1990 KZ1000 police cafe build

[two-smoker]

I was actually going to say the same thing- cv carbs need filters to have enough vacuum to lift the slides. I have made that mistake many times....

 

[KZsAll]

Ok bud lets see if we cant narrow this down some more. Just listening to the videos something is off. The motor though smooth doesnt sound right to me. So here are some thoughts. With the bike idling how much exhaust flow do you feel. I know a choked exhaust will cause flow problems and maybe the source of your pain. I know you have gone through it over and over but a quick question just to eliminate it from my mental checklist, you didnt swap cams did you? IE exhaust cam in intake and vice versa. Im 99.9% sure you didnt just want the nope confirmation for elimination. Sorry dont remember this one, did you clean the carbs? If so did the needle jet at the bottom of those pain in the rump slides get put back on the same slot. That would run you rich at idle as well. Just making sure to kill any possibilities. Ignition issues normally will manifest in the upper rpm ranges when your really driving the coils. However you can use a multimeter and your manual to make sure the base readings are correct. I dont think the just off idle situation you have is a ignition problem. Sounds like its bogging, more than popping, and that is either Air or fuel. Like posted above some aircleaners may help the slides to react but in the second video I did notice they are trying to move almost instantly and of course would drop just as fast as its bogging. So in that it looks like your good there. Pull your exhaust (which I dig the paint) at the slip fitting leaving the head pipes in place and fire her up. See if the problem is still there. If its not its the mufflers being clogged and you have the solution. Take a look at some of these items and let me know the results. Im posting a couple links for videos of my 1100 running (before I worked on it). Though its not a great recording listen to the idle characteristics of the motor. Yours should be pretty close. Hope we get this solved for you. Later and good luck!!!!!!

http://youtu.be/9L7DrxOhFDw

http://youtu.be/1jEEICCXFnQ

 

[danejurrous]

I might have to say I am inclined to agree with Autotek and Two-smoker. I have similar CV carbs on my 750 and a few years back when I had originally built the carbs and the engine fired it up and idled really well but when gave it any throttle damn thing would kill out. Had an odd thought to cover part of the carbs with some ducktape allowing some restriction and it throttled up quite nicely. If you haven't checked it with some filters on it first I would start there, they need a little restriction to run correctly.

 

[haplo_84]

The BS34 are notoriously finicky if they don't have proper back pressure on the carbs to operate the slide cylinders. cause i did the same thing on my KZ1000k.

 

[roman_dog]

Thanks for the help and support guys, but once again I'm stumped. First thing I tried was the air filters, but no dice as the grand fix. However, I did notice that with the filters installed, I was able to pull the throttle much farther with less popping. You can hear the rush of air through the filters as well. So, would this leave to problem to fuel? The jets are all clean though...

KZsAll - yup, cams are in their proper places and the muffler wasn't even installed (I made my own custom one). I then put it on just for fun but no change. These particular needles don't have notches for adjustment, just the one circlip.

Just for the sake of argument, and for lack of anything else to do, I decided to pull the plug wires as it was idling. Just one at a time, but pulling 1 or 4 hardly had any effect at all. Pulling 2 or 3 nearly killed the engine and gave all the symptoms of a misfire. Food for thought? The pickups are in good working order, as far as resistance readings go.

 

[KZsAll]

Glad you went with the filter thing like the other guys stated. My CV Carb experience is really rusty and I normally just yank them off and go with normal carbs or even more now after market fuel injection. So the ignition thing is really peaking my interest in this. I lost a plug wire once on a trip back on #1 and it did make a huge difference in how the bike ran. Then on a second trip lost a coil completely and it was only running on two cylinders also a huge difference. Assuming you have two coil packs like I do you have 1/4 connecteced to one of them and 2/3 to the other correct? Seeing how these use a wasted spark system if its firing on 2 out of 4 then all 4 are getting fire at the coil tower end. Spark plug wires in good shape? Seeing how you stated 1 and 4 made almost no change at all check voltage to the 1/4 coil. While your there make sure your connections are good and tight. One other check would be the spark test on the plug wires. Pull #1 plug and ground it to the engine and crank. See if the plug sparks. (HIGH VOLTAGE So dont zap yourself) If you have 1/4 cylinders on the same coil and no spark with this test the next would be checking what you can on the Ignition module. 1/4 may not being told to spark. That would explain why it sounded off in your videos. Keep us posted. Talk to you again soon.

