03rangerxlt
Been Around the Block
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (clutch and primary are done)
i absolutley love this thread!
i absolutley love this thread!
1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (1000 miles and more)
- Thread starter swan
- Start date
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (clutch and primary are done)
Thanks 03rangerxlt!
Minor update, The Engine Store could not turn my sprockets with their equipment so I took them to River Valley Tool and Machine and they will have them done next week.
Another step towards completion: my NOS Smiths chronometric speedometer dial just arrived! Not a replica, but the real deal original from Smiths. Now I can send my speedometer in to Nisonger for a rebuild.
My original speedo
Thanks 03rangerxlt!
Minor update, The Engine Store could not turn my sprockets with their equipment so I took them to River Valley Tool and Machine and they will have them done next week.
Another step towards completion: my NOS Smiths chronometric speedometer dial just arrived! Not a replica, but the real deal original from Smiths. Now I can send my speedometer in to Nisonger for a rebuild.
My original speedo
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (clutch and primary are done)
Thanks DreadRock!
Chain update: River Valley Tool and Machine finished turning my sprockets and I installed a 520 O-ring chain. $50 for machining and $65 for a Parts Unlimited chain. I opted not to buy the fancy DID x-ring chain, mostly because I do not like gold anodized metal which would look wrong on a period restoration, Dave K and Gordo from the Britbike.com forum were very helpful with this process, thanks guys! After doing the research, I believe it is worth the time and expense to upgrade to a modern chain. Here is what I did:
Before
After
Used and new thinned sprocket
The sprockets were turned to .227" thickness and material removed from the outboard side. My machinist reported the transmission sprocket was extremely hard to cut (Emgo, made in Taiwan) and the rear sprocket was easier (Made in the UK). He matched the angle of the slight bevel at the top of the outboard teeth to the angle on the inboard side. The chain is riveted so I ground off one side of a pin, used my normal chain break tool, cut the chain to 98 links and used a clip type link to hold it together. The alignment is perfect and I had no problems with clearance at the gearbox or anywhere else.
I reinstalled the primary and clutch, adjusted the primary chain, tightened the gearbox and then adjusted the rear chain so there is the correct amount play. One step closer to a running bike. It was a beautiful weekend and I was outside riding and wrenching the Triton, hunting morel mushrooms but did not make the time to polish the outer primary cover. Soon...
Chain links:
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=261491&page=all
http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm
http://victorylibrary.com/brit/chain-c.htm
Thanks DreadRock!
Chain update: River Valley Tool and Machine finished turning my sprockets and I installed a 520 O-ring chain. $50 for machining and $65 for a Parts Unlimited chain. I opted not to buy the fancy DID x-ring chain, mostly because I do not like gold anodized metal which would look wrong on a period restoration, Dave K and Gordo from the Britbike.com forum were very helpful with this process, thanks guys! After doing the research, I believe it is worth the time and expense to upgrade to a modern chain. Here is what I did:
Before
After
Used and new thinned sprocket
The sprockets were turned to .227" thickness and material removed from the outboard side. My machinist reported the transmission sprocket was extremely hard to cut (Emgo, made in Taiwan) and the rear sprocket was easier (Made in the UK). He matched the angle of the slight bevel at the top of the outboard teeth to the angle on the inboard side. The chain is riveted so I ground off one side of a pin, used my normal chain break tool, cut the chain to 98 links and used a clip type link to hold it together. The alignment is perfect and I had no problems with clearance at the gearbox or anywhere else.
I reinstalled the primary and clutch, adjusted the primary chain, tightened the gearbox and then adjusted the rear chain so there is the correct amount play. One step closer to a running bike. It was a beautiful weekend and I was outside riding and wrenching the Triton, hunting morel mushrooms but did not make the time to polish the outer primary cover. Soon...
Chain links:
http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=261491&page=all
http://www.gizmology.net/sprockets.htm
http://victorylibrary.com/brit/chain-c.htm
MotorbikeBruno
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
I love every update ;D
I love every update ;D
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
A micro update: My new main switch and Miller style horn and dip switch arrived from the Classic Bike Shop LTD in the UK, bought through ebay seller bsa111. The horn button broke off when I pressed it for there is only a small spot weld holding it in place. I contacted the seller and they are shipping a replacement. Hopefully the replacement last longer than one push. Another good seller, thank you Kerrie !
A micro update: My new main switch and Miller style horn and dip switch arrived from the Classic Bike Shop LTD in the UK, bought through ebay seller bsa111. The horn button broke off when I pressed it for there is only a small spot weld holding it in place. I contacted the seller and they are shipping a replacement. Hopefully the replacement last longer than one push. Another good seller, thank you Kerrie !
