1970 Cl350 running rich

jtaylor1148

jtaylor1148

New Member
As the spring starts to begin, and allergy season is at critical mass here in Alabama with a yellow coating on everything, I am really itching o get the bike out on the road for the first time (literally). But anyway everything is in order, valves checked, timed, carbs synced, and finally got a tag. But the bike runs really rich, staying at high RPMS and falling back down slowly, and really only idles below 1800 with the choke engaged. So I was wondering, what is the simplest way to, "lean," it out? I may not be using the correct terminology so excuse me if I am, I just need not so much fuel so it goes a little less bang bang when I dont need to. Thanks :)
 
Oh, and sorry forgot to mention, I am running the stock Keihin 722a's. With shorty mufflers and a homemade silencer.
 
You say stock carbs. Is the jetting stock? Have the carbs been cleaned and how far into them did you get? What about the O-rings in the carbs?
 
sorry for the late reply, they are completely clean. o rings are fine. not stock getting. 70 primary and 72 secondary for some reason
 
jtaylor1148 said:
sorry for the late reply, they are completely clean. o rings are fine. not stock getting. 70 primary and 72 secondary for some reason
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jtaylor,the secondary jets should be(check your manual for confirmation on this..) around #100;check the o-rings around the main jets as mentioned before,if they're old they can leak and make the bike run rich.
 
jtaylor1148 said:
As the spring starts to begin, and allergy season is at critical mass here in Alabama with a yellow coating on everything, I am really itching o get the bike out on the road for the first time (literally). But anyway everything is in order, valves checked, timed, carbs synced, and finally got a tag. But the bike runs really rich, staying at high RPMS and falling back down slowly, and really only idles below 1800 with the choke engaged. So I was wondering, what is the simplest way to, "lean," it out? I may not be using the correct terminology so excuse me if I am, I just need not so much fuel so it goes a little less bang bang when I dont need to. Thanks :)
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Are you sure it's rich? Have you checked your plugs? A bike that runs really rich will wind up carbon fouling plugs, and the richer it is, the sooner the bike will sputter and die -- not idle high. When you engage the choke, you are enriching the mixture, which brings the idle down. Are you sure you're not running lean? First step: check the condition of your plugs. Second, check your boots to make sure you don't have any air leaks. There is an idle mixture adjustment screw which should be your first step when dialing it in at idle (along with the idle speed screw). You don't mention your air filters. If it's pods, you'll run leaner. If you have stock filters and just changed them, it'll likely run to the leaner side (especially if the old ones were clogged or gummed up, and the carbs set for those). If you have stock filters that are old, switch them out if you can't get them clean. Dirty filters can cause headaches when dialing in carbs.
 
Well yes, I have checked the plugs, and they are sooty and black even after just short run times. I do have the stock air filters, and, I checked for vacuum leaks and found none around the boots, and where the air filter connected to the carb body. Im currently checking and replacing the o rings on the jets as a few of them looked pretty worn out/stiff and cracked. So, are you saying when it runs rich, the bike wants to die, but lean speeds up the idle? Sorry, have not really worked with stuff like this but I figured it was the opposite way around
 
jtaylor1148 said:
Well yes, I have checked the plugs, and they are sooty and black even after just short run times. I do have the stock air filters, and, I checked for vacuum leaks and found none around the boots, and where the air filter connected to the carb body. Im currently checking and replacing the o rings on the jets as a few of them looked pretty worn out/stiff and cracked. So, are you saying when it runs rich, the bike wants to die, but lean speeds up the idle? Sorry, have not really worked with stuff like this but I figured it was the opposite way around
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When you replace the small o-rings it's best to get the oem Honda rubber seal kits because they have the toughest rubber that you can buy,the cheap o-rings will blow-up in size after just a little while and stop sealing.
 
Yea I got some genuine Honda seals thanks, welp, all carb work has been put on a hiatus as the bike no longer has any spark. Yayyyy more electrical work. My favorite. :'(
Can the condenser cause the no spark issue, or will that be a coils only thing? I just noticed I got an infinite reading from the coil to the spark plug boot, and like 10 ohms on the primary.
 
How's your contact points and points lead wires look? I've seen some lead wire connections grounded out where they mount to the points;are the little brown plastic insulators for the lead wires on the points still insualted from ground ?
 
The screws holding the cover are stripped out so I will have to spend some time getting those off tomorrow. So I will check and see if that's the problem,because I was thinking grounding issue but I was not sure where it actually grounded out. Thanks man
 
jtaylor1148 said:
The screws holding the cover are stripped out so I will have to spend some time getting those off tomorrow. So I will check and see if that's the problem,because I was thinking grounding issue but I was not sure where it actually grounded out. Thanks man
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jt,the points are the 'weakest link' in the ignition w/ both points contact surfaces themselves being the area that get's burned the easiest.
 
Sorry for the novicity here, but are the orange things the insulators?
 

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jtaylor1148 said:
Sorry for the novicity here, but are the orange things the insulators?
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Yeah,those little plastic discs that separate the blue & yellow wires from the steel part of the points.Those points will sure need to be cleaned well if you haven't done it yet.The best way imo is to remove each set from the baseplate and clean each set of contacts w/ very fine(600-900 grit)sandpaper plus spray the contact surfaces w/ Brakleen to get all the burned carbon/grease off them and test them w/ an ohm meter to be sure they have the least amount of resistance as you can;replacing them might be best if you can find oem Honda 'ND' brand points from the dealership.Then remove the round baseplate itself so you can check the advance unit underneath there to make sure it still turns well and springs back by itself too.
 
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