 

[Nebr_Rex]

Thanks for the help and support guys, but once again I'm stumped. First thing I tried was the air filters, but no dice as the grand fix. However, I did notice that with the filters installed, I was able to pull the throttle much farther with less popping. You can hear the rush of air through the filters as well. So, would this leave to problem to fuel? The jets are all clean though...

KZsAll - yup, cams are in their proper places and the muffler wasn't even installed (I made my own custom one). I then put it on just for fun but no change. These particular needles don't have notches for adjustment, just the one circlip.

Just for the sake of argument, and for lack of anything else to do, I decided to pull the plug wires as it was idling. Just one at a time, but pulling 1 or 4 hardly had any effect at all. Pulling 2 or 3 nearly killed the engine and gave all the symptoms of a misfire. Food for thought? The pickups are in good working order, as far as resistance readings go.

1/4 coil is your problem.
Check the resistance of your coils against what the manual list.
If you need coils go to Z1 ENTERPRISES, <$40.
As for your carbs,if they're the original bs34s they do not like pods.
They can be tuned for them though.
Check KZRider.com for the forum.
If you do a search for bs34s with pods you'll get a whole bunch of post on the subject.
As for your came timing,being off one tooth is not a deal breaker.
It will run,but not quite rite.
Swaped cams is not a big deal either, on the j motors they're the same lift and duration( earlier KZ1000s have a teach drive gear on the exhaust and different lift specs..)

8)

 

[roman_dog]

Well, I should have mentioned in my last post some more details of my coils. The resistance readings for both coils are the same: primary windings on both measure out at 3.2 ohms (even though the book calls for 1.8-2.8 ohms). As I understand a low resistance reading is worse though. Secondary windings come in at about 12,300 ohms, which is right in the middle of the range. All plugs and wires are new, and I'm getting strong spark from them all. Today I swapped the coils and again tried pulling off the wires as it was running. Again 1 and 4 had little effect on how it sounded, 3 shocked me, and I didn't pull 2 (didn't feel like getting shocked again, haha).

Last night I also went back to square one and pulled apart the carbs and triple checked everything again, completely recleaned them. If there was ever a doubt in my mind that something was missed, its now gone, those things are clean. Also verified the float level, all are proper. I tried pulling hard on the throttle and got a backfire out of the carbs too. I'm running out of ideas guys, might be time to just call an actual mechanic and see if they can fix it.

Thanks for the input Rex, I'm on KZRider as well. So far I haven't found anything to help solve this issue, but the search continues...

KZsAll- I don't think I'll do it myself, but that fuel injector conversion sounds intersting, are there kits availiable?

 

[Nebr_Rex]

Check if you are getting 12 volts to the coils,especially 1 & 4.
Then check resistance in those wires.

 

[KZsAll]

Man I was really hoping this would be working for you now. Its extremely hard to diagnose something without actually being there. Id try those last two things Nebr_Rex said and then it may just be time to do the professional thing. Sometimes just bringing in the fresh set of eyes is all it takes. As for the conversion there isn't anything exactly for a conversion. The closest thing would be from a 1982 system and installing it. However I wouldn't recomend that route just due to the limitations of the system itself. Theres no way to reprogram for mods. However if you ever where interested there is a abundance of aftermarket systems that can be set up for it. On the KZ440 build I am going to use a Microsquirt/Megasquirt system. Fully customizable and alot of people have used them on everything from single cylinder dirtbikes up to V12 monsters. They definitely are capable and of all the aftermarket systems are the least expensive. Of course that price comes at the cost of being more an experimental system than a full blown production system. I been working as an avionics technician for the last 20 years so the electronics area is my realm. Should you ever been interested in that type of conversion I will be glad to help. Until then I will keep thinking about the issues you are having and see if there is anything else that comes to mind. Good luck and hope this gets going for you very soon.

