1982 gs650g

L

LowellGS

New Member
Hey hows it going everyone.

Been sitting in the background for a couple months now checking things out.. Amazing stuff everyone. I dream of building a bike as nice as some of the ones in Show n Shine.
Picked up a 1982 Gs650G. Drivetrain. Bike was sitting for 9yrs, wasn't starting, or anything. I put in a new battery, oil, plugs whole nine yards. Wouldn't start. So I did what any intelligent man would do. Took the whole thing apart.

Well I have lots done

Bike is totally in pieces. Top end is off. Everything is labeled. Wiring looks pretty good.

Just finished up scraping gaskets. Which i have to say is the devil's doing. Ridiculous. I have no idea how people can do that all day long.

I'm picking up a 1987 sportster to ride for the summer, so I'm strapped for cash now

I'm more or less using this thread to help me out with a list of reminders and some much needed advice.
To button up the engine i need to find a gasket kit

And the carb boots scews are siezed in there.. And stripped. And those grababit wont work. I actually broke it off in a screw its so badly siezed in there.
Also i know they have stainless bolt kits
Do they have Brass kits???

I need a new tank to make a seat out of using the stock seat pan and I'm probably going to hammer in knee dents as there is already a dent there.
Going with KN pods with DJIII kit. Have to figure out how to do that
4-1 exhaust
clubmans
bar end mirrors
Relocating the electrical to the butt stop. That should be fun.
I'm going to mock it all up.. Tear it down. Chop off unneeded tabs, make new needed tabs and supports


I'm a bigger guy So i need to pull as much power out of this engine as possible. Any advice on that end? Easy things i can do with limited tools.


So you know I'm completely new to bikes. This was my 1st bike and the sportster will be my first bike I've ridden. I'm somewhat mechanical but no pro by anymeans.


Thanks in advance for everything

Some pictures.

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My organizational skills
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I'm a bigger guy So i need to pull as much power out of this engine as possible. Any advice on that end? Easy things i can do with limited tools
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I've got an '85 GS850G, and I'd steer clear of dynojet kits. I've never been much of a fan of prebuilt kits and generally do the work myself for carb tuning, which isn't too hard and can be done with limited tools!

If you're after a 4-1 setup and pods, you'll want to jump up 4 sizes in mainjets for starters and see how the bike responds. I've just done the same to my GS and its a world of difference, jumping from stock to 4-1, pods and 135 mains (115 stock) saw a good topend improvement without compromising low and mid throttle performance.

You could also go one-up on the gasket kit, and use a thinner copper head gasket. From the numbers I've run in the past, a copper head gasket 20-thousandths of an inch thinner than the compressed thickness of the stock gasket will bump compression moderately and let you take advantage of higher octane fuels. My 850 runs 8.8:1 stock ratio and the 20 thou thinner gasket will bump it to around 9.5:1 - nothing drastic, but enough of a change to make a difference.

Cheers, and welcome to motorcycles - boingk
 
Yeah man, welcome to the 2 wheeled fun.

Assuming you don't already have one, get yourself a impact driver. They are worth their weight in gold when you need it.
 
boingk said:
I've got an '85 GS850G, and I'd steer clear of dynojet kits. I've never been much of a fan of prebuilt kits and generally do the work myself for carb tuning, which isn't too hard and can be done with limited tools!

If you're after a 4-1 setup and pods, you'll want to jump up 4 sizes in mainjets for starters and see how the bike responds. I've just done the same to my GS and its a world of difference, jumping from stock to 4-1, pods and 135 mains (115 stock) saw a good topend improvement without compromising low and mid throttle performance.

You could also go one-up on the gasket kit, and use a thinner copper head gasket. From the numbers I've run in the past, a copper head gasket 20-thousandths of an inch thinner than the compressed thickness of the stock gasket will bump compression moderately and let you take advantage of higher octane fuels. My 850 runs 8.8:1 stock ratio and the 20 thou thinner gasket will bump it to around 9.5:1 - nothing drastic, but enough of a change to make a difference.

Cheers, and welcome to motorcycles - boingk
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Sounds good..
Where would i find a copper head gasket?
Also where would i find main jets not in a kit?
 
I'll post up a link of the eBay guy I get them off, but you should be able to ask at a local dealership. I found it a pain in the rear trying to get jets (small town) so went to eBay for help. Heres the guys store: http://stores.ebay.com/SMEBIKE If you can't see the mikuni large round-headed mainjets, ask him for some. Hes good to deal with.

You'll be wanting the 'Mikuni Main jet large round head' type jets, they also come in hex headed style for other styles of carby. I'd leave them until you fit the intake and exhaust parts that you want, as these will dictate the jets you need.

