1982 450 in a nighthawk cam tensioner

Tstang429

New Member
I am in the process of doing some maintenance on my nighthawk. The bike was not maintained well by the previous owner and I am planning some big rides next season. Two things I am looking to do this winter are adjust the valves and adjust the cam tensioner. I understand how the tensioner works get motor up to operating temp remove nut while running and it "should" Self adjust. Does anyone have any insight. Am I inviting more problems doing this? She does have a little rattle but I have learned that that is not out of the norm for this bike. Valves are a piece of cake done many of times on small block Chevy's. I just get really nervous around cam chains especially after my car slipped timing when a tensioner failed and put me over 600 in parts to rebuild the top of that motor.
I have already done a lot of maintenance over that last two years. New drive chain and sprockets new tires flushed the brakes new front brake pads adjusted rear brakes. So now its onto the nitty gritty maintenance now that the easy stuff is over.
 
Ok and there's no way its going to get Looser right? Sorry I just get squeamish with cams. I know it sounds funny I can build a push rod motor from parts but get to ohc and start questioning things. Valves after tensioner correct?
 
If the tensioner is not stuck, it will go where it should.


yes, tensioner first, then valves, then sync carbs.
 
I always found the best way to do them was during service.
'We' always checked they were working properly when valve cover was removed
The rattle is far more common from the balancer chain tensioner, I don't think I've ever done one that didn't need clutch cover removed to re-set the the adjuster quadrant, if not at first service then by 2,000 miles
 
You can guarantee it's loose, no one want's to pay for clutch cover gasket so it may never have been fully adjusted
 
Ill look up procedure on how to adjust that you have any tips or things to watch for? I have to paint my case halfs anyways so just makes it easier to tell the misses yea i need this to get it running better not to make it pretty :). Bike has almost 20k on it.
 
The procedure isn't in the manual, in fact I'm not even sure there was even a service bulletin? (can't remember from 1978 ;D )
There are two nuts on the quadrant, 12mm and 14mm. Loosen the 14mm first, it holds the adjuster onto splined shaft. Then remove 12mm, remove 14mm, pull quadrant, rotate shaft counter clock if I remember right, re-fit quadrant so it has full adjustment and tighten everything back up (12mm first to hold things in position)
It's pretty self explanatory when you get in there
 
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