xb33bsa said:and also why the riser clamps should be radiused as well
Yes indeed!
xb33bsa said:and also why the riser clamps should be radiused as well
jpmobius said:Usually I am on the other side of this conversation, but I doubt you will have any problems with the bars. That is indeed a mighty big hole, looks like it would have been better to make a slot with a die grinder - next time maybe. Great idea to smooth it out though. Street bike bars generally have a pretty easy life - stay off the moto X track and maybe a good idea to soft land those wheelies. Failure is very unlikely to be instantaneous, but if it does get a fatigue crack and you don't pay attention and notice it, it might seem that way if it does indeed start cracking - depends tremendously on the heat treating. Carefully cleaning up those holes will help a lot in preventing it. Try bending it now by hand - use enough force that you feel is within the range of likely use. If you can not damage it I'd run it and keep an eye on it. Do the bend test every so often. If it does start to crack you'll likely notice before it falls off in your hand. And if you are riding one day and you notice that grip starts vibrating differently - wake up!
Going to stay tuned for the turbo/hat challenge (dohc has a sense of humor after all!)
deviant said:How wide is that switch? Most clutch perches are 1 - 1.25" from the end of the grip. Weakness of the bar aside, I wonder if you have too far a spread for the lever. You might need finger extensions. I thought about getting one of these switches too, and always wondered how big the switch body is. It's a shame how big it is. I also hope there's room for your connectors. Doesn't look like it from my seat.
xb33bsa said:that blue switch housing plastic could have been trimmed down quite a bit as well, corners rounded and and overall cut back without ruining it ..plenty of meat there to gain the use of a smaller barhole,thats the way ide doit
like mjoboius was promoting it is not likely to break street riding ..;.but the alloy and treatment, makes them bars not like localized bending ,they do fine flexing a bit as a long spring, but the hole takes that longness away and any load will concentrate the flex in one really short zone,the one thing to avoid and also why the riser clamps should be radiused as well
jpmobius said:Yes indeed!
haha i ferget what they are called butthey are handybananas said:What's that tool called? I was planning to just carefully chamfer using a dremel tool + sanding bit.
CarbsAndCylinders said:Typically, that switch would be on the other side of the clutch lever bracket. However, if you did place it on the other side then there would be a greater leverage upon the holes that you drilled. Why don't you contact the manufacturer of your handlebars and ask them about drilling holes in them. They should know what is best.
I am enjoying your build and also how you accept the criticism and your openess to learn. I wish you success in this build.
Brian
xb33bsa said:haha i ferget what they are called butthey are handy
the idea on the riser clamps is just an easing of the sharp edge where the bars enter the clamps lots of risers clamps are already done but you could do it with a pocket knife even aluminum carves like butter
Yep.hillsy said:.
It would be pretty funny asking a handlebar manufacturer if it would be OK to drill their bars - as if they would say anything other than "no fucking way".... ;D
DohcBikes said:Yep.
Chamfer all you want. It's not going the give the bar its strength back.
The bars are ruined you should change them. This is not a small issue, it'll kill you.
Harley bars are larger in diameter and made of steel.Alex jb said:Sweet build!
I wonder if any of the chopper guys have ever managed to fail a bar after installing one of these?
After all, Harley's shake like a sh!tting dog, that may be enough to start a stress riser crack!