A copper gasket could either be custom made or obtained from a specialty performance store. I'd be betting on it being custom made by a performance/race shop, you know, the ones where they have a machine shop and actually work on things...not the big clean bolt-on places that don't get down and dirty. See if you can have a good talk to them, and ask about some uprated cams while you're there. A set of 'stage one' cams would be great, just mention you want a bit more kick out of the bike but don't want to sacrifice reliability too much as you'll be using the bike as an everydayer.

Check this site out as well: thegsresources.com

Hope that helps a bit, anything else just shoot me a PM - boingk
 
I was on the Gs resources a lot and to be honest it wasn't my style. Felt to cookie cutter? i guess idk. Got a lot of grief too for being completely new and not knowing things.

I'm probably going to put off the egine work till I'm done with the rest of the bike. See if i can raise some dough and give the engine to a shop to do completely.
Id rather they do a great job once. Than me do an okay job and then have to take it somewhere to fix it. Specially when I'm going to be putting upgraded parts into it.

Thanks for the link for the jets though.
 
LowellGS said:
I was on the Gs resources a lot and to be honest it wasn't my style. Felt to cookie cutter? i guess idk. Got a lot of grief too for being completely new and not knowing things.
Click to expand...

LOL - really? I used to hang out on there regularly a few years back and I thought it was a pretty tame site. But like any brand specific site, there's always some red neck who will come along and see your "non-stock" mods and say "the poor bike...." ::)

LowellGS said:
I'm probably going to put off the egine work till I'm done with the rest of the bike. See if i can raise some dough and give the engine to a shop to do completely.
Id rather they do a great job once. Than me do an okay job and then have to take it somewhere to fix it. Specially when I'm going to be putting upgraded parts into it.
Click to expand...

That's probably a wise move if you don't feel confident re-building a motor, but just don't expect a shop job to be cheap :eek:.

Good luck with it ;)
 
LowellGS said:
I was on the Gs resources a lot and to be honest it wasn't my style. Felt to cookie cutter? i guess idk. Got a lot of grief too for being completely new and not knowing things.

I'm probably going to put off the egine work till I'm done with the rest of the bike. See if i can raise some dough and give the engine to a shop to do completely.
Id rather they do a great job once. Than me do an okay job and then have to take it somewhere to fix it. Specially when I'm going to be putting upgraded parts into it.

Thanks for the link for the jets though.
Click to expand...

Great information on the resources board. I mostly just gather info there now as my interaction with them was not appreciated. lol

Unless there is something wrong with the bottom end of the engine I wouldn't do a thing to it. They drag raced the crap out of the GS motors because they were so stout. The top end is just an air pump. Really simple.

Good luck.
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-1981-83-GS650-Carburetor-Kits-4-TAS-/380238193757
that is the carbs rebuild kits for the 4 carbs. 3 days left on the auction. i would buy these now (they look to be really well priced), and order your new mains through whoever on the net.


MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:


Typical Exhaust Changes:

+2 main fuel jet size for custom 4-into-2 exhaust

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for 4-into-1 exhaust

or

+4 main jet sizes for no muffler (open headers)


Typical Intake Changes:

+2 main fuel jet sizes for single K&N filter (inside a stock airbox)

or

+2 main fuel jet size for drilling holes in the airbox with stock filter

or

+4 main fuel jet sizes for individual pod filters (no airbox)



Additional changes:

- Add up all the main fuel jet size increases and subtract 2 sizes.

- Decrease main fuel jet size by 2 sizes per every 2000' above sea level.

- Under a mis-match condition, such as when using pod filters with a 100% stock exhaust, or 4-into-1 header with stock filter and air box, then subtract 2 main fuel jet sizes.


PILOT FUEL JET SIZES CHANGES NEEDED PER TYPICAL MODIFICATION:

Pilot fuel jet size changes are related only to the change in main fuel jet sizes according to the main fuel jet size formula described above. Note that this pilot fuel jet rule is for the main fuel jet size change BEFORE any main fuel jet altitude compensation is factored in:

Increase the pilot fuel jet size +1 for every +3 main fuel jet size increases.

Additional changes:

- Decrease pilot fuel jet size by 1 for every 6000' above sea level.



PRECAUTIONS:

- Make sure your carbs are in perfect working order before making jet changes....meaning fully cleaned internally and rebuilt, operating properly in their stock configuration, proper sized air jets and needles, etc. Otherwise, you'll like find that all of your efforts are going to be a HUGE waste of time.

- Check plug color often and adjust as needed, 2 main fuel jet sizes at a time and 1 pilot fuel jet size at a time. Bright white plug insulators are a sign of an overly lean fuel mixture condition and WILL cause damage to your engine over time, up to and including engine seizure!

