1976 Honda CB360T - The first step is admitting I have a problem build

The CB350 uses 5.5mm fuel hose (just about 7/32"). 1/4" will work with clamps. I purchased 3/16" hose in the hopes of heating it up, attaching it, and using no clamps (which I've read works well). The downside is probably having to cut it off every time I need to disconnect it, though I do own a heat gun...I just hate clamps.

I know nothing about the CB360, so this may be useless info, but I just looked into this yesterday, so I figured I'd post...
 
I've been using clamps on mine, and it seems to work ok. I pulled the trigger on some 1/4" line from Amazon, and should have enough to last me the rest of my days - 25' :eek:

S6qtNWPt.jpg
 
I got some AC ducting reflective tape and taped up the bottom of Katana tank.
It seems to make a difference?
You can see pics in my build/blog
 
My tank sits closer to engine than stock 360...

Ive got the self adhesive reflective heat tape on the bottom of my tank as well. It works good under normal riding and most tuning conditions. But apparently not if I let it idle too awfully long. As this time was definitely an exception to that rule.

Also heavy fuel line and heat wrap on the fuel lines. To help insulate from heat.

http://www.amazon.com/DEI-010396-Reflect-A-GOLD-Tape-Roll/dp/B0039Z5TYU/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1398724622&sr=8-15&keywords=reflective+heat+tape
 
I'm going to get some of the gold heat tape and put it over the 'silver' AC reflective tape I intend to use on the XS800
I know 800 is going to run a 'bit warm' ;)
 
Ok, news at (almost) 11...

I pulled the tank cap off and verified the vent was clear. I also ruined the remainder of the tank seal, so now I know it's really venting well ;D I tested the flow of the petcock with and without the cap closed, and it stayed the same, which seemed to be a decent rate.

I was too impatient to wait for the clear fuel line, so I cut up some 1/4" clear vinyl tubing (yes yes, 30 lashes with a wet noodle, and so on, do as I say not as I do, etc etc etc) and installed it in place of my auto parts store special black fuel line. Interestingly, the fuel lines only filled up about half way between the carbs and the petcock. Hmm.

I went for a ride, and had the same lack of power when I hit four grand. I limped the bike home and fitted my new replacement coils, as I discovered that my spare set of coils are now leaking wax. Doh. I still had the same problem of running out of power at four grand. I checked the Pamco e-ignition rotor, and it was tight and nothing had moved. Hmm.

I threw a Hail Mary pass and ran up to the hardware store to get a T fitting for my test fuel tank so I could try replacing the whole fuel storage / supply system. I made it out of Lowe's 10 minutes before they closed with a nylon 1/4" tee (man, 60 lashes with a wet noodle now!), and hooked up my IV system for motorcycles and hung it from the rafters. As soon as I turned on the fuel, the lines filled up completely. Hmm x2

I fired up the bike, adjusted the idle back down to 1300ish, and goosed it. It revved happily up to 5000 RPMs and would have gone higher if I hadn't stopped things there. It looks like I found the issue.

So, it seems that a new new petcock is needed. I see that hondacb360.com has a Japanese made replica for $35, but I'm also interested in aftermarket solutions and other's experience with them.

Here's a one outlet petcock that fits the 16 x 1.5 mm thread on the tank:

http://4into1.com/honda-motorcycle-fuel-valve-petcock-16-x-1-5mm-1/

The balls to the wall option would be to go to a barbed fitting and put an inline shutoff valve. Reserve? We don't need no stinkin' reserve!
 
The outlet on the $17.50 one will be too small, it's designed for the CG125 (weld in another bung and fit 2?)
The CB350/360 you need is $27.50
I would take your original one apart and check all the passages are clear, they get corrosion in them and restrict flow
 
the stock petcock is rebuild-able. www.hondacb360.com has the rubber parts separate. Completely apart, you can lean the ports, install the new rubber pieces and you are good to go...CB360 has the petcock too, if you just want new. I used the rebuild kit and it worked for me.
 
