So I am thinking about ordering a set of new connectors from here http://www.vintageconnections.com/ to help sort out my electrical gremlins, and I was wondering if I would have any problems if I shortened some of the wires in the harness... I know that there needs to be some play in the harness so that the wires dont unplug themselves when I turn the handle bars, but I dont think I need to have 6 inches of slack in them... DO I?????? Just want to make sure I don't trash an otherwise good wiring harness...
1974 CB 360 ~ Project "37"
- Thread starter hecklejk
- Start date
xulf13
West of Tennessee
I would try to figure out where the problem is first. Just because the conectors are old, don't mean they are bad. If that is the case, then you might as well get a whole wire harness.
I had no issue shortening my wires since I put clip ons for handle bars. I did use some new conectors and some of the older ones, i just resoldered after I shortened the wire lenght.
I had no issue shortening my wires since I put clip ons for handle bars. I did use some new conectors and some of the older ones, i just resoldered after I shortened the wire lenght.
KrashManhatten
Active Member
any luck with getting juice up top?
also, do you know if the indicator lights work?
also, do you know if the indicator lights work?
So this weekend I got to work on my brake issues and ran into a few problems....
1. the front brake hose coming from the master cylinder is clogged, got a line on a new one already (thanks Kanoicty) but that not the real headache! Biggest problem, is the bleader nut and the nut that holds the metal brake hose are rusted in place, and the bleader valve is stripped so I can't get it out... WHAT DO I DO???
2. After moving to the rear of the bike, I noticed that the retaning bolt in the drum brake coverwas missing so when I depressed the brake pedal nothing happened... I replace the retaning bolt and now the brake housing doesn't move but the brake doesn't engage either.. I think the brake may have been dismantled by the PO... I am going to take the rear wheel off next to determine the reason the rear brake doesn't work...
On a side note, I did get something accomplished with this build!!!! I got my CB500 tank cleaned out inside... I used the "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner method and OH MY GOD it works great!!! I was a bit skeptical that a household cleaner could clean a tank that well, but damn!!!! I wnet a little overboard with it... using 3 full bottles of the blue smelly stuff and 1 full bottle of hot water... let the tank sit for about 30 minutes on each side, dumped the cleaner out and it had turned all green and foamy..... and to my surprise the inside of that bad boy looked like new!!! Flushed the tank out with some warm water, then WD40'd her up to protect against flash rust to finish her up...
1. the front brake hose coming from the master cylinder is clogged, got a line on a new one already (thanks Kanoicty) but that not the real headache! Biggest problem, is the bleader nut and the nut that holds the metal brake hose are rusted in place, and the bleader valve is stripped so I can't get it out... WHAT DO I DO???
2. After moving to the rear of the bike, I noticed that the retaning bolt in the drum brake coverwas missing so when I depressed the brake pedal nothing happened... I replace the retaning bolt and now the brake housing doesn't move but the brake doesn't engage either.. I think the brake may have been dismantled by the PO... I am going to take the rear wheel off next to determine the reason the rear brake doesn't work...
On a side note, I did get something accomplished with this build!!!! I got my CB500 tank cleaned out inside... I used the "The Works" toilet bowl cleaner method and OH MY GOD it works great!!! I was a bit skeptical that a household cleaner could clean a tank that well, but damn!!!! I wnet a little overboard with it... using 3 full bottles of the blue smelly stuff and 1 full bottle of hot water... let the tank sit for about 30 minutes on each side, dumped the cleaner out and it had turned all green and foamy..... and to my surprise the inside of that bad boy looked like new!!! Flushed the tank out with some warm water, then WD40'd her up to protect against flash rust to finish her up...
Right.... I am at my wits end, I just can not for the life of me figure out my wiring issues..... If there is anyone in the Charlotte area that wouldn't mind helping me out I would greatly appreciate it (beers are on me!!) I already know I need a new battery, it is fried.... at this point... I can use all the help I can get..
thanks a ton guys, I really appreciate it..
thanks a ton guys, I really appreciate it..
charlesskelter
Been Around the Block
Do you have a wire diagram for bike?
I'm not an electrical wiz, but with a little bit of time and a diagram, I can usually figure it out. With two sets of eyes I'm sure we could get the problem figured out.
I'm not an electrical wiz, but with a little bit of time and a diagram, I can usually figure it out. With two sets of eyes I'm sure we could get the problem figured out.
Thanks a ton for all the support guys, without you guys I doubt I would ever get anything done on this bike!!!
Charles - I do have a wiring diagram, so maybe when you come by with the seat we can have a look see at the wiring... I need to get my new battery first...
I have check all the grounds, and they seem okay... none of the fuses that I can find are blown... and when I had juice in the battery, I could get no power to the Horn/Head Light/Turn Signals.. There is one set of wires that I just can't find on my wiring diagram... it is a Dark Green wire with a Red stripe, it comes off of the main wire harness and is paired with a light green wire with a red stripe... The DG/R wire coming off of the main harness has a femal connector, and I have found a Male DG/R wire in the main jumble of wires that is the end of the main harness
I just can't find it in the diagram so I do not know what the hell its for.... Another issue that I have come across is that alot of the electrical connectors seem to be coroded.... should I replace them???
thanks again for the help guys..
