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So she's been stalling out when I'm cruising to a stop sign. This almost always happens if I slow down in 2nd, and sometimes in 1st. Is it the clutch? Maybe when I think I've got it pulled in all the way, it's not quite there, so that's why it stalls. Anybody?
Double check your clutch adjustment to ensure that it is realeasing fully. Also check your carb synch and throttle setting to make sure it is not fully closing and choking out the engine. Last idea i would have would be to check the pilot circuit and make sure that when you are closing the throttle it still is getting a fuel flow.
How does it run when started and idleing normally? This could rule out the throttle and pilot issue perhaps. Big Rich or some of the more mechanically inclined can probably chime in with some better diognostics. I'm learning as i go.
Thanks Gary. The clutch adjustment is what I was thinking and is gunna be the first thing to get checked. It sounds like it starts a little low and idles somewhat low; current tach is busted so couldn't tell you where it sits at. Other than that starting/idling is pretty normal. Also just learning as I go along myself so all help/advice is definitely appreciated.
Well the two inches of spring snow we got here grounded all my riding plans. However, my new-to-me speedo and tach are comin in soon (Thanks Gary! UPS took them back to the shipping center so I have to wait another day), then its new drag bars, grips and a bar end mirror. Can't decide if I want to wire up the tach while I'm in there or if I'm gunna hold off until I do some carb work this winter. All I really need is the speedo.
Couple questions for you 450 rockers: 1) if you removed the idiot lights and gear indicators, did you take the whole thing out of the clutch case? Or did you chop the wires and leave the indicator switch screwed in? 2) if so, how did you get rid of the 20 different startup safetys? I can post photos if its unclear what I'm talking about.
I chopped off the wires where they come out of the case.
Don't know what you mean by "20 different startup safeties." All mine had was an interlock switch on the clutch lever, which I removed and bypassed. I did that mostly because it meant two wires fewer that I had to squeeze through internally wired bars. There is no safety interlock that involves what gear the bike is in or the kickstand.
I would suggest somehow implementing an oil pressure indicator light, however. I wasn't running one and ruined my bottom end from low oil that was caused by overheating in two hours of traffic on a 102 deg day.
I've heard some other things on the oil light and am thinking of how to best implement that in the front end set up I have now. Thanks for the input, Alpha. Mine actually did come with a safety that the bike won't shift out of neutral if the kick stand is down somewhat. Ripping that off soon. I asked as I wasn't sure that the blue wire from the indicator out to the diode array is really for.
Going about checking this and that the other day when I noticed a gas smell from the air filter box. I wiped up some of the excess oil that seemed to pool up in the bottom of the box, but if there is gas in the air filter what should I check? My guess is the PO just used some heavy air filter oil but my buddy says it smells more like gas to him.
Leaking petcock comes to mind. Check your oil for a gassy smell, and don't try to start the bike without pulling the spark plugs first. If the cylinders are flooded, you can bend a valve with the spark plugs in.
Thanks Big Rich. Its definitely leaking something on my buddy's garage so you might be on to something. However, it was running a few weeks ago before I put her up to make some mods. How could the cylinders have flooded in that time?
The cylinders can flood in a matter of minutes. It's the same affect as leaving the petcock on prime - the floats in the carbs "should" stop the carbs from flooding with gas, but they don't always work for whatever reason.
So there's no gas smell in the oil, Rich. Forgot to check the plugs though to be sure. Will do in the next day or two and then we'll go from there.
In other news, wiring is almost working. Blinkers don't blink, they just stay on, so I'm going to slap on a flasher relay I guess? Anyone feel free to let me know if I'm wrong here.
An inline resistor would REDUCE the current being drawn. Load resistors are sometimes used parallel with LED turn signals in increase the current draw to make the flasher work properly. This defeats some of the purpose of using LED's.
Get an electronic flasher. They cost more, about $12, vs. $4, but they will flash properly with the smaller load of LED turn signals. Many electronic flashers have a third prong. That usually needs to be grounded. It will come with a wiring diagram.
If you check your local truck stop they have heavy duty electronic flashers that are usually $4.00 to $8.00 us. They are durable, long lasting, and best of all cheap. I have used the truckPro brand and they have never ran more than $8.00 a piece on the high side.
If you use resistors you defeat the purpose of the LED signals.
Thanks for the input gents. I'll let you know what happens.
I'm looking for some 2-1 headers as the next big upgrade (along with carb clean/rejet/new air filters). Anybody selling theirs or know where to get one that doesn't cost $300? It'd be killer if somebody on here was making them for DTT members.
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I'm learning as i go.
