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Putting wheel back together today, got all the way to the last set of spokes but had to push down on the hub a good bit(1/4"?) to get it in position, is that normal? Got all the nipples snugged down now.
Putting wheel back together today, got all the way to the last set of spokes but had to push down on the hub a good bit(1/4"?) to get it in position, is that normal? Got all the nipples snugged down now.
Normally you would have wanted to measure the hub/rim offset before taking apart. Before disassembly lay a straightedge across the hub and measure down to the outside of the rim. Do this in several places and record the average. Then when re-lacing the wheel you will know how to align the rim side to side to match the factory setup. Chances are you will get an acceptable job by threading all nipples on an equal distance in relation to the spoke threads, but not necessarily.
Should have had all the 'inner' spokes in hub (the ones that go in from the outside) and nipples just a couple of threads on so wheel is real 'loose'
It's quite normal to have to flex last couple of spokes a bit, particularly if you got nipples tweaked a bit too far
Got both wheels laced and spokes tightened until they don't wiggle. Some spokes have a small amount of thread poking through the top of the nipple, some don't. Should they all be close to equal before truing or what?
Also, here's some pictures of my inspiration and a helmet I'm considering.
sometimes a bit of thread will poke out after truing its no big deal, but you need to grind down/file the nipples smooth, so there are no sharp edges. You can use a rubber rim strip but i personally like the rim tape, because it cant move on the wheel and wear through.
Finally got the wheels trued and boxes of parts. Got the tank stripped and sandblasted and in epoxy. Front wheel isn't center, can't figure out why. I have the double washer axle nut, seems like I need a single washer axle nut. Or perhaps the forks are bent, I don't know. They're pretty beat up. Can I buy a couple washers to put on the spacer side to push it center, or what do I need to do?
Check you have the correct spacers in the correct places. More than once a disc brake bike spacer has ended up on a drum bike or parts were fitted from wrong side/incorrect positions
'We' have even seen bearings not fully seated cause the same problem
One other thing is possible, the rim is not properly centered on hub and you have an offset
Hey guys, been a while but I got the wheels on & brakes working. Got it running and adjusted clutch, works but I don't think it's fully disengaging. I can let it out and go into first and swap gears, but if I'm in 1st gear and it cuts off, I should be able to crank by holding in clutch right? Other than that it seems to be doing decently. Not sure if you can hear it, but theres some sort of tinny sound coming from the engine as well. What is that?
Electric start started working after I got it warm as well. Tank is almost ready for paint too. Making good progress!
you need to use nuetral with the clutch dis-engaged for kick starting,the cb/cl 350 do not have primary kick starting only the kick-only sl350 has a primary kicker lash
Quick question - I have a tiny shifter mounted to the spindle. From what I understand, it came stock with the linkage and the long shifter. Should I order the linkage shifter or just a regular long shifter to moint to the pivot? Will it make any difference? From what I understand, the linkage shifters were sloppy and are only needed for looks/keeping it stock.
I would get the correct one as a standard lever may be too far forward.
The sloppy links just get drilled oversize then fit some bushings or hardened pins.
You can probably make it work better than stock
Color sanding and buffing to go. Gonna have the silver pinstriped black around it and re-clear. (Eventually) pictures in the sun come tomorrow, the candy metallic is beautiful in the light. Color changes completely with the light.
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