1976 Honda GL1000
- Thread starter john83
- Start date
JustASmith
New Member
Hey, I just wanted to let u know that ur not alone! I have a 77 gl1000 with the left bank (cyl. #2 and #4) running cold with odd throttle responses! The left bank has been this wayway since last year, I had it running really nice even with this issue, then my carb for #4 started spewing fuel so I rebuilt that one carb and once back together I got the weird throttle issue. I've noticed that I have differing volt readings at the points, and when I disconnect the condenser it is the same reading at each set of points, but its only 27 mV or something strange. I'm gonna look into testing the condenser, but now reading this forum I better look into a few other things...like the gas tank!
Here's hoping we can help each other out!
Here's hoping we can help each other out!
john83
Over 1,000 Posts
Rich Ard said:
I need the full ride man. Someone else already tried welding up holes in the headers on mine and I think between that and rust it's beyond repair. The muffler in about the same condition.
JustASmith said:
I think my carburetors need to synchronized in a bad way. Right now i'm on the edge of having the brakes rebuilt and ready to go back on. Once I get that done I'll proceed with the rest.
john83
Over 1,000 Posts
Started taking the rear master cylinder apart the other day. The piston is STUCK inside it's bore. Managed to get one piston out of the caliper but the other is stuck pretty good. My instructor at school offered to help with them and took them home to try and get them out with his air compressor over the weekend. Hopefully that works. Once I get the brakes reassembled I may try and fire it up and tool around the block once or twice.
john83
Over 1,000 Posts
Rich Ard said:Since you're a grown man I will just ask that you look at Troy's GL build thread and look for the part where he tried to take a finger off doing just that. Grease gun forces you to clean the caliper thoroughly afterwards too
Duly noted. Mute point now though, he didn't have any luck with air pressure. Apparently it's more than 150 psi stuck. He had another idea that we'll try out at school one day this week.
Someone suggested that my low compression on one side might be due to bad valve clearances. I'm gonna try to go out and check that here in a bit.
Flugtechnik
My bike is not transportation, it is a respite
HerrDeacon
Over 1,000 Posts
john83
Over 1,000 Posts
Grammar nazi attack!
Anyways, I went out and messed with the bike a little today. As of right now I can get it to run but it still doesn't want to idle correctly. If I rev it up it will hang at about 3,000 and then slowly start to return to idle. Sometimes it'll just drop down below 1,000 RPM and die when it does return. I've checked compression and it seems low. The engine was not at operating temp when I checked it but #1 and #3 read about 145 PSI but #2 and #4 read about 100. The #1/#3 readings don't worry me as much as #2/#4, they shouldn't be that much lower than the other side. How can I determine what my problem might be? I've ready about making a fitting, filling the cylinder with air and listening but I don't have an air compressor. Any other suggestions?
Anyways, I went out and messed with the bike a little today. As of right now I can get it to run but it still doesn't want to idle correctly. If I rev it up it will hang at about 3,000 and then slowly start to return to idle. Sometimes it'll just drop down below 1,000 RPM and die when it does return. I've checked compression and it seems low. The engine was not at operating temp when I checked it but #1 and #3 read about 145 PSI but #2 and #4 read about 100. The #1/#3 readings don't worry me as much as #2/#4, they shouldn't be that much lower than the other side. How can I determine what my problem might be? I've ready about making a fitting, filling the cylinder with air and listening but I don't have an air compressor. Any other suggestions?
Bozz
Coast to Coast
check your valve adjustment on that side first. THen do a compression test with the carbs pulled wide open or off.
If the valve clearances are kosher and the compression is still low, do a leakdown test and see if the valves are seating correctly or if your rings are leaking.
If you see bubbles in the coolant during your leakdown test then the head gasket is shot.
As for your brake caliper, you can get much higher pressures with hydraulics than pnumatics, hence the grease gun suggestion.
the caliper piston is likely corroded and stuck to the rubber seal. soaking it in brake cleaner may help chemically loosen the bond, heat will likely not help.
If the valve clearances are kosher and the compression is still low, do a leakdown test and see if the valves are seating correctly or if your rings are leaking.
If you see bubbles in the coolant during your leakdown test then the head gasket is shot.
As for your brake caliper, you can get much higher pressures with hydraulics than pnumatics, hence the grease gun suggestion.
the caliper piston is likely corroded and stuck to the rubber seal. soaking it in brake cleaner may help chemically loosen the bond, heat will likely not help.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
John. When you checked you used the right piston positions?. There is a chart and you check #1 piston both valves @tdc1comp stroke and like just the intake on 2and ex on 4 then rotate 360 and check remaining. If you do it any other way you can end up with valves way tight or way lose. If you dont have the chart let me know Ill post the page for you.
Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my MB525 using Tapatalk 2
john83
Over 1,000 Posts
I've got the chart in my Haynes manual. I know I used it the first time I checked the valves. This last time I just made sure that each rocker was off the cam lobe when I checked the clearance. I will probably go back and do it again using the chart and see if I get anything different.
