1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build
- Thread starter 620dark
- Start date
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yea, my 360's reasonably quick to 40 or 50 and then a nice walk home after it stalls out on me ;D
I just found more broken bits inside the Interceptor after I pulled the front head. The lower tensioner guide mount is ripped in half. Sigh.
I just found more broken bits inside the Interceptor after I pulled the front head. The lower tensioner guide mount is ripped in half. Sigh.
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Oh I had a pretty good idea what I was getting into especially with your warnings ;D Something something sucker for a pretty face...
The 360 is still doing that thing where the right cylinder won't fire at idle but will idle fine on the left cylinder, and then when it gets hot it won't stay running without the throttle being open. I'm pretty sure it's ignition related, as you went through the carbs and it runs fine at speed, and I have good hot and cold compression. This is why I'm excited about solid state ignitions - I'm worried something's moving around when hot.
I do need to spend some time with the 360 though. Problem is that the weather is nice, so I want to be riding instead of wrenching
And this 750 that's exploded all over my garage...
The 360 is still doing that thing where the right cylinder won't fire at idle but will idle fine on the left cylinder, and then when it gets hot it won't stay running without the throttle being open. I'm pretty sure it's ignition related, as you went through the carbs and it runs fine at speed, and I have good hot and cold compression. This is why I'm excited about solid state ignitions - I'm worried something's moving around when hot.
I do need to spend some time with the 360 though. Problem is that the weather is nice, so I want to be riding instead of wrenching
And this 750 that's exploded all over my garage...
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
I had a cracked intake boot that worked fine cold, but warmed up, bike would stall at idle, miss, hard starting....Let is sit, cold was perfect. New intake manifolds ade a big difference.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Brendon had same issue on his 360, even with new hose clamps it ran hot when hot (plugs a little lean)
Carbs were 'loose' in the intake
Finally had to get new intakes even though they are expensive.
It's scary to check when hot though, slightest spark and entire bike could go up if your using WD40 or starting fluid (unless you have CO2 - it cuts out if leaking)
Carbs were 'loose' in the intake
Finally had to get new intakes even though they are expensive.
It's scary to check when hot though, slightest spark and entire bike could go up if your using WD40 or starting fluid (unless you have CO2 - it cuts out if leaking)
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yea Mydlyfkryzis, I remember you saying that. I see they are about $38 each from hondacb360.com, but there's also an ebay vendor that is selling them for $44 a pair apparently. They state they have VM carb conversion manifolds and also stock manifolds, so I've asked them for more info.
I'm tired of having unreliable bikes, so I'm going to throw the rest of the dollars at the 360 to make it a rider and also make sure I've solved the 650's charging woes. I'd like to sell the 650, but wouldn't feel good selling it with a crappy charging system. Spend money to make money, right?
I'm tired of having unreliable bikes, so I'm going to throw the rest of the dollars at the 360 to make it a rider and also make sure I've solved the 650's charging woes. I'd like to sell the 650, but wouldn't feel good selling it with a crappy charging system. Spend money to make money, right?
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
The benefit from new manifolds is the carbs fall off them for servicing too. I had to use a small pry bar on the old ones. Both to get on or off.
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
Using a pry bar negates the training. I don't think Schwarzenegger in his prime could yank them off
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Hahahah, give me a long enough lever and I'll (re)move the 360 carbs!
I fired up the 360 today and it was hitting on both cylinders, go figure. I tried using a plumbing torch (unlit) around the manifolds to try to find a leak, but I think you guys are right, and that the leak won't appear until the bike gets hot.
So, I put a bunch of miles on the 900 instead. I forgot how tiring long distance high speed highway riding is though!
I fired up the 360 today and it was hitting on both cylinders, go figure. I tried using a plumbing torch (unlit) around the manifolds to try to find a leak, but I think you guys are right, and that the leak won't appear until the bike gets hot.
So, I put a bunch of miles on the 900 instead. I forgot how tiring long distance high speed highway riding is though!
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
It's easy to remove 360 carbs when the airboxes are off
1. apply full choke and remove any drain tubes from float bow
2. remove fuel lines
3. loosen clamps
4. lift up
5. spray WD40 or similar into slight gap underneath caused by hard manifolds
6. push down on carbs
7. spray WD40 into gap at top (caused by.............)
8. Push down on carbs
9. lift up on carbs
10. push down and pull out to right side
11. remove throttle cable now you can get to it easy
When re-fitting, smear some synthetic oil around the inside of manifold
I just had a thought
Have you tried re-tightening clamps when engine is hot?
Living in 'the frozen north' there is a possibility the clamps are just too stiff when cold to fully tighten
1. apply full choke and remove any drain tubes from float bow
2. remove fuel lines
3. loosen clamps
4. lift up
5. spray WD40 or similar into slight gap underneath caused by hard manifolds
6. push down on carbs
7. spray WD40 into gap at top (caused by.............)
8. Push down on carbs
9. lift up on carbs
10. push down and pull out to right side
11. remove throttle cable now you can get to it easy
When re-fitting, smear some synthetic oil around the inside of manifold
I just had a thought
Have you tried re-tightening clamps when engine is hot?
Living in 'the frozen north' there is a possibility the clamps are just too stiff when cold to fully tighten
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
With new manifold the procedure is similar. Remove the fuel lines, loosen clamps, catch the carbs as they fall off.
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
Sent from planet Earth using mysterious electronic devices and Tapatalk
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
Yea PJ, that sounds like my procedure for the carbs. You omitted the required swearing and yelling at the carbs step, however ;D Of course, with pods it's a bit easier
Tightening the clamps while hot makes too much sense. I have reinstalled them when it has been between 60-80, but that might not be hot enough. Hmm hmm hmm!
Tightening the clamps while hot makes too much sense. I have reinstalled them when it has been between 60-80, but that might not be hot enough. Hmm hmm hmm!
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Also there is a self sealing fuel stable tape you can use to wrap the boots to fix any cracks etc. that may be happening when they heat up. it's like 10 bucks a roll and it really works. I'd get that, wrap the boots, then re-tighton them after hot like PJ suggested and it just might fix your issue.
620dark
You can always get it running with time or money.
You know, I picked up a roll of that self fusing tape when it was on sale at the home despot a while back. I'll try that out.
I'm waiting to hear back from Speed Moto Co again, as it turns out they were the Ebay vendor selling a pair of manifolds for $44. For that price, I'd take a chance.
Also, in the name of safety, I have some D3O armor on the way to me. A CE level 2 back plate, and elbow and shoulder pads as well. We'll see if it is everything that it is made out to be.
I'm waiting to hear back from Speed Moto Co again, as it turns out they were the Ebay vendor selling a pair of manifolds for $44. For that price, I'd take a chance.
Also, in the name of safety, I have some D3O armor on the way to me. A CE level 2 back plate, and elbow and shoulder pads as well. We'll see if it is everything that it is made out to be.
mydlyfkryzis
当有疑问时踢你的敌人在生殖器上，你可以道歉后
CB360.com has nice clamps with the shield that keeps the rubber from oozing out the worm holes. I am using them on mine....
also, be careful with the new manifolds, you have to hold the carbs in the right place, as their weight will cause them to fall out or be crooked....They aren't "snap-in" like the old hard boots.
I am hoping that clears it up....
also, be careful with the new manifolds, you have to hold the carbs in the right place, as their weight will cause them to fall out or be crooked....They aren't "snap-in" like the old hard boots.
I am hoping that clears it up....