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
I know I will catch flak for this, but I went with new OEM valves, guides and springs instead of modern manufacturers' valves and guides. My reasoning is this is only a temporary cylinder head and I was having trouble finding a local or regional machinist willing to do this, (they wanted my to be find the blanks, parts numbers etc) and shipping it out to be done was expensive. So, I went with a quick, easy and less expensive solution by using OEM parts and I dropped my cylinder head off at The Engine Store of Winona today to have the guides installed, seats cut and valves ground in. Next year, I want to have a new DBD cylinder head, modern valve train and an Amal MKII carb on my Goldie. ($2000, yikes)
News valves and guides, ancient cosmoline.
For now I am waiting for my wiring harness, rebuilt speedo and front fender to arrive, still need to rebuild the mag, buy a chainguard, sidestand and fuel lines . Also, I still need to decide if I am going with a 6 or 12 volt dynamo and then buy the correct battery, bulbs and horn. Getting closer to finished bike....
I know I will catch flak for this, but I went with new OEM valves, guides and springs instead of modern manufacturers' valves and guides. My reasoning is this is only a temporary cylinder head and I was having trouble finding a local or regional machinist willing to do this, (they wanted my to be find the blanks, parts numbers etc) and shipping it out to be done was expensive. So, I went with a quick, easy and less expensive solution by using OEM parts and I dropped my cylinder head off at The Engine Store of Winona today to have the guides installed, seats cut and valves ground in. Next year, I want to have a new DBD cylinder head, modern valve train and an Amal MKII carb on my Goldie. ($2000, yikes)
News valves and guides, ancient cosmoline.
For now I am waiting for my wiring harness, rebuilt speedo and front fender to arrive, still need to rebuild the mag, buy a chainguard, sidestand and fuel lines . Also, I still need to decide if I am going with a 6 or 12 volt dynamo and then buy the correct battery, bulbs and horn. Getting closer to finished bike....
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
In my mostly uninformed opinion, what is wrong with new OEM parts? They lasted for many many years on the bike originally, and they help keep a rare bike stock. Seems perfectly logical to me especially if you're going to put on a hi-po head and carb in the future. If you ever sell it, you could put the stock head back on and get extra value from it being full of NOS parts.
For your own sanity, I would go with 12 volt electrics. I've always stuck with 12 volts on British cars and have done better for doing so. Does choosing 12 volts affect the originality and value of the bike any?
I've really enjoyed following this thread - thank you for taking the time to share the build with us.
swan said:
In my mostly uninformed opinion, what is wrong with new OEM parts? They lasted for many many years on the bike originally, and they help keep a rare bike stock. Seems perfectly logical to me especially if you're going to put on a hi-po head and carb in the future. If you ever sell it, you could put the stock head back on and get extra value from it being full of NOS parts.
For your own sanity, I would go with 12 volt electrics. I've always stuck with 12 volts on British cars and have done better for doing so. Does choosing 12 volts affect the originality and value of the bike any?
I've really enjoyed following this thread - thank you for taking the time to share the build with us.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
The BSA racing geeks suggest RD titanium springs, Kibblewhite valves, guides and other high end and expensive parts. Crazy PJ, you are right I am not going to race it but I plan to sell the head to pay for part of the big, beautiful and modern cast DBD head from Pearson or ABSAF next year. My head is smaller and offer less power than a proper DBD, but I will get by with this for now. 2K is a lot of money and I can buy, build and restore a used Honda CB for that kind of money....
The dynamo (generator) part of this bike's magdyno was original 6 volt. There are 12 volt conversion kits which allow for a higher watt bulbs in the tail and headlight. With all the deer and animals in my area, I need all the light I can get at night.
Glad people are still reading and enjoying this thread after 46 pages of my babble.
The BSA racing geeks suggest RD titanium springs, Kibblewhite valves, guides and other high end and expensive parts. Crazy PJ, you are right I am not going to race it but I plan to sell the head to pay for part of the big, beautiful and modern cast DBD head from Pearson or ABSAF next year. My head is smaller and offer less power than a proper DBD, but I will get by with this for now. 2K is a lot of money and I can buy, build and restore a used Honda CB for that kind of money....
The dynamo (generator) part of this bike's magdyno was original 6 volt. There are 12 volt conversion kits which allow for a higher watt bulbs in the tail and headlight. With all the deer and animals in my area, I need all the light I can get at night.
Glad people are still reading and enjoying this thread after 46 pages of my babble.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
Ah, I see.
I though you had the DBD head when you posted pictures of the fin repairs.
I would go 12V, less voltage losses through wiring (percentage wise, so more efficient)
Ah, I see.
I though you had the DBD head when you posted pictures of the fin repairs.
