1974 CB 360 ~ Project "37"

Which Strip should I choose for the tank?

  • Offset Wide Stripe

    Votes: 22 73.3%
  • Offset Thin Stripe

    Votes: 8 26.7%

  • Total voters
    30
crazypj said:
They is 1970's 'Chopper pots', used to see them on all sorts of bikes with high bars.
IMO, they look better with the flared end cut off

Good idea, just the very tip, right? where it just flares at the very end? I think that would look a little more racer-ish.
 
Re: 1974 CB 360 ~ Project "37" ~ Electrical Issues errrrrrr

djelliott said:
You're welcome. I've had a lot of luck in my build from good friends and good ebay deals so it's nice to pass a little along. Let me know when you get them. Enjoy!

DJ, got the stuff in the mail today.. everything worked great, thanks a lot!!

On a side not I think have a REAL issue, I let my bettery charge overnight and went through my wiring again wire by wire (did this twice) and when I turn the ignition to the on position I get NOTHING.... I cant even get the horn to sound... even the Neutral light indicator wont come on.... WHAT AM I MISSING??? I am getting really frustrated with this, any help would be greatly appreciated guys...

Cheers,
Kevin
 
Glad everything worked out with the parts. Man, electrical gremlins are a bitch. I would have thought fuse or ground like the other guys. Maybe a bad ignition switch? Pull it out and hot wire the bike. That should help you narrow it down. Also, start checking for continuity on the positives and grounds.
 
im in the process of removing the electrical gremlins from my cb360 right now, too. my problem is a little different, I keep blowing 30 amp fuses. The solution, as I see it, is similar tho. If the battery is charged, grab a volt meter, turn the key on, and check all the grounds to the frame and engine. check them from the battery and from the starter solenoid. I wish I could give you more specific advice, but thats the only way I've ever fixed an electrical problem. well, that and using an infrared thermal imaging camera to spot the wires that arent grounding. But not everybody has one of those. best of luck.
 
So, it looks like I might need to replace my battery... I pulled the battery from my old 200 build that had been sitting (not on a tender) for about 6 months and thought that if I put it on a charger it would be okay, but it isnt holding a charge!! Since I am probably going to replace the battery, I want to find a smaller battery, I have seen some rather interesting ideas here and would like to use one of them... I am keeping ALL of my electrics, so I need a battery that can run everything but I want to keep size as small as possible... Could someone give me a suggestion on which battery to go with???

Thanks guys
 
hecklejk said:
So, it looks like I might need to replace my battery... I pulled the battery from my old 200 build that had been sitting (not on a tender) for about 6 months and thought that if I put it on a charger it would be okay, but it isnt holding a charge!! Since I am probably going to replace the battery, I want to find a smaller battery, I have seen some rather interesting ideas here and would like to use one of them... I am keeping ALL of my electrics, so I need a battery that can run everything but I want to keep size as small as possible... Could someone give me a suggestion on which battery to go with???

Thanks guys

AGM or Gel battery. They're sealed so you can mount them at any angle. I'm kick start only so I grabbed a small 3aH one and hid it under my seat. You can get larger aH ones though. Check out this place. They were great to deal with.

http://powerstridebattery.com/
 
djelliott said:
AGM or Gel battery. They're sealed so you can mount them at any angle. I'm kick start only so I grabbed a small 3aH one and hid it under my seat. You can get larger aH ones though. Check out this place. They were great to deal with.

http://powerstridebattery.com/

Thanks for the tip.. I will check them out, I need a smaller batter to fit my velocity stacks to my carbs... Will have to fab up a new battery mount, but I ma not worried about that!!
 
When I first finished my 360 I had the same elec problems turns out that my fuses were good but the connections on the ends were not, take your voltmeter and start there make sure you have 12v on each side of the fuse
 
hanly2 said:
When I first finished my 360 I had the same elec problems turns out that my fuses were good but the connections on the ends were not, take your voltmeter and start there make sure you have 12v on each side of the fuse

Interesting... thanks for the tip, I will check that this evening.. If it turns out that they arethe issue, do I replace the connectors or do I just clean them??
 
