1972 Suzuki T500 Titan family project
- Thread starter screebo
- Start date
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
Great to watch you build this Titan. I am also working on a Titan (when life does not get in the way). I have bought a few of Titan products and they are very well made. I know you said that you like the wheels but if you do end up replacing the rims, you can put an 18" on the front to make the bike more flickable.
Brian
Brian
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
One more thing, when you pull the clutch in the oil pump stops working, so don't sit at the light with the bike in gear. I don't think the clutch lever should be tough to squeeze, maybe when you shorten the cables it will be better.
screebo
New Member
Got the little battery located as well as the cleaver fuse box and electronic ignition rectifier. Just about ready to kick it over as soon as I sort what jets to replace my stock 150 mains and pilot jets with. Feel free to chime in here! I may just put the carbs back in stock configuration and see how it runs. :-\
Titan performance
Titan cafe racer builders.
Looking great Screebo.....the bike is an early model with 34mm carbs. You may find that it will run crisp with the stock settings, but take care, it will be a little lean with the pods and pipes, you don't want to melt anything. I always err on the side of caution, and probably run a little on the rich side, but better safe than sorry I say, my engine does get used hard at times. The 150 in the 34 is the stock main I believe, but I'm not sure what increments they go up in, so not sure where you should start I'm afraid. On my own bike, with 32's, I used 115's in place of the stock 97.5's, and increased pilots by 2 sizes. It runs all good. You may be able to relate this info to your settings, or someone on here with an earlier bike will hopefully step in with the numbers.
screebo
New Member
Yesterday was a good day of finalizing locations for electric components. I used a universal turn signal relay and mounted it under the seat with everything else. The main Eastern Beaver fuse box has it's own relay also located under the seat that is triggered by the ignition switch powering up the ignition and lights. I tied into the existing wiring for the handle bar switches under the gas tank. This allowed me to create my own wiring harness to bring it all together. All the existing switches including brake light switches work just fine. I've still got to tackle connecting the Acewell speedo. I'm going to try a universal spoke mount magnet for triggering the speed's sensor. I've also got to sort out my neutral light connection and tie in the speedo to the turn signals to the speedo indicators.
I drilled my polished headlight bracket to mount classic small rectangular turn signals. They barely fit behind the headlight. I'm also still doing Loctite of all new components as well as final adjustments to rear sets and locking them into place. That will be done today.
I ordered some jets from Jetsrus to replace my stockers. For the main 150 jets, I went one set two sizes over (155) and one set three sizes over (157.5). For the 30 pilot jets, I used the same formula and went two sizes over (35) and one set three sizes over (37.5). I'll install the smaller jets first as a starting place and see how it runs. I'll be adding Red Line two stroke oil to my new tank today and recycling the first ounce or two that flows through the lines. Anyone got thoughts on great gearbox oil to use? What are we using for oil in the stock front forks? Is there a very cool upgrade/replacement rear shock for the Titan? Just wondering......
More pics at days end.
I drilled my polished headlight bracket to mount classic small rectangular turn signals. They barely fit behind the headlight. I'm also still doing Loctite of all new components as well as final adjustments to rear sets and locking them into place. That will be done today.
I ordered some jets from Jetsrus to replace my stockers. For the main 150 jets, I went one set two sizes over (155) and one set three sizes over (157.5). For the 30 pilot jets, I used the same formula and went two sizes over (35) and one set three sizes over (37.5). I'll install the smaller jets first as a starting place and see how it runs. I'll be adding Red Line two stroke oil to my new tank today and recycling the first ounce or two that flows through the lines. Anyone got thoughts on great gearbox oil to use? What are we using for oil in the stock front forks? Is there a very cool upgrade/replacement rear shock for the Titan? Just wondering......
More pics at days end.
Looking good so far, John. Not to second guess the Titan guys, but you may want to consider starting with larger mains. Not sure what the fuel is like in SF, but I have alcohol here. I presume you have made no modifications aside from the pipes and air cleaners and while the T500 motors were designed as more of a bomb proof touring application than a hot rod, better safe than sorry. I didn't glean how much 2t tuning experience you have from your thread, but they are a sensitive disaster compared to 4 cycle engines, some more than others. You risk possible serious problems working your way up to rich enough instead of working your way down to lean enough, especially if you are not certain what safe spark timing is and you run the engine hard. If you are using alcohol corrupted gasoline, start with less than stock advance too. Like the jetting, you can always work your way back once you know you are safe. There can be a surprising variance depending on setup. I have a 350 in my shop now that likes 280 mains up from 140 stock. More engine mods than your bike, but that is a big increase - I thought it had to be sucking air from somewhere but is tight and runs fabulous like it is ready to grenade. Plug chops are textbook and it is at 1800 miles. I have another with 34's on it, my personal bike, highly modified and it likes only 270 mains so go figure. Everything I see runs too hot with stock ignition timing running the pump gas with alcohol. Straight gasoline without alcohol is hard to find where I live, so I just have to put up with the alcohol.