I would go 12V, less voltage losses through wiring (percentage wise, so more efficient)
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
It turns out my 1962 Gold Star DBD34 came with an earlier and smaller DB head and Amal 389/004 carb. I am going to run it in this setup and see how she goes. I pick it Friday from my machine shop and can then finish the motor assembly. Here is consensus on my on the Britbike forum. http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=410414&page=1
It turns out my 1962 Gold Star DBD34 came with an earlier and smaller DB head and Amal 389/004 carb. I am going to run it in this setup and see how she goes. I pick it Friday from my machine shop and can then finish the motor assembly. Here is consensus on my on the Britbike forum. http://www.britbike.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=410414&page=1
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
I remember reading you had something of a Bitsa (It's BSA = Bits Stuck Anywhere, not, bloody sore arse) ;D
Thanks for the link, some very good advice there.
I would plug the holes , angle drill new ones at 65mm (plus re-face intake flange) then raise port roof and fit 1/2"~3/4" spacer
I really don't know too much about DBD, way out of my price range.
I do have a couple of early 50's (plunger) A10's though
BTW, I have a Pontiac 400.
You can get Comp Cams 'beehive springs with 1.700" fitted length
Around 135lbs seat pressure (I'll have to look up max lift pressure)
I personally think they are the greatest non-electrical engine improvement in the last 40+ yrs
I remember reading you had something of a Bitsa (It's BSA = Bits Stuck Anywhere, not, bloody sore arse) ;D
Thanks for the link, some very good advice there.
I would plug the holes , angle drill new ones at 65mm (plus re-face intake flange) then raise port roof and fit 1/2"~3/4" spacer
I really don't know too much about DBD, way out of my price range.
I do have a couple of early 50's (plunger) A10's though
BTW, I have a Pontiac 400.
You can get Comp Cams 'beehive springs with 1.700" fitted length
Around 135lbs seat pressure (I'll have to look up max lift pressure)
I personally think they are the greatest non-electrical engine improvement in the last 40+ yrs
Basement rat
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
I'm seeing lots about those springs all over Power Block TV.
I'm seeing lots about those springs all over Power Block TV.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
I'm actually quite glad that the existing cylinder head is going to get a season's airing. You're about to experience two wonderful things.............you'll feel, smell and hear and touch how this bike ran when she was in her prime....(sans modification if you will), and then you'll get to feel the improvement that the DBD head brings to the proceedings. When you think about it, not too many people get to experience both of those things. Usually, a motheared bike is subjected to all manner of changes, and the person doing the work seldom gets to indulge in such an undiluted form of time travel.
I am madly envious of you and your Goldie..........but I'm not in the slightest bit jealous......if that makes sense. I am just enjoying the journey so much!
I'm actually quite glad that the existing cylinder head is going to get a season's airing. You're about to experience two wonderful things.............you'll feel, smell and hear and touch how this bike ran when she was in her prime....(sans modification if you will), and then you'll get to feel the improvement that the DBD head brings to the proceedings. When you think about it, not too many people get to experience both of those things. Usually, a motheared bike is subjected to all manner of changes, and the person doing the work seldom gets to indulge in such an undiluted form of time travel.
I am madly envious of you and your Goldie..........but I'm not in the slightest bit jealous......if that makes sense. I am just enjoying the journey so much!
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
Thanks BT! Crazypj, I went with stock springs.
Minor updates: Good news and bad news, four steps forward and one back... Step forward, my new proper front Clubman fender and stays arrived and are installed.
Much better
Step backward: my machinist installed the new exhaust valve guide but the new inlet valve guide is too small (it is standard diameter ) so I need to find or have made an oversized inlet guide (65-1595). The old guide is .008" larger in diameter than the NOS guide. My machinist suggested knurling it and using Loctite, but I said "no" and will find another solution. Looks like Phil Pearson has them on his website and I will give him a ring in the morning. If he does not, then??? Sources or ideas anyone? Have one turned for me? Where? If this was easy, everyone would be doing it.
Another step forward, broken down, cleaned and inspected the dynamo on a rainy Saturday. I'll put it back together and bench test it.
Set valve clearances and timed my welder's Honda CB750 while he welded up the standard slot on my extra kick start quadrant. We turned it on the lathe and I ran out of time and still need to mill a new slot 60 degrees clockwise so that the kick start arm is aligned in the one o'clock position and is out of the way of my rearsets. Will try to get in the shop tomorrow to finish the quadrant.
My Honda tuning worked well, so well that two squad cars chased him down on his way back to the shop after test driving it...oops...
Thanks BT! Crazypj, I went with stock springs.
Minor updates: Good news and bad news, four steps forward and one back... Step forward, my new proper front Clubman fender and stays arrived and are installed.
