Recent content by Gweenz

I like to see a picture of that if you have one. The current mount is just a hack, it's using the stock gauge mount but I modified it. I do like the angle that it's at though, its pointing directly at my eyes when I'm riding it.

Wow, I totally forgot I started this thread. Hard to keep up on these when you live in Wisconsin without a heated garage. The weather has been beautiful this spring and I've had plenty of opportunities to work on the project. Time to get everyone caught up through the magic of pictures...

Issues with the kickstart on my CB360: When I put the bike in gear (1st gear), pull the clutch, and move the bike back and forth *sometimes* the kickstart lever will move or rotate slightly. Now, it's my understanding that this should not happen, the kickstart shouldn't be connected to the...

That helps a ton. I was going by the picture and it was confusing me. I'll try this out later and report back, thanks!

Brake lever spring, sorry for the confusion. Under "Brake Pedal" here it's part #17: http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1975-honda-motorcycle-cb360t/o/m9224#sch399154

I'm reassembling my rear brake on my 75 CB360 and can't figure out how the rear brake spring goes on. I have the parts fiche picture but that doesn't explain it very well. Could someone take a picture of their working rear brake?

Thanks for the reply. Manual is Clymer's. Here are pictures, sorry they are blurry but it's cold out there! You can see the ball bearing is still in place and the adjuster nut is at maximum slack. The adjuster at the handle is also set up correctly.

This has been killing me. I know this has been asked before and I've read many threads on it but I just can't get this figured out. I replaced my cb360's fraying stock clutch cable with one from motion pro but I can't get the clutch to engage correctly no matter what I try. I have the manual...

The top triples from my 72 cl350 and 75 cb360 were exactly the same, if that helps.

This was true for many 70's bikes. To complicate things, sometimes they are titled by the vin on the motor.

Yup I had to modify the control housings to get them to fit on my clip ons (cb360). I used a dremel to cut away enough of the housing, on the inside of the lower half. It might take a while to get it just right so that the housings "cinch" up nicely. The left side one is the tricky one...

I literally just finished rebuilding mine on my 75 cb360. NOT something I want to do again. I had to modify a normal pair of snap ring pliers so it would fit down in there. That snap ring was also rusted in, so I had to soak it for a few days in penetrating oil. Besides that stupid snap...

I'm not confident about it because I wouldn't do it, because there's no point. Of course a functioning caliper won't leak. As we all know, everything on these bikes is 100% reliable and doesn't break. Right? Right? And it's certainly not possible to get a couple drips on it (which is...

I would just buy some caliper paint. It's designed to be durable, remember that brake fluid is some of the nastiest stuff out there. You can buy it in small amounts and apply it with a brush. Your caliper most likely has a rubber seal around the brake pad.

I *think* he's talking about the bolt in the bottom that threads to the damper rod, not the drain hole. I didn't notice he said it's a phillips bolt. Who knows what someone used, it could be a wood screw. Personally I would try to ez out it first. If it's stripped an impact wrench won't do...