1974 CL360 Overheating

Zoltan

Zoltan

Brooklyn




Here is how she sits as of yesterday. I know I need a fork brace, I am purchasing a new, smaller front tire to allow this.

She is great and pulls hard but after a while she starts overheating and backfiring every two seconds. Eventually have to pull over and let her cool down till I can start riding again. I was thinking that due to some rookie mistakes like putting on the shorter mufflers, and air filters, would be causing her to run too lean and over heat. I have messed around with the floats inside the carbs and right now she's right at 18.5 mm. I also did jet up to a 112 on the secondary jet.

Now, would deviating from the correct float height in attempt to richen her up and or changing spark plugs help solve this issue or would this possibly cause other issues.

I would love some suggestions, thanks in advance.
 
You could try adjusting the jet needles as well. Those control the 1/4 to 3/4 throttle range, which is where most bikes cruise.

Move the clips down a notch to richen things up a little. By 'down' I mean towards the tip of the needle as this will cause the needle to sit higher letting more fuel past from ~1/4 to 3/4 throttle.

Here's a really good article on carburetor tuning: http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm
 
The most important step of this whole setup is PJs modifications.

Guys report back to him their bikes are running great without doing anything more.

I mostly just like messing w mine. And even with Pjs stuff depending on the personality of the bike and the exact set up (filters, pipes and stuff) theres always gonna be a little wiggle room for fine tuning.

So, send those carbs to PJ then report back.
 
I wanna try and get my carbs to PJ this winter, however the bike doesn't seem to be running to lean to cause it to over heat. The timing and cam chain has been checked over and over again. Could valve clearances have anything to do with this? Also would not plugging the tachometer hole possibly let extra air into the engine?

I saw the specs you posted for the carbs on ur website but I don't wanna lean out the fuel mixture by changing the floats, mine are currently right before spec
 
what do the plugs say ???

and how do you know the motor is overheating and its not a bad coil burnt points

bad condenser bad rectifier ect
 
Plugs look alright, little lean. I believe its the motor thats overheating because it happens while riding for a while, and then only restarts once its seemed to have cooled down. I have a brand new r/r, hoping thats not the culprit. I redid the timing with a light today, it actually was a bit retarded, also was missing the bottom F point screw which kept causing the F point to close. Replaced the screw and the bike now idles a lot lower rpms, I probably was idling around 2k maybe even a little over that, I'm thinking this could have been a reason for overheating.

CXMAN: could a bad condenser / rectifier cause the engine to overheat?

I've been doing a lot of reading and theres a lot of top end oil starvation issues with the 360 that could be causing overheating apparently. I'm going to adjust the tappets tomorrow and see if oil is splashing out when I have the tappet screw covers off.
 
there are people here with 360 expertise

i was just trying to figure out how you were diagnosing the "overheat"

if your plugs look good then you dont seem to have major carb issues?

do you have a infa red temp gun

does the motor feel to hot ect

have you looked at the cam shaft journals to check for oil starvation problems and blueing?
 
It could also be a semi-clogged petcock. I had this issue with a bike a couple weeks ago and I thought it was a bad coil or something, but it turned out to be fuel delivery.
 
It would run about 15 minutes after sitting a while (float bowls filled up) and then peter out and die. After sitting a couple minutes it would run again for a minute or so before shutting back down. Really frustrating at first
 
You got that right. I've been chasing an electrical gremlin for weeks. Come to find out, the wiring harness connection for rectifier came loose. That was after I discovered the positive battery terminal was grounding to the frame. Get one thing fixed, find another. The problems on these bikes are like flow charts.
 
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