1979 GS750e: Project "Metric Mutt"

Das- theres an 1100 at the shop right now that you can look at, and my buddy has a 750 gixxer that you can have a look at to see what might work as well. If you come by the shop I can show you how to tackle the valve adjustments on your 400. I'll be there this afternoon. Or give a call and I can stop by your garage on the way over.
 
Big R said:
Das, I don't know hardly anything about the GS's, but isn't the front end off of a 1100 used a lot? I've seen a few swaps, but just can't remember from what to what.....

Thanks for the tip! I still need to check out the 1100 at Diesel450's once the XS is running quiet.

diesel450 said:
Das- theres an 1100 at the shop right now that you can look at, and my buddy has a 750 gixxer that you can have a look at to see what might work as well. If you come by the shop I can show you how to tackle the valve adjustments on your 400. I'll be there this afternoon. Or give a call and I can stop by your garage on the way over.

Hey Diesel, thanks again for the valve assist! You are right about it being scary working on an engine for the first time. There's this lingering fear FUBAR is just around the corner. I'll heed the advice and wait until tomorrow morning for the readjustment.

According to Clymers the cam chain is adjusted automatically. Should I attempt a manual adjustment?
 
GSXR1100 USD front end (91-95, pre watercooled) is the preferred swap as the forks are longer than the 750 which preserves your ride height. Bearings are the same, so it's pretty much a bolt on fit (you may need to fab steering stops / spacer for top clamp).

Stock auto camchain adjusters are crap - best off getting a manual one. I think APE still does them.
 
With valves its almost impossible to get it perfect. Things move. My feeling is err on the side of a tiny bit loose that way there is ample clearance and you won't burn the valves. That's why I always shoot for the middle of the acceptable range. If you re-adjust and they're still as noisy as they were today check with Chris, he has more experience with em than I do. It sounded pretty chattery.
 
hillsy said:
GSXR1100 USD front end (91-95, pre watercooled) is the preferred swap as the forks are longer than the 750 which preserves your ride height. Bearings are the same, so it's pretty much a bolt on fit (you may need to fab steering stops / spacer for top clamp).

Stock auto camchain adjusters are crap - best off getting a manual one. I think APE still does them.

I checked ebay for the front end you recommended. There are several that fit the description. Many thanks! It doesn't look like APE makes the manual adjuster for an XS400 anymore or at all. I'll see if there are any used out there.

diesel450 said:
With valves almost impossible to get it perfect. Things move. My feeling is err on the side of a tiny bit loose that way there is ample clearance and you won't burnI not the valves. That's why I always shoot for the middle of the acceptable range. If you re-adjust and they're still as noisy as they were today check with Chris, he has more experience with em than I do. It sounded pretty chattery.

The engine likes to slip sometimes from LT to LF and same for RT, so I used a bungee cord to hold the wrench/engine in place. It may have moved when the bungee didn't seem necessary.
 
Detail originally made for cages up for consideration. Made of chrome and weatherproof, it might look great on tank sides or more subtle & sexy on top inside of swingarm. Measures just over 3x3 inches and only $4.00 each with shipping on ebay.

5749-138-front-manufacturer-emblem-.jpg
 
Update

I decided to go with a clean, brushed steel look for the tank & tail. No paint or decals, except possibly a small DTT logo. Before/after pics up sometime this week. Frame will be painted gun metal grey or similiar.

Other:
Wrapped headers (black)
Bicycle computer mounted in front of tank
Replacing LED Versa-light with custom brakelight to embed in tail; preferably from salvaged vintage part. Open to suggestions.
 
It's slow progress, but I am resolute. Now I'm looking for something to help with removing fine rust stains. I've tried various types of abrasives with a hand grinder and drill, but nothing seems to work. Some type of acid was recommended, but I don't want to destroy the tank.

Photo1090.jpg
 
it looks pretty sweet, if the PO didn't bondo my tank up, I'd have probably gone in that direction. speaking of the versa-light, what are you going to do with it? I might have a use for it. ;)
 
Thanks, brainrush. I returned the versa-light for store credit. It's easy to find on the internet though; for instance: http://www.chromeglow.com/catalog.asp?prodid=612624&showprevnext=1

Finally bought the Clymers on ebay. I'll start to strip the bike down once it arrives.
 
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