So I spent some time last night on the electrial issues that I am having, and here is where I am at..
I have to replace my battery.... I am only getting 9.05 Volts off the battery (and thats with the battery being on a charger for 3 days).. Even with the lack of power on the battery, I decided to test my cables to see if the 9.05 volts was getting past the battery... I checked the main fuse box (the one behind the battery) and when I tested the red wire, it Light up on Both sides... But the other 2 did nothing... (is this a problem??)
IMG00240-20100510-2130.jpg

IMG00238-20100510-2129.jpg

I also check the Yellow/Red wire coming off of the Starter relay, and nothing... no power. I checked all the Red wires from the battery leading to the starter motor and to the Ignition switch and they all tested out okay... I am still getting NOTHING when I turn the ignition switch on... By the way I had to replace the Ignition switch because the PO didn't give me a key to the bike...

any ideas???

thanks guys
 
Kevin, you should still get power on the other ends, even with 9 volts. It may not be strong enought to turn your motor over but enought to show current on the other end. I would check your ignition switch, make sure you ARE getting voltage there and that once you put it on the on position, power is going out. Check under the switch with the same tool you're using. Oh and BTW, sometimes there is another fuse in the headlamp assembly (inside the bucket)
 
I had a similar issue with my 74 CB360,

Not reading the entire postings,



I had a bad connection on my rectifyer,but that is for converting the AC power out of the Stator to DC, but as far as trying to hot wire, Put a jumper wire from the + connection of the Bat---> to the other side of the starter selonoid, see of the motor turns over, or kick the SOB over, the electronics are fairly simple, and in my case, i didnt have a "extra fuse" in the headlight bucket.

other wise, you might have a bad key switch.... if that is the case, the ultimate hotwire kit includes 2 14guage wires, unplug the key switch from the socket up front, and jump the brown, pink, and yellow? havnt had to do this in a long time, ( a buddy would give the keys up when on a bender, so i hotwired and parked it down the road.) Either way there are 4 wires, 3 need to be connected, and the black one is the one u dont wanna eff with, shoot me a Pm and i will fork over the Honda Manual for the dirty bugger.
 
xulf13 said:
Kevin, you should still get power on the other ends, even with 9 volts. It may not be strong enought to turn your motor over but enought to show current on the other end. I would check your ignition switch, make sure you ARE getting voltage there and that once you put it on the on position, power is going out. Check under the switch with the same tool you're using. Oh and BTW, sometimes there is another fuse in the headlamp assembly (inside the bucket)

I will try that when I get home, if that doesn't work can I use the Ignition switch from my CB200??? I know for a fact that it is good... I am gonna be a little pissed if it is the ignition switch, because I spent about $30 on it from ebay...
 
You should be able to use any ignition switch. All they do is connect the lose ends and transfer power where needed. In all cases, the ignition switch will have ONE wire that is constantly hot. then when the key is turned in the on position it moves that constant voltage to the starter solenoid and accessories. You pretty much have to make sure that the power is being routed tot he starter solenoid and accesories. Your lights should come on or be able to come on when the ignition is on the ON position. Even your signals should blink. If nothing is happening. There's got to be a blown fuse and or bad ground somewhere. Even if the fuse looks good, remove it and check for continuity.

And see if you can find a wiring diagram for your bike. There are some really nice ones out there all nice and colored.
check this link out and just click on your model bike.
http://oldmanhonda.com/MC/WiringDiagrams/MCwiring.php

I hope this helps. Now get that bike running so we can ride ;D
 
So I checked the ignition switch, and with the key in the OFF position I have power on the RED wire and with the key in the ON position I have power on the RED and BROWN wires.. Am I supposed to have power on the BRROWN/WHITE wire?? I still have no power to anything in the front of the bike..... I checked and cant find any other fuses in the the wiring harness or wiring diagram....

I am at a loss.... ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
 
Try to get a short pice of wire to connect the red to the brown, (that is done in the switch) and then a wire from the brown to the brown/white wire.

that should get all the lights on too. if it doesnt, try putting the switch in the ON position.

I had to hotwire my bike this way becuase i left my keys at work and needed to get to work some how... hotwire the car, or the bike???


from what i am guessing, either bad ground wire, make sure that thing is on bare metal, no paint,
or a fuse is blown and you cant see it. if you are getting really fryed on this try to make some paper clip fuses, you will find out real fast what is not working with those.

km
 
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