johnridemotorcycle
New Member
Tank has been professionally painted. There is POR-15 clear coat on the bare metal parts, gloss black base coat, then clear coat over everything.
The seat is hand made from fiberglass and has 2 layers of foam, one low density and one high. Harley Davidson fake leather stitched and wrapped at upholstery shop. The electronics are hidden underneath.
The battery is beside the rear master cylinder and is big enough to run the starter.
New rear Forsa shocks.
4-way adjustable front brake lever with new master cylinder from a late model sport touring Suzuki 900. New grips and clutch cable.
Carburetors are Mikuni Mark II's.
22k miles. I've been working on this bike for the past eight months, we can talk about all the details if your interested. It's been fun but there are now other ways I would like to spend my time. Title in hand. $1700 takes it.
Expect a couple little projects before making this your daily driver, nothing that involves much money.
There is a tuning issue in the mid rpm range - this is demonstrated in the videos. I do know it has the wrong style pilot jets. It has the bs30/96 style that is commonly included with rebuild kits. The correct pilot jets are vm22/210.
http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/Mikuni_Jets.gif
Starter button - The original was working until it fell out. The new one I put in does not work, it only pushes in about a 1/3 of the distance the original did. It is likely I installed it wrong. The kickstart lever is removed as the gear was not engaging correctly. The bike is very easy to push start, or the starter can be jumped with cables in the mean time.
Petcock - The brand new petcock is defective and still flows a little when in the off position. I would suggest putting an inline fuel valve after it for a simple fix. Since it flows while the bike is sitting, a tiny bit of gas leaks past the closest carburetor and into the motor. If you come and look at the bike and like it I will change the oil so you can test ride it.
Oil Leak - It leaks a little through the oil pan gasket. I fixed this once with some type of silicone, but it was not heat proof and burned away.
1st gear - Sometimes it does not go in the first try. The idle rpm is currently set higher than it should be to keep the motor from stalling since the carburetors are not tuned properly. In the past if I lowered the idle and keep it running by playing with the throttle I can not recall a time where it did not go into 1st gear perfectly first try if I shifted in while dropping the revs. With a raised idle, if it does not go in 1st first try, a shift to 2nd gear then back down is all it takes.
Crank case breather filter - It needs one.
No rear lights - turn signals each have two wires and are laid out underneath the seat and labeled with the three wires for the brake light. I would suggest ebay for some low profile lights you could tuck away somewhere.
Cosmetically - !The Motor! Once this motor receives a fresh coat of paint and the polishing is finished you will have yourself a pretty amazing looking machine. Most of it has been wire brushed and sanded down smooth to where I felt new paint would adhere well. On the right hand side of the bike/where the identification number is - that 5 inch or so area (including the crank case breather port) towards the center of the motor from the side cover has been sanded down to bare aluminum. The black you see is from a sharpie marker. There is a little bit of pitting on the upper part of the forks.
Included is the rear view mirror, set of crash bars, original front fender, and starter motor cover.
Click 720HD for best quality. Read video description on youtube for more info
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMCFjuMz0V8
Tuning issue -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngbnUyFNINc&feature=plcp
The valve noise (ticking) is how these bikes are supposed to sound. References:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34575
http://www.biker.net/roadtest/xs750d/xs750d_cycle.htm ---- Bottom of fourth paragraph.
The seat is hand made from fiberglass and has 2 layers of foam, one low density and one high. Harley Davidson fake leather stitched and wrapped at upholstery shop. The electronics are hidden underneath.
The battery is beside the rear master cylinder and is big enough to run the starter.
New rear Forsa shocks.
4-way adjustable front brake lever with new master cylinder from a late model sport touring Suzuki 900. New grips and clutch cable.
Carburetors are Mikuni Mark II's.
22k miles. I've been working on this bike for the past eight months, we can talk about all the details if your interested. It's been fun but there are now other ways I would like to spend my time. Title in hand. $1700 takes it.
Expect a couple little projects before making this your daily driver, nothing that involves much money.
There is a tuning issue in the mid rpm range - this is demonstrated in the videos. I do know it has the wrong style pilot jets. It has the bs30/96 style that is commonly included with rebuild kits. The correct pilot jets are vm22/210.
http://www.mikesxs.net/parts/Mikuni_Jets.gif
Starter button - The original was working until it fell out. The new one I put in does not work, it only pushes in about a 1/3 of the distance the original did. It is likely I installed it wrong. The kickstart lever is removed as the gear was not engaging correctly. The bike is very easy to push start, or the starter can be jumped with cables in the mean time.
Petcock - The brand new petcock is defective and still flows a little when in the off position. I would suggest putting an inline fuel valve after it for a simple fix. Since it flows while the bike is sitting, a tiny bit of gas leaks past the closest carburetor and into the motor. If you come and look at the bike and like it I will change the oil so you can test ride it.
Oil Leak - It leaks a little through the oil pan gasket. I fixed this once with some type of silicone, but it was not heat proof and burned away.
1st gear - Sometimes it does not go in the first try. The idle rpm is currently set higher than it should be to keep the motor from stalling since the carburetors are not tuned properly. In the past if I lowered the idle and keep it running by playing with the throttle I can not recall a time where it did not go into 1st gear perfectly first try if I shifted in while dropping the revs. With a raised idle, if it does not go in 1st first try, a shift to 2nd gear then back down is all it takes.
Crank case breather filter - It needs one.
No rear lights - turn signals each have two wires and are laid out underneath the seat and labeled with the three wires for the brake light. I would suggest ebay for some low profile lights you could tuck away somewhere.
Cosmetically - !The Motor! Once this motor receives a fresh coat of paint and the polishing is finished you will have yourself a pretty amazing looking machine. Most of it has been wire brushed and sanded down smooth to where I felt new paint would adhere well. On the right hand side of the bike/where the identification number is - that 5 inch or so area (including the crank case breather port) towards the center of the motor from the side cover has been sanded down to bare aluminum. The black you see is from a sharpie marker. There is a little bit of pitting on the upper part of the forks.
Included is the rear view mirror, set of crash bars, original front fender, and starter motor cover.
Click 720HD for best quality. Read video description on youtube for more info
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RMCFjuMz0V8
Tuning issue -
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngbnUyFNINc&feature=plcp
The valve noise (ticking) is how these bikes are supposed to sound. References:
http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34575
http://www.biker.net/roadtest/xs750d/xs750d_cycle.htm ---- Bottom of fourth paragraph.