Much better
Step backward: my machinist installed the new exhaust valve guide but the new inlet valve guide is too small (it is standard diameter ) so I need to find or have made an oversized inlet guide (65-1595). The old guide is .008" larger in diameter than the NOS guide. My machinist suggested knurling it and using Loctite, but I said "no" and will find another solution. Looks like Phil Pearson has them on his website and I will give him a ring in the morning. If he does not, then??? Sources or ideas anyone? Have one turned for me? Where? If this was easy, everyone would be doing it.
Another step forward, broken down, cleaned and inspected the dynamo on a rainy Saturday. I'll put it back together and bench test it.
Set valve clearances and timed my welder's Honda CB750 while he welded up the standard slot on my extra kick start quadrant. We turned it on the lathe and I ran out of time and still need to mill a new slot 60 degrees clockwise so that the kick start arm is aligned in the one o'clock position and is out of the way of my rearsets. Will try to get in the shop tomorrow to finish the quadrant.
My Honda tuning worked well, so well that two squad cars chased him down on his way back to the shop after test driving it...oops...
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
Making guides from phosphor bronze is no big deal, jut depends on max OD needed
It's real simple when you already have one to take measurements from.
Looks like you have access to a lathe so it should be real simple, you'll only need a reamer for finishing after fitting, then just get seat re-cut
It's pretty cheap for stock 13" length,
You can use better material than originals, high silicon bronze, manganese bronze, aluminium bronze, etc (or some of the latest bronze bearing alloys which are even tougher)
I've not used Beryllium bronze yet but intend to next time
I've made BSA/Triumph guides in the past
Bronze information
http://www.metaltek.com/alloy-guide/non-ferrous/bearing-bronze/
http://www.farmerscopper.com/aluminum-bronze-954-c954-c95400.html
Prices
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10535&step=4&showunits=inches&id=761&top_cat=0
http://www.speedymetals.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=946
Making guides from phosphor bronze is no big deal, jut depends on max OD needed
It's real simple when you already have one to take measurements from.
Looks like you have access to a lathe so it should be real simple, you'll only need a reamer for finishing after fitting, then just get seat re-cut
It's pretty cheap for stock 13" length,
You can use better material than originals, high silicon bronze, manganese bronze, aluminium bronze, etc (or some of the latest bronze bearing alloys which are even tougher)
I've not used Beryllium bronze yet but intend to next time
I've made BSA/Triumph guides in the past
Bronze information
http://www.metaltek.com/alloy-guide/non-ferrous/bearing-bronze/
http://www.farmerscopper.com/aluminum-bronze-954-c954-c95400.html
Prices
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=10535&step=4&showunits=inches&id=761&top_cat=0
http://www.speedymetals.com/showproduct.aspx?productid=946
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
Crazy PJ thanks again. I know just enough about a lathe to be dangerous, though I really want to restore an old one and learn how to use it.
Problem solved. Phil Pearson is going to spin up an +.008" oversized valve guide (65-1595) out of phosphorus bronze valve guide material for me. He did mention a DBD valve is larger on the OD and could also be turned down to the size I need.
Crazy PJ thanks again. I know just enough about a lathe to be dangerous, though I really want to restore an old one and learn how to use it.
Problem solved. Phil Pearson is going to spin up an +.008" oversized valve guide (65-1595) out of phosphorus bronze valve guide material for me. He did mention a DBD valve is larger on the OD and could also be turned down to the size I need.
Re: 1962 BSA DBD34 Gold Star restoration (Clutch, primary and rear drive are done)
Sorry for dropping off but lots of work and travel lately and the next two weeks will be brutal at work so I have little to no time to work on my bike. Good news, I am renting a workspace near my house so I will no longer be working in a 6' by 12' cramped work space or have a motorcycle in my living room and parts on my kitchen table! June 1 move in!
Tricor sent my QD quick detach harness (RS123) but I thought I was going to get a complete wiring harness but it is only the quick detach plug and some wiring to the main switch. Hmmmm, looks like I will need to order the correct colored wires and male and female Lucas style connector and make a new harness myself.
The new valve guide should be here soon I can finish the motor. That is it for now...
Sorry for dropping off but lots of work and travel lately and the next two weeks will be brutal at work so I have little to no time to work on my bike. Good news, I am renting a workspace near my house so I will no longer be working in a 6' by 12' cramped work space or have a motorcycle in my living room and parts on my kitchen table! June 1 move in!
Tricor sent my QD quick detach harness (RS123) but I thought I was going to get a complete wiring harness but it is only the quick detach plug and some wiring to the main switch. Hmmmm, looks like I will need to order the correct colored wires and male and female Lucas style connector and make a new harness myself.
The new valve guide should be here soon I can finish the motor. That is it for now...
