1981 Yamaha SR250 Cafe Racer

Ok here's the scoop on the kick starter. One day I stumbled across an Ebay listing for a kick start assembly shaft that listed the SR250 along w/ several other bikes. In the description it said it fit a 1980-82 SR250, 80-83 XT250, 80-82 TT250 and believe it or not 1987 -88 BW350s which are 3 wheel ATVs. After watching Ebay for a while I found a complete kick assembly for an 81 TT250 w/ the lever for cheap. Problem is when I went to install it I realized that I needed some other parts to make it work. Mainly the idler gear to actually connect the kick start to the flywheel and the ratchet wheel guide to disengage the ratcheting part of the kick starter. The kick start assemblies can be found on Ebay if you look hard enough and are patient. The rest of the other parts can be bought at www.boats.net surprisingly by searching the part numbers. The part numbers can be found by going to www.powersportspro.com and clicking the "original parts" icon which allows you to look up all of the parts diagram for a 1980 Yamaha SR250 including a kick starter. I wound up using that site to make up my parts manual by printing off the parts list and right clicking the diagrams and saving the images to print out full size to go along w/ the accompanying part numbers. All together it's costing me around $100 for all the parts. Unfortunately I don't need the part I ordered from New Zealand after all. I was going off the parts diagram for a TT250 and appearantly they needed a lever decompression assembly which is what I ordered. Of course when I went back to get the rest of my part numbers I went to the SR250 diagram by mistake and realized I didn't need that part after all. Fortunately I'm only out $23 and hopefully I can resell it on Ebay to recoup some of my costs since it's a very rare part it seems.

The coincidences just continue as far as our bikes go. I just started using "Ken's Electrolysis Setup" as well on my tank wednesday at our weekly bike night at my buddies place. I stopped by last night to check the progress and was amazed at the amount of rust and sludge that came out after the fist day of electrolysis. I thought my tank was a lot cleaner than it really was it seems. Hopefully after a couple of days it'll be close to good as new. I still need to primer and paint the tank but I do have the emblem spots all filled in and sanded as well since it's darn near impossible to find new Yamaha emblems for that bike. At least for a price I'm willing to pay. ;)

You'll have to send me a detailed step by step on how you cleaned and painted your engine and what paint you used. I absolutely have to paint it after seeing yours. I was even planning on polishing the bowl on the carbs just like you wound up doing. You'll also have to fill me in on how you got the cast aluminum cam shaft cover polished up to the same finish as the rest of the covers. I wound up stripping some of the paint off mine when I first got the bike and power washed it and would love to get it to match the other covers.

Also what did you use to smooth and polish the cylinder chamber? I talked to a local cycle shop and they quoted me only $25 per cylinder to hone mine and a friends bike so it can't be very difficult. I know Sears sells a craftsman honing tool for $25 or so that works w/ a hand drill so I'm tempted to pick one up and try it.



Noah
 
Hey,
To polish all the engine components I started off with a a good degrease and wipe down, then ran over them with a wire wheel on my grinder and brushed all of the broad surfaces clean of oxidisation, then used a wire brush and various smaller brushes on a drill and sandpaper to get into the nooks.
Any rough parts I ran over with sandpaper (about 320 grit) then hit them with a green kitchen scouring pad and autosol, then with a coarse buffing wheel (orange) with the red compound, then the fine buffing wheels (white) with the white, then green diamond rouge polishing compounds. Please make sure you wear a mask and eye protection .. the fibres tend to fly off the wheel and it's not going to be good for your lungs.
 
For preparing the motor for paint I used an industrial solvent-based degreaser called D-20. I soaked it in this before pressure washing it. I did this several times, then wire wheeled all of the surfaces I could get to. I then wiped the motor down with acetone, and got in between the cylinders with a small screwdriver and a rag soaked in acetone, allowed everything to dry and then painted. Engine enamel is pretty forgiving but keep applying it in several light coats or you'll get gluggy runs (like I did the first time due to my impatience!).
 
Hey all,
Just put the front end together (still having issues with the fork seals.. I may have to machine the legs out and sleeve them, it's getting very frustrating!) and put my unfinished 'bobbed' front fender on to see what it looks like .. I like it .. I dig those fork gaiters I found on eBay too!

n704951495_1546417_5404.jpg
 
I like the gaitors, look nice. Any issues with getting them to stay put at the top? How are they secured there? I was going to get them for my bike but there is nothing at the top for them to slip on over.
 
man that looks great! i am sure you haev tried but have you heated the fork seals? sometimes they stick in there and a torch on the outside of the leg will help it let loose
 
JRK5892 said:
man that looks great! i am sure you haev tried but have you heated the fork seals? sometimes they stick in there and a torch on the outside of the leg will help it let loose

Yep, mine didn't even think about coming out until I heated them up. Once warm I was able to pry them out with a screwdriver.
 
