1976 Gold Wing Swamp Thing

Eat miles they do. I have ridden mine from my house to Kileys a few times in 2 days. That's 2700 KM 1620 miles one way.
 
Well gentlemen I have no idea what kind of ride it's going to be, but once again it's a pleasure and an honour to have you along for it.

Figured I should try and see the old girl's dance moves before I go to town and buy her a fancy ballgown. Thanks to Maritime and Pidjones I armed myself with some reading material -

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- and got to it. Found where you stick the kickstarter -

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- gave the thing a couple of cranks and the engine turned over so that was a good start. Fuses are all good, starter relay fuse too. PB Blaster'd the spark plugs and let that sit for a couple of hours - those things were more of less fused to the head so they took a bit of coaxing. Once they were out they look pretty clean -

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- which can only be a good thing. I mean, hell, it's not a bad thing. At this point I'll take all the positives I can, and live in denial for the rest. Bollocks to it. Sprayed some more PB Blaster into the cylinders and then re-installed the plugs. Checked the oil - there's this little window with a kind of windscreen wiper type deal that you turn with a screw to clean the window for a better view. If that's not enough to make a guy fall in love I don't know what is. So I turned it, fell in love, and ascertained the engine had oil. Old, but oil.

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The radiator and reserve tank were bone dry so they got filled with 50/50 coolant, which then proceeded to leak out of the impeller housing at the bottom of the crankcase. So that'll need a new gasket, no drama. Have a feeling it won't be the only one I'll need.

Jimmied a battery from the CB up and turned the key -

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- first signs of life, albeit rather lacklustre up front. Hooked up an auxiliary tank to the fuel pump, opened the tap, turned the key and hit the start button. Well, whaddya know - gas fountained from the fuel pump, the engine turned over (so I guess the starter motor works) but that was about it. No surprises there, was worth a shot. Turned attention to the fuel pump - unbolted the thing from the crankcase and opened it up to find this -

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- ugly as a blind cobbler's thumb. Fuck only knows what all that shit in there is - looks like a blend of rust, disintegrating diaphragm and poor decisions. Luckily when I bought the bike it came with three spare engines, so pulled a pump from one of them, opened it up and it looked brand new -

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Nice.

Installed the cleaned up pump and that's kinda where I'm at. I drained the battery so that's on trickle - I have no idea if the wrong battery from a different bike is up to the job of getting this beast started but it's all I got for now - I'll order the correct battery this eve. Have a sneaky suspicion that if the fuel pump looked that godawful that the carbs probably aren't that glamorous either. If anyone knows any tricks at this point to just get the bike running let me know. I'll do the full tear down of course - including the carbs - but hoping to at least see some smoke from the exhaust before I do. Or should I pull the carbs first and get them cleaned up? My ambition often exceeds my ability, and as far as 1976 Goldwings are concerned I know precisely almost nothing.

Off and somewhat running.
 
I would strip the carbs first. Needs to be done anyway. That and you're going to have a hell of a bad time trying to get it started.
 
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Learn to pull and replace the carbs. It is a skill you need to feel comfortable with, so you don't dread it. And change the belts!
 
You want my Randakks dvd? I can post it to you Monday?

Thought you’d lost it? Where was it - down the back of the sofa? Under the tool box along with a 10mm socket? Thanks mate - I’ll probably buy it along with the Randakk’s rebuild kit. I’m going to pull the carbs today - judging by the state of the fuel pump I’m fearing the worst.


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You don't need the rebuild kit or the video if you install Webers. Just sayin.
 
Well, carbs are out no drama so cue gratuitous carb hero shot...

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Had to remove the "shelter" first - turns out that thing's not the gas tank after all. I know! I know! Who knew.

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Had a bit of a poke around and damn there's some funky stuff going on in there. Very different to the carbs on the CB, well, different enough anyway. The float valve seat is removable for one thing, and has a little fuel filter on it -

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and the jets are pop-in rather than screw-in and have little o-rings on them -

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There's some pretty gnarly looking brass in there, and looks like the PO had a tussle getting some of them seated -

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Not sure if that bend is going to compromise anything but it's what I got. Not the prettiest carb bodies, but I’ve seen worse -

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So, just spent some hard-earned on the Randakk's carb rebuild kit and doovde, along with a bunch of other parts, filters, cables and a battery. Next up is disassemble the carb bank and give the thing a Pinesol spa.
 
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i got on my first goldwing in the spring of 1975 i still have it and ride it when i go up to canada
i have ridden them every summer since and they have taken me far and wide enjoy your build
enjoy your trips even more. welcome to one of the best bikes ever built
 
The main thing not to take apart is the two carbs on each side, getting the linkages and springs back correctly is pretty hard, and nothing is gained. Just leave them joined and aligned by reattaching the chrome "garnish". Then the plenum can be split and removed from the carbs (don't loose the alignment pins and dowels!) Luckily, there are lots of photos and videos online if you go to far. The emulsion tube needs replaced. Someone got carried away taking it outm probably. The other one ha tangs that locate the jet - they are NOT screwdriver slots! Don't break them off. I made a brass drift with a reverse taper to fit over the part that sticks up and gently drive it out. The body should be Ok as long as the o-rings can still seal. Don't loose the little filters! Only Honda sells them, attached to new float valve$$. If you break a float pivot, there are rebuild kits but avoiding that is much better.

And when reassembled, always leak test (over night) before mounting back on the bike. I use isopropyl alcohol for that to reduce the smell, and what you don't empty will burn. When all back together, it takes a lot of cranking to re-fill the bowls and start.
 
What Pid said LOL. Its not that bad. Also keep all the parts for each carb innits own tub or baggie and label them
 
That's the plan - I'll keep 1&3 and 2&4 attached as it's clear from what I've read that separating them is a thankless task. Well, putting them back together is anyway. I'll knock off as much or the outside crud as possible with brake cleaner. And I've also read that boiling the carb bodies in distilled water for 20 mins is an effective method of cleaning the bodies, and not to use a chemical carb dip as this will damage felt bushings and rubber parts inside them. I wasn't going to do that anyway but was teeing up the Pinesol baths. I've had great results from that in the past with other carbs - does Pinesol get the nod when it comes to cleaning these gl carbs too?

I've had a look online for replacement emulsion tube(s) - is there a go-to place for them? Seems like they're a bit of a tough find. I found removing the emulsion tubes was pretty easy using a sharp pencil - hard enough to get enough purchase but soft enough not to damage the brass. Mike Nixon, take a bow.
 
Pinesol shouldn't hurt. Might discolor a little, but who cares? I boiled '79 carbs in distelled water. Took a LOT of heat and time to get it all up to boiling and hold it there for 20 minutes. I used our big outdoor gass grill. Worked Ok. I had pressure washed the exteriors first. Very important to spray carb or brake cleaner through all passages to check clear. High "E" electric guitar string for the tiny jet. Make sure you pull the pucks and clean the holes under them, too.
 
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