Charles - I do have a wiring diagram, so maybe when you come by with the seat we can have a look see at the wiring... I need to get my new battery first...
I have check all the grounds, and they seem okay... none of the fuses that I can find are blown... and when I had juice in the battery, I could get no power to the Horn/Head Light/Turn Signals.. There is one set of wires that I just can't find on my wiring diagram... it is a Dark Green wire with a Red stripe, it comes off of the main wire harness and is paired with a light green wire with a red stripe... The DG/R wire coming off of the main harness has a femal connector, and I have found a Male DG/R wire in the main jumble of wires that is the end of the main harness
I just can't find it in the diagram so I do not know what the hell its for.... Another issue that I have come across is that alot of the electrical connectors seem to be coroded.... should I replace them???
thanks again for the help guys..
Got my new mufflers in the post today... Spent a little time in the garage after work fabricating a mount for one of the mufflers, because the guy I got the mufflers from neglected to tell me that they were both right side mounted.... No biggy, got em all mounted up... just need to clean up the headers and wrap em then my exhaust will be done..
and a shot with the 500 tank on!! Man this is gonna be one awesome bike!!!
and a shot with the 500 tank on!! Man this is gonna be one awesome bike!!!
KrashManhatten
Active Member
Nice turn signals, where did you get them?
km
km
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
The Dk/Gr-R wire is part of the starter lockout, runs through a diode in some markets (had to pull clutch before electric start worked)
I still think the 'chopper pots' would look better with the return flange cut off, sort of stylised mini Gold Star silencer
PJ
I still think the 'chopper pots' would look better with the return flange cut off, sort of stylised mini Gold Star silencer
PJ
KrashManhatten said:
They are clubman style turn signals, got them off of ebay. Price wan't too bad, but they took forever to arrive since they shipped from Thailand.. These are similar, but with clear lenses.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HONDA-GB500-GB400-GB250-Clubman-Turn-signal-12V-set-4-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439f364027QQitemZ290433941543QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/4-Turn-Signal-12V-Honda-GB250-GB400-GB500-GB-Clubman-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem2a035da0b0QQitemZ180445094064QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
racing geek
Just a kid with a welder
I believe this is what you are asking about and what you seem to be missing. These photos are taken of my '74 CL360 so it is the exact same wiring harness you have.
Here is everything together...
Here is everything blown apart...
On my '74 CL360 parts bike, those wires are just connected together. I'm not sure if it works this way, but I don't see why it wouldn't work this way since my non parts bike CL360 has those 2 wires connected using a 2pin connector. There were some numbers, arrows and symbols embossed on the end of that black plug but I forgot to take a picture of it when it was apart. I would gladly take it back apart for another but that "white" 2pin connector it's going into is turning yellow and cracking so I would rather not mess with it anymore.
Also, I don't know how you were testing all your electrical stuff, but I noticed when I was testing mine, I needed both directionals for one side otherwise it would just stay on and not flash. Once the other directional was hooked up it would immediately start flashing. I think there was also something goofy with a light coming on in my gauges when the headlight wasn't hooked up too. Once all the lights were hooked up everything worked great. If you have other questions about the wiring let me know. I've got two bikes here to compare everything to (though the one bike hopefully won't be here much longer).
------------------------------
Now, some questions for you... what exactly is that 500 tank off of? What is it's capacity? What side is the petcock on? How close do the front C tabs/hooks line up with the studs on the frame? Can you get a picture from the back of the bike with the tank on it so I can see how wide the tank is in relation to other parts? I kinda like the shape and I think it would be pretty easy to lengthen it for my CL360.
Thanks,
Mike
Here is everything together...
Here is everything blown apart...
On my '74 CL360 parts bike, those wires are just connected together. I'm not sure if it works this way, but I don't see why it wouldn't work this way since my non parts bike CL360 has those 2 wires connected using a 2pin connector. There were some numbers, arrows and symbols embossed on the end of that black plug but I forgot to take a picture of it when it was apart. I would gladly take it back apart for another but that "white" 2pin connector it's going into is turning yellow and cracking so I would rather not mess with it anymore.
Also, I don't know how you were testing all your electrical stuff, but I noticed when I was testing mine, I needed both directionals for one side otherwise it would just stay on and not flash. Once the other directional was hooked up it would immediately start flashing. I think there was also something goofy with a light coming on in my gauges when the headlight wasn't hooked up too. Once all the lights were hooked up everything worked great. If you have other questions about the wiring let me know. I've got two bikes here to compare everything to (though the one bike hopefully won't be here much longer).
------------------------------
Now, some questions for you... what exactly is that 500 tank off of? What is it's capacity? What side is the petcock on? How close do the front C tabs/hooks line up with the studs on the frame? Can you get a picture from the back of the bike with the tank on it so I can see how wide the tank is in relation to other parts? I kinda like the shape and I think it would be pretty easy to lengthen it for my CL360.
Thanks,
Mike