If the back of the operating lever is smooth a re-build kit would be easiest but I've seen (got) several where the flat surface is etched/corroded so will not seal
 
I used the new petcock from hondacb360.com, and l am very happy with it. Definitely stay away from the one(s) that SCI sells. Ask me how l know...


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I'm just gonna make a slight suggestion here, those petcocks are not made out of gold, and lots of venders carry that model. Heck even DCC is cheaper than I expected. Model type meaning the one with the plastic RESERVE SCREEN.

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-fuel-tank-parts-honda-cb450-fuel-petcock-18-4150.html

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR12.TRC2.A0.H0.Xhonda+cb+360+petcock&_nkw=honda+cb+360+petcock&_sacat=0&_from=R40

I believe I bought 2 last year for around $17 a piece with free shipping. At that price its cheaper to replace than rebuild. Never had issues with them.
 
I purchased a new repro a year or so ago (looks identical to the dime city unit) from Ebay or something - it may have been from SCI - and that is the one giving me fits.

I have what bits of the original one came with the bike somewhere, but I'd need to purchase a rebuild kit or cannibalize parts from the SCI? one. I purchased this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221421854916 as it seems to be a slightly different (earlier?) reproduction version than the one I currently have. Here's hoping it works? Guess I need to dig for where I stashed the original one too...
 
The one I bought used a brass screen and has no flow issues, and the spacing on the output nipples is correct. The one from SCI had a plastic screen, but removing it had no effect. The output nipples were very close together, so much so that l had to trim my fuel lines to get both on at the same time. But the passages inside the outputs were the real issue - too small or filled with machining swarf. I was unable to clean them out where they would flow a decent rate of fuel, and finally just returned the thing and bought the one on HondaCB360.com - $42 shipped, but well worth it. A quality worth actually worth rebuilding.


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The one you bought looks just the one from SCI - same tight spacing and a plastic reserve tube. It also has a plastic sediment bowl screen, and that is the one l was talking about removing.


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Take it apart and check all the passages and screens.
I use a 1/8" drill bit on mine, the holes should be close to 4mm so smaller drill is real loose (doesn't damage or enlarge anything)
There isn't anything wrong with the nylon ones, they are actually finer than the brass ones so filter better (and clog up quicker ;) )
 
trek97 said:
Mark fired it up for me...purred like a kitten. He wouldnt take me for a ride though. ::)
Sweet! Pretty sure that's the L72 engine, which is one of the fastest 'vettes. Straight NASCAR. Slightly faster and probably 1000 lbs lighter than the 440 six pack Roadrunner. Too bad he changed out the original dual snorkel air cleaner. They alone are worth over $2 grand.
 
Foolishdreamer said:
The one you bought looks just the one from SCI - same tight spacing and a plastic reserve tube. It also has a plastic sediment bowl screen, and that is the one l was talking about removing.

&*%@! :p The one I just bought looks identical to my original Keihin unit (which leaks like a sieve), the older (not working) one I had has a plastic reserve screen as well. The older one had a brass screen.

Sadly, I wasn't able to use any of the parts off the older one to fix my original. I guess worst case I can use parts from the new one I bought to fix the original. This is a lot of work for a petcock!

PJ, I've a new drill press I'm itching to use ;D
 
deviant said:
Sweet! Pretty sure that's the L72 engine, which is one of the fastest 'vettes. Straight NASCAR. Slightly faster and probably 1000 lbs lighter than the 440 six pack Roadrunner. Too bad he changed out the original dual snorkel air cleaner. They alone are worth over $2 grand.

Damn that's a nice car, thanks for sharing! My Dad's best friend has a '73 with the 427, and with the carb he had on it originally, 5mpg was optimistic ;D I think it's closer to 450 ci now after being rebuilt, but it has a more reasonable carb on it.
 
Worst cb650 ever said:
I think it's closer to 450 ci now after being rebuilt, but it has a more reasonable carb on it.
Did he have solid lifters put in? The hydraulic lifters they put in 'vettes were known for their hp stealing.
 
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