Hey,
The fork gaiters have a lip on the edge at the top you can put a cable tie around to keep it there. Do you guys like the lines of the cut down guard? I am happy with it .. I just need to finish shaping it, then sandblast, prime and paint. I found these on eBay from somewhere in Malaysia, and they were pretty good to deal with. They had a lot of genuine parts for bikes like the SR250, and smaller Honda's that are still popular over there.

I had to break up the old oil seal to get it out .. it was really, really stuck in there. Probably been in there since new. It was rock hard.

I have tried heat, a drift, pressing, everything I can think of and the oil seal won't go down to it's seat by about .. 5-8mm? I think the top of the fork leg has gone out of round, given the type of stresses they are subject to during braking and cornering, it's possible it may eventually oval out that hole, which would explain why the original seals were so difficult to release.

It's time to put them on the lathe and spin them out round .. but some accurate measuring will be required, and if they are too out of round they will either need to be sleeved (very tricky machining) or more likely replaced.

Damnit .. I spent so long polishing them, and it made such a mess :p
 
Okay here's where I'm at .. I've decided to re-wire the bike from scratch. I tidied up the original wiring and it worked, but I've had a couple of problems so I'm making a new loom - which I'll detail in this thread.

It's always bothered me that the loom (and most 70's bikes) have a single fuse for all of the electrics, and sometimes no circuit breaker at all on the starting circuit. They're often not weatherproof either.

If you have a fuse blow on a ride .. you have no idea what's done it!

I'll rewire it with a circuit breaker on the starting circuit and individual fuses for the lights, indicators, etc. with quality Narva gear. I've mounted a waterproof, aluminium components box under the tail which will house the fuse box, flasher unit etc.

I've made a template for the seat base and will begin fibreglassing it soon.
 
Can't wait to see what you do. I'm getting to the point where cleaning up the wiring will get done and hope that's all that's required, but who knows.
 
wiring... ahh my least fav... and that is how i got started working on bikes ha ha ha ... ooh well... post some pics man that is the part i am ALWAYS trying to get better at would love to see and learn from what you are doing
 
I love wiring .. I'll try and document it so I can write up a tutorial that will be relevant for people tackling old bikes.
Cheers,
Ben
 
i agree with JRK. screw wiring. takes all the fun out of building when it goes wrong...
thats why i have member johnson_steve make me a new racing system set up for LEDs, and cut all the usless crap out.
 
What kind of seat are you going to use? I've been visualizing my bike with a flat cafe style seat but I just realized the other day that the stock side covers won't look right at all since they're tapered to match the stock seat profile.
 
I'm fibreglassing a seat.

As you know, on SR's the frame rails aren't straight and dip in the middle by 50mm so I'll be making a fibreglass lay up of the base of the tank (where it mounts) down to the end of the frame rails.

I intend to create a fibreglass pan which I can build up to be almost level with the base of the tank, so once it's covered and foamed, it will be level. To bring it up level I will glass in aluminium spines. This isn't going to be a plug, it will be the seat so it must be light. I will lay another sheet of fibreglass over this, to create a honeycomb.

On the rear of this will be the hump, which I will be making of high-density foam.

I hope you understand what I mean .. otherwise well, I will be taking photo's!

I've always loved the look of the Manx Norton's, so I think I will be styling mine along those lines, and covering it in leather, with piping along the edges and "YAMAHA" stitched in on the rear of the hump.
 
I absolutely love the Giuliari seats made for the RD's back in the 70s but they cost a fortune IF you can find one. Here's the 2 styles I like best.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&item=230312260600
and http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220323642596&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=


What are you going to do for side covers if any at all? My thought if I were to go without side covers was to ditch the air box, put a pod on the carb and move the battery to the center of the frame and make a custom aluminum box for it that I would polish to a high shine.
 
It's funny you should mention that .. here's what I did this afternoon ..

I took a die cast aluminium electronic components box I got for free when my mate Doug was cleaning out his garage, cleaned it up and mounted it between the frame rails where I measured the end of the seat I'm making will be. I attached the rectifier to the bottom. There will be an inner guard to protect this from the spray from the wheel etc and it will get plenty of airflow.

I then took some 25mm x 25mm x 1.0mm aluminium angle and fabricated a mount for the battery, which I bolted to the front of the components box which is very sturdy and attached to the frame in four places. I need to add a brace at the front and a hold down but it's pretty much done. It's riveted at the moment until I can weld one up as I can't weld aluminium here.

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Here it is mounted on the bike .. I will brace the battery mount to the cross brace on the frame in front of it with some flat bar.

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And a view from the side. The battery I'm planning on using is 15cm high, so will be level with the highest point on the frame rails. Everything will be under the hump!

n704951495_1572013_4530.jpg
 
I assume the rear fender won't be going back on with the battery mounted back there. Right now I'm still planning on having a rear fender, whether it be the original or one off a friends CB350 to hug the rear tire more. I'm not going all out cafe style with the clubman bars and such since my back won't take the abuse but I am putting some super sport handle bars with about half the rise of the current bars. I'm mainly looking at the flatter cafe style seat in order to move back further on the seat. It's all still a work in progress so I'm not sure exactly what the bike will look like when I'm done. :p
 
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