1983 Suzuki GS750E Cafe/Brat/Tracker? or whatever
- Thread starter dilbone
- Start date
It's not been a good weekend for vehicles at my house...Sat morning the prius was dead and the 12v battery wouldn't take a charge, this morning the F150 wouldn't start...would crank but no fire, wife's old car...PT cruiser totally dead not even a dome light. Sheesh...
Once I at least got the prius battery to take a charge after removing it and charging it in the house I got out to the barn to wire in this new rec/reg.
I bolted it in place and cut/stripped the stator wires. The FH012AA equivalent bolt holes lined up perfectly.
I have my connectors and shrink tube at the ready
Soldered on
Wired up and ready to go
here it is at idle
It definitely sticks out a bit further than the old one, but the wires seem to fold down alright. Voltage goes up to just over 14.3volts while revved near 5000rpm...much better than the old one.
Once I at least got the prius battery to take a charge after removing it and charging it in the house I got out to the barn to wire in this new rec/reg.
I bolted it in place and cut/stripped the stator wires. The FH012AA equivalent bolt holes lined up perfectly.
I have my connectors and shrink tube at the ready
Soldered on
Wired up and ready to go
here it is at idle
It definitely sticks out a bit further than the old one, but the wires seem to fold down alright. Voltage goes up to just over 14.3volts while revved near 5000rpm...much better than the old one.
After wiring up the reg I adjusted the air mix screws because the idle was hanging so badly the last time I had it out. I opened them up to 3 turns out and it was a bit better, so I took them to the full 3.5turns out and it was def the best it has been. The idle smoothed out and the bike seemed to run much better at low throttle positions although once fully warm the idle still seems to hang a bit. I'm thinking about picking up some new pilots, 40's maybe. Otherwise, it is definitely running the best it has at this point.
I really need to get some paint on the bare metal and get the rest of this wired up so I can get this out on the road for real.
I really need to get some paint on the bare metal and get the rest of this wired up so I can get this out on the road for real.
Yeah, I wanted to make sure and check at 3.5 turns out knowing that was the max limit for effect on mixture.hillsy said:
I'm thinking the mains are good right now at 125's, once I get above 5000rpm at WOT it pulls like a train.
Midrange still seems sketchy but I've already shimmed the needles about .058" which seemed fairly substantial to me but I can't find any numbers on suggested needle heights.
Ok, tonight I realized I am either a total idiot or just an old senile sob....I was in the barn getting the seat hoop section and front seat mount bracket hit with some self etching primer so I could get some black on the bare metal before I go any further.
I looked over at the work table and see carb slide springs laying there next to some old carbs off of another bike and I think nooooooo, those can't be, I couldn't have, there's no way... yep I forgot to put the springs back in when I assembled the carbs....
Wow, I'll have to see what the bike is supposed to run like after putting those back in before I go ordering any jets. Sheesh...I must be getting old
I looked over at the work table and see carb slide springs laying there next to some old carbs off of another bike and I think nooooooo, those can't be, I couldn't have, there's no way... yep I forgot to put the springs back in when I assembled the carbs....
Wow, I'll have to see what the bike is supposed to run like after putting those back in before I go ordering any jets. Sheesh...I must be getting old
I finally got the springs back in the carbs and took it for a ride. It is definitely smoother in the midrange now that the slides aren't flying to the top with no springs in there...*shocker*
The idle still hangs quite a bit, so I think upping the pilots may still be in order.
I got to looking at the wiring for the lights and started to sort through that figuring out what was what. I originally had planned on running the tail/brake light wires through a hole I drilled in the bracket, but I decided to use the original wiring connectors and just splice it onto the new light. Some solder and shrink tube and it came together.
I picked up an electronic flasher for my blinkers...turned out that the ground and the power leads were opposite of where I needed them for the orientation of this relay so I was able to pop those out of the clip and put them in the right place to get the blinkers working. I still have to get the holes drilled in my headlight ears for mounting the front blinkers, and after that the speedometer is about the last think to sort out...and figure out why the front brake light switch isn't working.
Hopefully these are bright enough in the daylight.
The idle still hangs quite a bit, so I think upping the pilots may still be in order.
I got to looking at the wiring for the lights and started to sort through that figuring out what was what. I originally had planned on running the tail/brake light wires through a hole I drilled in the bracket, but I decided to use the original wiring connectors and just splice it onto the new light. Some solder and shrink tube and it came together.
I picked up an electronic flasher for my blinkers...turned out that the ground and the power leads were opposite of where I needed them for the orientation of this relay so I was able to pop those out of the clip and put them in the right place to get the blinkers working. I still have to get the holes drilled in my headlight ears for mounting the front blinkers, and after that the speedometer is about the last think to sort out...and figure out why the front brake light switch isn't working.
Hopefully these are bright enough in the daylight.
I've been piddling with the bike on and off with not much to show.
I finally got out and wired in the headlight. I used bullet connectors and shrink tube to get that done.
Next I needed to get the front blinkers installed but I needed a hole in the headlight ears because I just didn't feel like making other brackets for them.
They look ok I guess...keeps me legal and I think they'll be bright enough to be seen.
Then I got out my speedometer and tried to figure out the best place to mount it...when I realized it was a KmPH unit...
seriously...how did I not notice before now. Oh well, now I've got to figure out what to get to replace this one...at least I only spent $16.95 on it.
I finally got out and wired in the headlight. I used bullet connectors and shrink tube to get that done.
Next I needed to get the front blinkers installed but I needed a hole in the headlight ears because I just didn't feel like making other brackets for them.
