1973 cb350f lightweight cafe

1sttimer said:
That nice kit didn't come with a connection for the shift spline....?

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Not a kit, I bought the linkage and rearsets separate. I see compared to others I left the spline connection long, but it works so damn well I don't plan on changing it. Im no engineer but im pretty sure making it longer allows for less foot pressure to be required. I will, however, take it off, shape the metal, and then powdercoat it.
 
Making the spline longer on the shifter shaft will mean that the shift lever will have to travel more to shift gears. I've seen some wildly disproportionate ones, and obviously if yours works for you there you go, but if you think there's too much travel in you lever to shift gears, you could shorten it a tad. Most are 1:1 in terms of length, or close to it.
 
carnivorous chicken said:
Making the spline longer on the shifter shaft will mean that the shift lever will have to travel more to shift gears. I've seen some wildly disproportionate ones, and obviously if yours works for you there you go, but if you think there's too much travel in you lever to shift gears, you could shorten it a tad. Most are 1:1 in terms of length, or close to it.
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Interesting, that I did now know, but make perfect sense. I may take a little off then, even though the throw is not horrible
 
Just drill another hole in the selector shaft lever. That way you can test drive it and evaluate it. That way you can go back to the longer adjustment if you find the pedal pressure too high. In every case of adjusting lever ratios, you trade travel distance for torque. It is a surprisingly important and subtle adjustment. Too much pedal travel can make for poor shifting despite how easy it is to change gears. But the opposite is also true, as making a short throw at the pedal can require way too much pressure to make confident shifts. In a perfect world, you would want to keep the throw and torque required the same as stock, presuming stock worked well. In the real world, the additional linkage adds its own resistances and kinematic changes which can make adjusting the arm ratios desirable. Find the arm length that drives well and there you are - just don't shorten the arm until you are sure.
 
I took everyones advice and did this
 

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So small update. Made a couple of little tweaks, and overall I am very happy with the bike. Extremely comfortable, runs well, and knock on wood I seem to have gotten it right. As luck would have it the bike got picked up for a feature on another site, couldn't be more pleased.

Here's a snapshot from the photo shoot we did for the article. Clicking on the photo, the high resolution shot that comes up looks dramatically better.
 

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jag767 said:
So small update. Made a couple of little tweaks, and overall I am very happy with the bike. Extremely comfortable, runs well, and knock on wood I seem to have gotten it right. As luck would have it the bike got picked up for a feature on another site, couldn't be more pleased.

Here's a snapshot from the photo shoot we did for the article. Clicking on the photo, the high resolution shot that comes up looks dramatically better.
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looks amazing
 
You've built a very nice bike here sir. I notice your work has been picked up at a couple of other places on the interweb - pity no credit given. I like fenders on bikes, but realize opinions vary. Nicely done regardless. Any pics of the starboard side?
 
Thank you all for the nice words.

Jpmobius, yeah it's getting bounced around a little, perhaps more than I know about lol. Thankfully that's what got me the article so I cant be too mad about it haha. I will definitely post a link once it's published. And yes, I am definitely not a fender man. I did make the appropriate modifications to not have any adverse effects (other than often needing cleaning) by adding the tarozzi brace, and making sure nothing will go in the carbs with the airbox I choose.

Here's a shot from the other side for you. I have a whole load more, but since these are really for the article, I'm just posting the one for now.

Also I will beat anyone who is curious to the punch. I have the rear brake adjusted high like that because I find the only thing I use that little drum for is a hill brake when stopped. Since I'm short (5'6"), having it high I can plant my left foot flat on the ground, and comfortably actuate it with my right while stopped.
 

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www.returnofthecaferacers.com/2016/04/anything-but-vanilla-kinesis-moto-honda.html

Pretty happy to get recognized.
 
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