3DogNate's 1969 Triumph Bonneville T120R Resoration

jeff4uk said:
The big ass zender is under my headlight looks awesome and folks always say "whats that"

Just tell them it's the Flux Capacitor. Or the smoke retention generator. ;D

Did you not consider putting the decals under the clear coat for protection?

My regulate is bolted to the bottom of the rear fender:




The rectifier is bolted to a tab on the back left side of the battery box strap, at least it is on the 70 model, yours may be different (I checked the 69 parts manual and it appears triumph used the same manual for both years). The tab it is bolted to is not shown in the parts manual.
 
o1marc said:
Just tell them it's the Flux Capacitor. Or the smoke retention generator. ;D

Did you not consider putting the decals under the clear coat for protection?

My regulate is bolted to the bottom of the rear fender:

The rectifier is bolted to a tab on the back left side of the battery box strap, at least it is on the 70 model, yours may be different (I checked the 69 parts manual and it appears triumph used the same manual for both years). The tab it is bolted to is not shown in the parts manual.

I'll be using a Tympanium rec/reg combo (I have no shame in upgrading the charging system at all even on a resto.) 200watt Stator / Tympanium Rec/Reg.
tympanium.JPG
 
The only issue I have with mounting it to the underside of the battery tray is the bolt heads on the top side the battery will now be resting on. Minimal issue, but a thought just the same. The place mine is mounted works well.
 
I think you could make a nice clean "sandwich" bracket out of a 1" x 4" steel strap. Lay the strap on top of the thin part of the battery tray, install the Tympanium underneath the battery tray, trapped with 2 bolts & nyloc nuts.

I like the Sparx solid state single phase finned egg regulator rectifier, "Just the Ticket".
 
grandpaul said:
I think you could make a nice clean "sandwich" bracket out of a 1" x 4" steel strap. Lay the strap on top of the thin part of the battery tray, install the Tympanium underneath the battery tray, trapped with 2 bolts & nyloc nuts.

I like the Sparx solid state single phase finned egg regulator rectifier, "Just the Ticket".

The Sparx Rec/Reg is very neat... but I already bought the Tympanium unit. ::) I have some low profile cap screws that might work well without causing issue... I'll look at the sammich idea as well.
 
I got the seat all wrapped up.... grab rail, bumpers, hinges mounted with all new hardware. and mounted up the rear fender... (That was fussy)... I need to Drill it and mount the Tail light assembly and license plate mount still.

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You need to be careful to make sure it is aligned straight on the bike first (should be, by now), then be extra-careful taping the area off with low-adhesion masking tape, be absolutely certain you have the light/mount spotted properly, mark it, then extra-super-careful drilling!!!
 
grandpaul said:
You need to be careful to make sure it is aligned straight on the bike first (should be, by now), then be extra-careful taping the area off with low-adhesion masking tape, be absolutely certain you have the light/mount spotted properly, mark it, then extra-super-careful drilling!!!

Not my first rodeo drilling painted parts. I'll turn a spotting screw on the lathe to mark that pesky hole in the casting. Tape, Mark, drill mount.

I'm shooting for getting everything ready to install the motor next week. I'll do the handle bars / gauges / oil tank / Battery box this weekend.

I'm gonna run Amal Premier Carbs... does "Everyone" remove the air slide and block off the choke cable hole on these things and zip tie up the air cable? Is the choke really that useless? I know that this was the thing to do with the stock concentrics. But does it apply to the new Premier carbs too? Just curious if I should block off the air cable and stick to just ticklers to enrich the mix for cold start...
 
12 of my 14 classic Triumphs (including my race bike) have the enricher slides, cables and levers in place, only 2 of them don't.
 
Tickling it doesn't enrich the mixture, only fills the float bowls more. Yes the chokes should be retained. Those who remove them are usually in warmer areas where the chokes are not needed as much. I will run them on mine.
 
I would take o1marc's advice. Priming the carbs with the tickler will usually get the engine started and you may not need the chokes at all on warm days, but the chokes do make it easier to keep running until it warms up a bit on cool days.
 
Rach and I are gonna plan to drive over and see it once its tuned and running. Just a warning.
 
trek97 said:
Rach and I are gonna plan to drive over and see it once its tuned and running. Just a warning.
Perfect

I got out and mounted the tail light and rear brake stay, i also started on the handle bars and got the levers grips and horn button mounted.

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trek97 said:
Rach and I are gonna plan to drive over and see it once its tuned and running. Just a warning.

I may have to join that party. Not too far from where I'm at.
 
o1marc said:
Tickling it doesn't enrich the mixture, only fills the float bowls more.
No, it OVERFLOWS the bowls, dumping a super-rich charge of fuel into the intake tract, thus ENRICHING the starting charge.
 
grandpaul said:
No, it OVERFLOWS the bowls, dumping a super-rich charge of fuel into the intake tract, thus ENRICHING the starting charge.

Yeah different than choking where you simply rob air from the mix or a Mikuni VM style enricher which adds fuel to the mix. You get the rich mix for a brief period until the bowl level returns... you gotta nurse the throttle a bit vs the choke... I never really understood why this is such a popular thing to do on triumphs... There's definitely 2 camps on this subject. I'm planning to keep my air slides and functional choke.
 
Got the oil tank and battery box mounted today and took a quick inventory of any parts I need amongst that group of parts... surprisingly I had most parts. :)

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3DogNate said:
Yeah different than choking where you simply rob air from the mix or a Mikuni VM style enricher which adds fuel to the mix. You get the rich mix for a brief period until the bowl level returns... you gotta nurse the throttle a bit vs the choke... I never really understood why this is such a popular thing to do on triumphs... There's definitely 2 camps on this subject. I'm planning to keep my air slides and functional choke.

It's all relative. The air slides do not DIRECTLY enrich the mixture, but as a result of the blockage of the AIR, the relative mixture entering the carb throat is richer.

The ticklers DIRECTLY richen the mixture.
 
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