers / Re: 75 CB360 - bad omen "yatagarasu" build
« Last post by MiniatureNinja on Today at 01:03:54 »
I had a rear brake lock up at speed on a TR6C chopper. NOT FUN! BTW, I think that color is perfect.

I talked to Isaac at Speedy Siegl Racing (where I got the brake stay from) and told him what happened, I assured him it wasn't his fault. But I told him because the brake stay actually jacked into the road, spiking the rear of the bike up before the drum housing rotated enough for it t be out of the way (also shattering my carbon fiber actuation rod)

the brake stay has some scuffs, but it's not bent, it's perfectly straight and this sucker is TOUGH!
super light weight, and in my humble opinion - they look 10x better than the other offerings out there
I had an 82' CB750F project at one point but I passed it on.  I'd have it back if I could.  I really dig the saddlebag setup on yours. Make it your own Jimbo.
Bob and Chop / Yaya another Virago build.....
« Last post by Psycrow on Today at 00:23:02 »
Well if trying to get my XT500 finished wasnt enough a 1983 XV500 Virago dropped into my garage .... I has no title and its a non runner which are the 2 reasons it was given to me for the significant sum of ... So Im not doing to much yet till I can title it... So far so good with the DMV... They gave me some paperwork to fill out and didnt say NO out right so I guess well see.
Everyone does Cafe's with these bikes so its been over done to death and since im getting a little older Im not intrested in rearsets and clipons... So im going to bobber it.. .. Sorta...current plan is to ditch the subframe and fab a new one to support a short bobberish tail...kinda 1/2 way between cafe and bobber height, rear mudguard hugging the rear tire and supported on the rear swingarm... Roads are shit here so rear mono suspension is staying... Keeping origional front forks and rims for now... May try to use the stock tank for now..... Mid controls are staying and horn handlebars have already been ditched...yuk... Threw on some super bike bars and controls I had laying around for now but I think ill be going with a straight drag bar in the stock  risers.. Using the new truimph bobber as inspiration...
So far I have no fire... Solenoid clicks when the starter button is depressed but thats it.. Starter motor turns over the engine when jumpered to directly so Im guessing there is a fault in a ground somewhere. I have read that these bikes have a poor main earth from the battery ro begin and this one looks like its been monkied with... Old Fuse block has been replaced with modern weaterproof blade fuses... They all look good but maybe connections are suspect... Ill start with the ground strap and the wire directly to the starter... Already know the carb slides are stuck and will need pulled and completely overhauled... Just trying to get the starter going and spark at this point.

Here she sits... No pics of the horn handlebars sorry....


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Bodywork / Painting / Plating / Re: Make/mold a fiberglass full fairing?
« Last post by Psycrow on Jul 18, 2018, 23:29:54 »
Im not an expert but if done some glasswork... If I were you I would simply use a good car wax and wax the heck out of that duct tape and start laying up... Yea you will have more work getting the farring smooth but laying up thick and an random orbital sander will get most of it done...bondo to finish.. If you were making a mold so you could make mulitiple farrings then I would agree with the previous posters .. Its a one off and your just learning... If it dosent turn out the way you wanted you can adjust your method..

I say it wont matter much .. If you dont use a mold and gel coat your looking at alot of finish work anyways.


My 2 cents...

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