360 Clutch STAYs Engaged..
- Thread starter DC74inc
- Start date
frogman
'74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
First off we see you, can back off the huge font.
If the clutch is still off the bike, make sure the plates and what not are not all stuck together. If it is put together then you need to adjust the clutch correctly.
Start at the handle and loosen the adjustment there completely. Then move down to the sprocket cover and loosen that adjustment completely. Now, take a 12 MM and flat head screw driver and loosen the nut on the side of the cover. NOW turn the SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you feel it just touch something. THEN turn it CLOCK WISE about a quarter turn and LOCK the nut in. Go back to the cable adjustment at the top of the sprocket cover and adjust it tight until you have about a 1/2" of play AT THE HANDLE. Use the handle adjustment only for fine tuning, all major adjustment should be made at the cover.
NOW with the bike off, pull the handle. You should feel clutch disengage, and if the bike is in gear on the floor you should be able to push it. Mine is sorta resistive IF its not running but if it is its fine. IF that all works you are done with that for now.
IF after all that, it still won't work, I would pull the sprocket cover and inspect the mechanism. Make sure the cable hasn't popped out or the arm hasn't gone over center. Also, make sure the ball bearing is in its place or it will never work correctly.
If the clutch is still off the bike, make sure the plates and what not are not all stuck together. If it is put together then you need to adjust the clutch correctly.
Start at the handle and loosen the adjustment there completely. Then move down to the sprocket cover and loosen that adjustment completely. Now, take a 12 MM and flat head screw driver and loosen the nut on the side of the cover. NOW turn the SCREW COUNTER CLOCKWISE until you feel it just touch something. THEN turn it CLOCK WISE about a quarter turn and LOCK the nut in. Go back to the cable adjustment at the top of the sprocket cover and adjust it tight until you have about a 1/2" of play AT THE HANDLE. Use the handle adjustment only for fine tuning, all major adjustment should be made at the cover.
NOW with the bike off, pull the handle. You should feel clutch disengage, and if the bike is in gear on the floor you should be able to push it. Mine is sorta resistive IF its not running but if it is its fine. IF that all works you are done with that for now.
IF after all that, it still won't work, I would pull the sprocket cover and inspect the mechanism. Make sure the cable hasn't popped out or the arm hasn't gone over center. Also, make sure the ball bearing is in its place or it will never work correctly.
SrgtBear
The arsenic has oddly shaped feet...
I had the same problem except I didn't take the whole clutch apart. If you have yours already apart then take the friction discs and plates apart. Just make sure you put then back together they way they came off.
If your engine is together then push start it into first, shift into second without the clutch then hold the clutch in and twist the throttle a couple of times until it breaks free. Worked for me.
If your engine is together then push start it into first, shift into second without the clutch then hold the clutch in and twist the throttle a couple of times until it breaks free. Worked for me.
DC74inc
Come on in and sit on it.
haha sorry 'bout the font madness, I thought it was cool at the time, anyhow;
I'm carrying these clutch plate springs around in my pockets just thinking; damn what if it's old springs and they just don't apply enough pressure to even activate the clutch at all, which is why is would "stay engaged"... Should I just get a slide caliper and check the springs or do they not go bad and that would be a waste...
They are stiff as a corpse and look good, maybe old spring though, i dont know, what do you think bout that? Ps> I got some new plates coming on the way, steels and frictions.. that may help.
AND b.t.w. its not a matter of adjusting the controls; i'm not trying to engage the clutch, its a matter of getting it to "lock" to basically retain friction, ...so it will kick over the crank.
I'm carrying these clutch plate springs around in my pockets just thinking; damn what if it's old springs and they just don't apply enough pressure to even activate the clutch at all, which is why is would "stay engaged"... Should I just get a slide caliper and check the springs or do they not go bad and that would be a waste...
They are stiff as a corpse and look good, maybe old spring though, i dont know, what do you think bout that? Ps> I got some new plates coming on the way, steels and frictions.. that may help.
AND b.t.w. its not a matter of adjusting the controls; i'm not trying to engage the clutch, its a matter of getting it to "lock" to basically retain friction, ...so it will kick over the crank.