They look ok I guess...keeps me legal and I think they'll be bright enough to be seen.
Then I got out my speedometer and tried to figure out the best place to mount it...when I realized it was a KmPH unit...
seriously...how did I not notice before now. Oh well, now I've got to figure out what to get to replace this one...at least I only spent $16.95 on it.
I do have an old speedo from my yamaha sx650 that I might hook up and see if it works for this. It won't have any of the indicator lights on it, but I'm not sure I care enough to spend more money on it....especially if I end up picking up a different tank. I don't like not having a tach, but I'll get used to it I suppose.
I finally got a few minutes to hook the old xs650 speedo up to the 750 to check it out.
I also downloaded a GPS speedometer app on my phone so I could compare and see if it was going to work. That's what the tape on the triple tree was for. The speedo was dead on with the gps, although I didn't get going too fast.
I also downloaded a GPS speedometer app on my phone so I could compare and see if it was going to work. That's what the tape on the triple tree was for. The speedo was dead on with the gps, although I didn't get going too fast.
Been getting a little done here and there but haven't had time to update.
I needed to change the case of the speedometer because it had some damage
But I had to cut a new notch for the trip reset knob
I cut some 1/8" plate for a possible bracket for the speedo
I made a little bracket to fit the back of the speedo that I'll weld onto the arc once I get it fit correctly
I needed to change the case of the speedometer because it had some damage
But I had to cut a new notch for the trip reset knob
I cut some 1/8" plate for a possible bracket for the speedo
I made a little bracket to fit the back of the speedo that I'll weld onto the arc once I get it fit correctly
I had to grind a little notch in the speedo bracket so the clutch cable wouldn't be in a bind and got my holes drilled
I sat the speedo on the arc and traced a section to remove so I could weld in the small bracket
Welded up and painted...I should have taken a smidge more off with the grinder, but it's fine I suppose.
It's getting there...still need to fab side covers and find a different tank
I sat the speedo on the arc and traced a section to remove so I could weld in the small bracket
Welded up and painted...I should have taken a smidge more off with the grinder, but it's fine I suppose.
It's getting there...still need to fab side covers and find a different tank
After getting the speedo mounted I finally got around to replacing the plug caps and plugs. The caps had some dry rot on the boots and the plugs looked terrible. After I got that done I took it down the road and it was running better than ever...for about a mile. Then it started to cut out on me and was acting like it wasn't running on all 4 cylinders. This would come and go, but it was mostly acting up with an occasional few moments of normal running.
I got it back to the barn and noticed cylinders 1 and 4 pipes were just warm not hot. I thought maybe the plugs were fouled already, but they were clean as a whistle. I checked the resistance on the primary and secondary of the coil and it all checked out in specs. I even put the old caps back on 1 and 4 just to make sure it wasn't those. No change.
Finally I checked the wires going to the coil. The white one was a little suspect and turned out the wire was actually broken inside the insulation. I was able to solder a new spade connector on and fire it back up again.
It runs better than ever right now. It pulls pretty well through all throttle positions, but I didn't have time to really put it through the paces and I don't have tags or insurance on it yet so I kept it close to home. I still make go up on the pilots since the air mix screws are maxed out right now, but overall it is running much better than it has been.
I got it back to the barn and noticed cylinders 1 and 4 pipes were just warm not hot. I thought maybe the plugs were fouled already, but they were clean as a whistle. I checked the resistance on the primary and secondary of the coil and it all checked out in specs. I even put the old caps back on 1 and 4 just to make sure it wasn't those. No change.
Finally I checked the wires going to the coil. The white one was a little suspect and turned out the wire was actually broken inside the insulation. I was able to solder a new spade connector on and fire it back up again.
It runs better than ever right now. It pulls pretty well through all throttle positions, but I didn't have time to really put it through the paces and I don't have tags or insurance on it yet so I kept it close to home. I still make go up on the pilots since the air mix screws are maxed out right now, but overall it is running much better than it has been.
Well, I got tags and insurance on it yesterday and kinda wanted to take it out and put it to the test, but one of the fork seals is so bad I didn't want to spray fork oil all over my jeans. The OP actually had the new seals still in the package amongst all of the pieces and parts when I loaded it up in the truck after I bought it.
I was actually doing some searching today about the seal replacement on these with the anti-dive stuff and all when I came across a thread on gsresources about this fork seal tool "seal mate." I decided to make something similar out of a fingernail polish remover bottle out of the recycling bin and at least give it a shot. I'll be darned if after running around the seal a couple of times and pumping the front end several times that there is no leak whatsoever anymore. I would never have expected that. I don't know how long that will last, but it at least puts it off until I end up breaking this down for paint after I ride it for while first, find a new tank, and make side covers.
I was actually doing some searching today about the seal replacement on these with the anti-dive stuff and all when I came across a thread on gsresources about this fork seal tool "seal mate." I decided to make something similar out of a fingernail polish remover bottle out of the recycling bin and at least give it a shot. I'll be darned if after running around the seal a couple of times and pumping the front end several times that there is no leak whatsoever anymore. I would never have expected that. I don't know how long that will last, but it at least puts it off until I end up breaking this down for paint after I ride it for while first, find a new tank, and make side covers.
japstar said:please elaborate
Here's a link to the thread I was reading. The OP has a link to the site of "seal mate" which has a video demonstrating their product. The rest of the thread is guys talking about making their own from a thin piece of plastic.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?196240-Before-you-replace-fork-seals-try-this-little-guy
