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What a weekend! Not living that far from UK's campus I somehow managed to not have my car/couch set on fire by the mob after the cats won. I love college basketball and I have always cheered pretty hard for UK but what the hell is wrong with these crazy people who think its all and well to just start turning over cars and setting them ablaze like something out of Mad Max? It was absolutely insane. Just have to make it one more night and I'm not sure if it will be worse winning or losing as far as the crowds go. Here is a pic from the news. "Local police felt [glow=red,2,300]
Code:
[tt]good
[/tt][/glow] about their crowd control efforts from Saturday nights win"....Really, you feel good about this????
Anyway....I finally got the seat mocked up and the frame soda blasted. This was my first go round with any sort of metal work/grinding what so ever and while it was quite fun, I have got to do some clean up on this fellow before I get it to powder coat.
I got the be there for the whole session of blasting and that is really something to watch! It's amazing what a 35 pound bag of Arm & Hammer and some air pressure can do.
It actually started raining while he was doing it but I had driven over an hour to get there so we held a cardboard roof over his head and things rolled on.
I'm gonna make a call about powder coating today. I can not decide if I want to go black or red on this frame. The safe side of me wants to go black but I really think the silver flake tank I am doing would look sharp with the red frame....decisions, decisions...
Spray it with VHT epoxy spray cans,its less hassle and looks better.Epoxy does not need primer.PC is a pain in the butt to spot patch or weld anything to.
I've been doing my research this morning and I am seeing that as a definite option. I understand the "need" to powder coat but you can only empty the piggy bank so many times here! I've read the 400+ arguments/posts about powder coat VS. paint and I'm not going to argue that its better, I'm just not going to go that route. It seems like this stuff only comes in limited colors. I really want to go with a red frame after giving it some serious though this morning, is that an option? Any ideas?
I would guess that there are probably more colors available in powdercoat than there are in epoxy rattle can. <G>
I'm a big fan of powdercoat for a number of reasons, not the least of which that it is generally cheaper than paint.
Here is one source where you can check out the colors. There are also certain combinations of colors that are interesting, like candy rad over top of silver vein.
http://www.columbiacoatings.com/
This is the beginnings of one of those 400+ arguments I was talking about. Let me reiterate that I AGREE on the looks and durability of powder coating. I AGREE that it is a superior looking finish and I AGREE it is the way to go. Some of those Columbia Coatings are incredible looking!
That said......I simply do not see powder coating as an option for me right now with it being $200+. It may be my location but I have called 5 different places and it ranges from $200-$350. I did have one guy who was a 45 minute drive both ways quote me $100 two weeks ago. When I called him this morning he went up to $175. I simply won't do business with someone like that.
I am going to be doing a rattle can job myself and thats the facts. I've seen it done with great results and I am just looking for a little guidance as far as products to use. I'm well aware that its not as pretty/durable/impressive as powder coat but I'm working within my limits here. I'm a little disappointed that I can't go "all out" with everything on the bike but thats part of it I guess.
Yes of course! I thought I had a socket big enough to tackle that bear but I guess not! I'm gonna pick one up after work today and get it taken care of.
Got the frame primed up a while ago. i am in the process of tearing down an old green house and it made the perfect spot to spray......aside from the fact that its disgusting and two squirrels are living in it.
I will recommend getting an All Balls Taper bearing kit for it as well, they make a big difference in the feel of the steering and they take some of the shake out of the bars. I have one in my 360 and I put a set in the 450 I have yet to ride as well.
I will recommend getting an All Balls Taper bearing kit for it as well, they make a big difference in the feel of the steering and they take some of the shake out of the bars. I have one in my 360 and I put a set in the 450 I have yet to ride as well.
Moving right along here...This nice weather is such a great motivator! I'm gonna let these guys cure out for about 7-8 days. I'm gonna start working on the seat and tank here in the next couple of days. I'm glad the internal debate with myself is over on the frame color. It's red and that is that now!
I just kept looking at pics of cafe builds and it was black...black...black...black. I have ridden hondas since I was 11 so I just decided what the heck and went for it. I am really happy that I did but it took a couple weeks of convincing to do it!
I started stripping the tank last night and it was kinda cool finding the old color underneath the newer paint. I guess my bike was one of the red ones! It was like a famous painting being hid behind another painting, only not really that well done...I should have guessed to see the old color since everything else the PO did with the bike was completely half assed.
At this point I am ready to start thinking about wiring. Is there a general rule of thumb on that or just "do what ya feel"? I'm gonna try one of these simplified wiring diagrams but I need to locate a smaller battery for the seat. Anyone know right off what the best one to use with these 360's are? I did some looking around on here yesterday but did not find a definite answer. Lastly, are running LED's as simple as placing the resistor in line or using those with built in resistors OR is it more complicated than that? I found some cool tiny break lights yesterday from this place called microlazers. Here is the link:
I've found 9A/hr sealed AGM battery to be totally reliable (pics in my 360 build/blog somewhere )
You should be able to pic one up for $30.00 or less.
Mine came out of an emergency lighting/fire alarm/smoke detector
If you have 12v LED's you don't need load resistors to drop voltage, get an LED flasher off eBay, it's quickest, cheapest and least hassle
Just a quick primer on LED's and resistors, because your questions imply that you don't know what the purpose of resistors with LED's.
First of all, LED's can't be run naked on 12V. They will burn out quickly. LED's that are intended for 12V use have a built-in series resister which limits the current.
LED's for turn signals are a special circumstance. The standard thermal type flasher requires a certain amount of load to activate its flasher function. When you put LED's in place of the incandescent bulb, there is not enough load for the flasher to work. One way to make it work is the add a parallel resister to increase the load so that the flasher will work. The disadvantage of this is that you lose the power-conserving benefit of using the LED's.
A better solution is a different kind of flasher. An electronic flasher is not load dependent, so it will work without the additional load resister. A thermal flasher is like $4. An electronic flasher is about $12. The electronic flasher often has an additional terminal, (usually to ground,) so it is not exactly a direct replacement. They come with a wiring diagram.
Thanks PJ for the battery recommendation. I will see about getting one of those. 30's sounds better than 90's for a battery!
AlphaDog, thanks for simply spelling this out for me. This makes perfect sense and seems quite simple to accomplish. I started working in the home theatre business when I was 15 wiring up whole house audio/video systems so I understand wiring very well....for sound. I've never really messed with LED lighting what so ever and I always like to do my research. I probably worded it wrong when asking but I was actually thinking about using these little guys as a running/brake light and not adding signals to the bike. I was going to mount the pairs in the opposite bottom corners of my tail section.
It may look 'cool' but I would use something bigger and more easily seen.
I've ridden in groups where people have had either 'dark' lenses or multi-function tail lights and almost run into people as it isn't obvious when they are slowing down or turning.
I'm paying 100% attention, average drive will just run you over or off the road
Being dead isn't cool, not worth the risk in my opinion
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