I have gone to using Rotella in my 2t transmissions and while it seems like it would be a heavy horsepower robbing fluid, it doesn't seem to run that way and I am seeing better shifting and no clutch issues. I am using the non synthetic. I use Yamaha or Bel-Ray fork oil, though I have never seen any brand that I thought made any difference. Experimenting with volume and viscosity makes giant differences, but have never seen one brand to be better (or worse) than another. I have never used anything other than dedicated fork oil, so no opinion on using atf or anything as a substitute.
Practically anything will be a giant improvement over the stock shocks. Mostly, shocks are a "you get what you pay for" situation, and I generally make suspension the main focus of where money goes into a project. The T500 has a long and frail frame, so the is no doubt a point of diminishing returns seen pretty rapidly without frame mods, but don't overlook the all important swing arm pivot when getting all you can out of the stock chassis.
I have gone to using Rotella in my 2t transmissions and while it seems like it would be a heavy horsepower robbing fluid, it doesn't seem to run that way and I am seeing better shifting and no clutch issues. I am using the non synthetic. I use Yamaha or Bel-Ray fork oil, though I have never seen any brand that I thought made any difference. Experimenting with volume and viscosity makes giant differences, but have never seen one brand to be better (or worse) than another. I have never used anything other than dedicated fork oil, so no opinion on using atf or anything as a substitute.
Practically anything will be a giant improvement over the stock shocks. Mostly, shocks are a "you get what you pay for" situation, and I generally make suspension the main focus of where money goes into a project. The T500 has a long and frail frame, so the is no doubt a point of diminishing returns seen pretty rapidly without frame mods, but don't overlook the all important swing arm pivot when getting all you can out of the stock chassis.
screebo
New Member
Thanks for the detailed reply, Mobius. I found that the wiring diagram that I was using for reference was incorrect. Upon finding the correct diagram, I was able to sort out my electrical and all accessories working correctly. I also finished tightening all hardware and purged the air from my oil line. I cleaned my carbs and should be getting the new jets tomorrow. Looks like it could be running as soon as tomorrow!
http://vid619.photobucket.com/albums/tt273/screebo21/868E1B35-5A40-48EA-BC64-6D652CD95016_zpsz9nsynjz.mp4
http://vid619.photobucket.com/albums/tt273/screebo21/868E1B35-5A40-48EA-BC64-6D652CD95016_zpsz9nsynjz.mp4
screebo
New Member
Three days ago I was kind of guessing about wiring and trying to sneak it under the tank and seat. This photo was taken just before an "Ah Ha"! moment.
"George" At Acewell gauges in China advised that he had a spoke mount magnet and asked what country I lived in. I returned my mailing address and contact information to him but have not heard back. I got antsy and fabricated my own. The sensor fit well into a hole I drilled in the fender bracket.
I assumed that when the jets arrived I'd need some gas so once the electrical was done, done, done, I bought a can and brought home some gas for the "Little Mule".
With the carbs freshly cleaned and two size over main and pilot jets installed, the bike was slow to pop but eventually got up and running. Tomorrow I'll sneak in a short road test.
"George" At Acewell gauges in China advised that he had a spoke mount magnet and asked what country I lived in. I returned my mailing address and contact information to him but have not heard back. I got antsy and fabricated my own. The sensor fit well into a hole I drilled in the fender bracket.
I assumed that when the jets arrived I'd need some gas so once the electrical was done, done, done, I bought a can and brought home some gas for the "Little Mule".
With the carbs freshly cleaned and two size over main and pilot jets installed, the bike was slow to pop but eventually got up and running. Tomorrow I'll sneak in a short road test.
Early 34mm carbs with round sides used #410 Hex jets. Later carbs went to a 150 large round jet and last used 97.5.