- Synch the carbs after each jet change.

- Make sure the floats are set correctly

- Seriously consider purchasing a Colortune Plug Tuning kit.

- You may find it necessary to make changes to the size or shimming of the main jet needle. There are no guidelines on what or how to do these changes, this is true trial-and-error tuning!



EXAMPLE:

A 1982 XJ550RJ Seca using an aftermarket Supertrapp 4-into-1 exhaust and a single K&N air filter in the stock, unmodified airbox. Bike is primarily operated at an altitude of 2600 feet above sea level.

XJ550 Seca Stock Mikuni BS28-series Carb Jetting:

#112.5 Main Fuel Jet
#35 Pilot Fuel Jet
#70 Main Air Jet
#170 Pilot Air Jet
4GZ11 Needle


MAIN FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

Changes made:

Exhaust:
4 into 1 with Supertrapp = +4 Sizes Main Fuel Jet

Intake:
K&N Pod Filters = +4 sizes Main Fuel Jet
----------------------------
Equals: +8 main fuel jet sizes above baseline
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet size per formula above
----------------------------
Equals: +6 main fuel jet sizes due to modifications, thus:

Stock main fuel jet size is: #112.5
+ 6 additional sizes
= a #118.5 main fuel jet size
---------------------------
Subtract: -2 main fuel jet sizes for Altitude of 2500' Average

= #118.5 calculated from above
-2 jet sizes for altitude adjustment

= a #116.5 main fuel jet size.


PILOT FUEL JET SIZE CALCULATIONS:

The formula is: +1 pilot jet size increase for every +3 main jet sizes increased.

Stock pilot fuel jet size is: #35
+ 2 additional jet sizes (since we went up +6 main fuel jet sizes before the altitude compensation was factored in):

= a #37 pilot fuel jet size.

Note that no altitude compensation is needed on the pilot fuel jet since our elevation is less than 6000' a-s-l.

it is awesome advice for anyone running pods and a 4 into 1
this it should give you an idea later dude.
 
Yeah, thats good info for sure. Kinda why we should sticky my 'Tuning' thread...hint hint ;D

- boingk
 
That's a fairly decent guide to start with, but don't RELY on it. My old GS1150 needed an up in the main jet but a DECREASE in the pilots when I put on a 4-1. You really have to tune your engine according to what it actually needs, not what it should need .
 
Well said, hillsy. Which is part of what I go into with the theory and guide in my thread over in the tech board.

- boingk
 
Ok well.. not much of an update.. top end is completely apart still

Been riding the harley and doing little things on it so i haven't spent anytime on the GS

I having the hardest time finding a gasket kit. Whenever i order one i get an email a few days later saying its out of stock.

I still need to finish with the frame. Taking off the kickstands and stripping everything.

Been working alot, but soon enough my schdeule is changing, next week, so I should be able to get alot of work done on it.

Not sure if I will be buying a new set of carbs or just the 3rd carb as the float post is broken on it.

It also took me like 6 months to get all the gaskets off... I hate taking gaskets off.

Thanks
 
Okay need some help..About to just get someone else to do the engine work.. but I am just gonna push through with it I think

Just ordered a gasket kit for it.. Should be coming soon
About to order a stainless bolt kit


Here's my questions. The engine is a greased pile of dirty shit..

Should i clean piece by piece or just put it all back together and then degrease the hole thing at once??

I just tried to do one part of the top end, and it didn't work at all. Left the degreaser on for about 8m and washed it off with a hose. Nothing.. Did a little bit longer of a soak with the degreaser and nothing again..

Also bought some airplane strippe to start with the frame,brake calipers,tank, and other shit. Any advice with that??

I'm gonna do some searching right now to see if I can answer my own questions.
Ill post up some new pics too soon
 
How into the motor are you?

Airplane stripper is good stuff - just take the warnings on the label very seriously.
 
The heads are off. Pistons exposed. Never got around to take them out but the rings look fine. Cylinders are in great shape. Probably no need to even do a rebuild...
I'm thinking I should just put the engine back toether and then degrease it and paint it and stuff.
 
Since you have the jugs + stuff off, id clean them now. Get a bigger drain pan for a car, fill it with cleaner / degreaser and just go to town. Its a lot easier to get in all the nooks and crannies while its apart. Just protect your skin from chemicals and dont let anything flash rust.
 
Sounds smart

What cleaner/degreasers do you recommend?

Also. I'm not good with the correct termonlogy. But the part that holds the vavles I should not do a bath with it becasue it will destroy the valves. Right?
 
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