 

[roman_dog]

Yup, I'm just going to call a mechanic for this engine. Hopefully he looks at it, calls me dumb, and fixes it right there. BTW, my coils were getting the proper voltage. I'm stumped. Anyway, I decided to build a few tabs for the frame where I'm mounting the muffler and rear brake res (I accidentally cut it off). I also made the form for my front fairing; I opted to build one to hide the wiring going to the instruments. Drew upon the lessons learned from when I glassed my seat and the process went much smoother. I also took my seat pan in to have an upholstery shop build a seat. Can't wait to see it done! Here's the pics:

this is how I started out.

started building it up.

final shape.

and glassing it.

 

[KZsAll]

Really digging the fairing. That is going to look sharp. My best wishes on your mechanic getting it working for you. Can't wait to see your excitement when shes running right. Took the GPZ out for a short last weekend while the weather was nice. Love riding that bike. Keep us posted.
Alien

 

[roman_dog]

Furious with myself right now. AFTER I got all the mounting tabs aligned and welded for my muffler and I stood back to admire my handiwork did I notice a pretty big problem. Its right in the way of my chain! Damn it all, I dug my old worn chain out of the scrap pile and ran it on the sprockets, sure enough the muffler is right in the way. I knew that something was too easy about it, Murphy's Law and all. So I guess I'll just notch it out, I'm not worried about decreasing the volume of the muffler, it doesn't do much anyway. Gotta notch it out and maybe run a tensioner for good measure. Newbie mistake (which is ok since this is my first build right?).

BTW, this is NOT the chain thats going back on the bike.

 

[KZsAll]

If our builds went perfect everytime we would never learn anything and it really wouldnt be much fun. That is an interesting muffler. What was your inspiration? Make sure to post a picture of the solution. Measure twice cut once then repeat till its right. lol.

 

[Autotek]

Good time to repack it, right?

 

[roman_dog]

If our builds went perfect everytime we would never learn anything and it really wouldnt be much fun. That is an interesting muffler. What was your inspiration? Make sure to post a picture of the solution. Measure twice cut once then repeat till its right. lol.

Thanks. I wanted to go with a Buell kinda thing, I love how they featured the underslug mufflers. I couldn't fit anything under the frame if I wanted to use the stock head pipes, so I fabbed this up to fill that gap in front of the rear wheel. Broke my heart when Harley shut Buell down.

 

[roman_dog]

Added another layer of glass to my fairing, then turned it over and built up some structure to keep it rigid. Its also will provide a mounting point. Then I pulled off my muffler and notched out that troublesome part thats blocking my chain. With the notch installed the chain has clearance, but I may put a roller on there just in case. I think it may contact if the swingarm extends down all the way down. We shall see when I get it put together...

where I need to cut it out.

 

[KZsAll]

Looking good. I really hope your notch works out for you just like you planned it. That fairing is really going to look sharp on there.

 

[MotorbikeBruno]

Looking good. I really hope your notch works out for you just like you planned it. That fairing is really going to look sharp on there.

Agreed! notch looks like it will do what you need.

 

[roman_dog]

So I ran the chain again, and I don't like how close the chain is, even with the notch. I don't really have a good place to mount a proper tensioner, so I've opted for a roller in that notch I just made. The local skate shop was kind enough to provide me with some old wheels and new bearings for $5. This here is now a multi-purpose muffler, haha.

Here's the brackets I made for the roller:

The chain isn't tight in this pic, its just sitting there.