100% digital system

[scioncb450]

I am finally getting to the point of my motorcycle project (71' cl450 k4 cafe) where I am ready to wire this beast. ??? .. I want to do everything led, blinkers, headlight, tail light. I wont be running a starter so my battery can be as minimalist as possible. (plus it will be lighter ). I am concerned, however, that my OEM stator/alternator will not properly maintain a Lithium type battery due to the inconsistent output voltage. Is there a way to rectify this problem? Another question, that some of you may be able to help with, is where can i find a 6.5" Led headlight that will fit in my stock CL headlight bucket?


Thanks

 

[Sonreir]

Stator can be a concern, yes. The problem isn't so much the stator as the regulator/rectifier.

LI-ION variants are sensitive to voltage levels, but more at the high end and less at the low end (though both are bad). Over voltage will kill a LI-ION in short order, so you should definitely replace the R/R you have with a more modern option. The one on our site works well for LI-ION.

For the low end, the main concern is running the battery down too low. Too low on LI-ION means a dead battery. Permanently.

The problem with the Honda twins of the 60s and 70s is that aside from having voltage levels too high while they're running, they also don't put out enough power when they're idling. You don't usually start making usable wattage until 3000 RPM (with the stock setup) or closer to 2000 RPM with our R/R.

You have a few options. LED swap all around will definitely help. The move to a Rick's Hotshot stator will also help. The cheapest and best option is just to avoid idling it for long periods of time. Avoid city riding and traffic jams, if you can help it. Don't leave it warming up in your driveway for 15 minutes, etc.

For the LED headlight, it's very unlikely that you'll find a sealed beam version, but if you do, please let us all know. You'll probably have better luck buying a new bucket and a separate bulb (which we also have for sale on our site).

 

[scioncb450]

Stator can be a concern, yes. The problem isn't so much the stator as the regulator/rectifier.

LI-ION variants are sensitive to voltage levels, but more at the high end and less at the low end (though both are bad). Over voltage will kill a LI-ION in short order, so you should definitely replace the R/R you have with a more modern option. The one on our site works well for LI-ION.

For the low end, the main concern is running the battery down too low. Too low on LI-ION means a dead battery. Permanently.

The problem with the Honda twins of the 60s and 70s is that aside from having voltage levels too high while they're running, they also don't put out enough power when they're idling. You don't usually start making usable wattage until 3000 RPM (with the stock setup) or closer to 2000 RPM with our R/R.

You have a few options. LED swap all around will definitely help. The move to a Rick's Hotshot stator will also help. The cheapest and best option is just to avoid idling it for long periods of time. Avoid city riding and traffic jams, if you can help it. Don't leave it warming up in your driveway for 15 minutes, etc.

For the LED headlight, it's very unlikely that you'll find a sealed beam version, but if you do, please let us all know. You'll probably have better luck buying a new bucket and a separate bulb (which we also have for sale on our site).

All good Info

I will look into your site and hopefully find what I need.

About the headlight, I am not that concerned with needing a sealed replacement, but i will let you know if i find one LOL. I am having a hard time finding any modern headlight that fits the CL bucket honestly..

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Brenden @ http://www.common-motor.com/honda-cb-headlight-lens-bulb sells the lamp assy that fits in a 6.5 inch Honda ring. I have this. A little pricey, but the lens is DOT approved and glass.....well made and the correct light pattern for a motorcycle. I replaced the 35w/35w halogen that Brenden ships with it and used an H4 LED instead. Sonreir did not sell them at the time, so I took my chances on E-bay. My LED has a fan, but it is working well, and brighter than a 55/60 watt. The headlight is very white during the day and stands out with the LED bulb. I had to cut out the back of my headlight bucket for clearance of the bulb heatsink, but only the back, the "tunnel" remained and will keep most of the elements off the bulb.

 

[scioncb450]

Is there anything i can do on the ignition side to slim down the whole electrical system?

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Ignition system is pretty basic. Coils are already the lowest draw. Unless you want to spend $700 or more for a magneto type system ( Germans make one) there is no easy way to reduce electric ignition load.

 

[Sonreir]

Probe Engineering out of California makes an electronic programmable ignition for the 360. I haven't looked at it too closely, but assuming the dwell is programmable, this can reduce your electric load as well. Probably not by too much though.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

Probe Engineering out of California makes an electronic programmable ignition for the 360. I haven't looked at it too closely, but assuming the dwell is programmable, this can reduce your electric load as well. Probably not by too much though.

The probe unit allows Idle Timing adjustment and rev limiter set point. No dwell adjustment. I have the instructions. If Pamco had not come out with the e-advance unit, I would of sprung for the probe. I have all the literature for it.

I bet it draws slightly more...couple of milliwatts, but still....

Magneto/CDI conversion is the only way to liberate the electrical system from the ignition system, imho.

 

[Sonreir]

Converting to CDI should be pretty simple.

Get your hands on a 12V GY6 CDI and coil (you'll need two, one for each cylinder) and hook it up to your bike.

Pinout for the CDI is attached as well as a circuit to use your points as the switching mechanism.

In the circuit, the "short to ground" is your points and the load is pin 1 on the CDI.

 

[Sonreir]

Forgot to mention... R1 is 10KΩ and R2 is 100KΩ in that second diagram.