With pods and chambers, I'd start at at least 160 or larger. Remember that two strokes like to run rich for power and rich to survive. There is no need to try to get to some theoretically perfect color. Run it a dyno with a sniffer is way cheaper than replacement pistons.
With pods and chambers, I'd start at at least 160 or larger. Remember that two strokes like to run rich for power and rich to survive. There is no need to try to get to some theoretically perfect color. Run it a dyno with a sniffer is way cheaper than replacement pistons.
screebo
New Member
Hey Gang,
I sure like the character of the Titan. It starts right up and with the stock jets back installed. It runs and idles real nice. I guess it's a mystery why the 155 mains that I bought made it smoke and bog so badly. I'm actually surprised that I didn't try the stock set up prior to installing two sizes over.
I cleaned the carbs real well and right now it seems to be burning just about perfect. With the 155's, my plugs came out wet and black. The Red Line two stroke oil I'm burning has a real nice fragrance! My oil tank holds one entire gallon so I guess I won't need to be topping it off too soon! I'll be replacing the gear oil with 20-50 weight Red Line Motorcycle Oil.
Today I'm heading off to the California Department of Motor Vehicles to bring it officially out of hibernation and legally on the road. I've put about 16 miles on it getting jetting and carb adjustments "about right". I also had to buy a kill switch since the electronic ignition provides sufficient spark for the bike to run great even with the key turned "off". The battery seems to be only providing electricity to my accessories.
I sure like the character of the Titan. It starts right up and with the stock jets back installed. It runs and idles real nice. I guess it's a mystery why the 155 mains that I bought made it smoke and bog so badly. I'm actually surprised that I didn't try the stock set up prior to installing two sizes over.
I cleaned the carbs real well and right now it seems to be burning just about perfect. With the 155's, my plugs came out wet and black. The Red Line two stroke oil I'm burning has a real nice fragrance! My oil tank holds one entire gallon so I guess I won't need to be topping it off too soon! I'll be replacing the gear oil with 20-50 weight Red Line Motorcycle Oil.
Today I'm heading off to the California Department of Motor Vehicles to bring it officially out of hibernation and legally on the road. I've put about 16 miles on it getting jetting and carb adjustments "about right". I also had to buy a kill switch since the electronic ignition provides sufficient spark for the bike to run great even with the key turned "off". The battery seems to be only providing electricity to my accessories.
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
Congrats!
screebo
New Member
So now "I've got issues" 
I change my gear oil to Red Line 10-40 for M/C. The oil I drained seemed like a much less than 1400 cc's and did have some sparkles in it....however, it did not have anything on the magnets of the drain plugs etc. My last ride was fine, gearbox worked "OK". Now.....I can NOT shift it into gear. It's in neutral "forever" I checked my set back linkage and the gearbox just doesn't seem to be responding to input. the clutch seems fine as it disengages the kick start when I pull it. Any ideas of what-the-fork is going on? Thanks all!
John
I change my gear oil to Red Line 10-40 for M/C. The oil I drained seemed like a much less than 1400 cc's and did have some sparkles in it....however, it did not have anything on the magnets of the drain plugs etc. My last ride was fine, gearbox worked "OK". Now.....I can NOT shift it into gear. It's in neutral "forever" I checked my set back linkage and the gearbox just doesn't seem to be responding to input. the clutch seems fine as it disengages the kick start when I pull it. Any ideas of what-the-fork is going on? Thanks all!
John
Powderfinger
Been Around the Block
Maybe something with the neutral detent. Did you remove it also when you were draining your oil?
screebo
New Member
Spot on, PF. I removed the "wrong" second oil drain plug and goofed up my neutral detent somehow.
UPDATE: After reading PF's reply, I found that by loosening the neutral detent bolt, I was able to shift into gear, however, now I cannot shift into any other gear or back into neutral. Please share any experience with removing and replacing the neutral detent bolt and how it could be affecting my shifting. Thanks!
UPDATE: After reading PF's reply, I found that by loosening the neutral detent bolt, I was able to shift into gear, however, now I cannot shift into any other gear or back into neutral. Please share any experience with removing and replacing the neutral detent bolt and how it could be affecting my shifting. Thanks!
Powderfinger
Been Around the Block
Ok, that is some progress.
If you haven't tried it yet get the back wheel off the ground and rock it back and forth with one hand while working the shifter with the other.
If you haven't tried it yet get the back wheel off the ground and rock it back and forth with one hand while working the shifter with the other.
