73 cb350k first cafe yet to be named

Givernewt

This space for rent
Your standard issue 73 cb 350 twin, not a real ambitious build planned, gonna do the usual seat / rear fender chop and or relocate, its going to get clubman bars for now and staying with "stock" exhaust, purchased new dunstall pipes to attach to the headers. Friend sold it to me not running with no current title for $150.

I immediately set about finding if its going to run or not, so removed carbs and the tank complete with rusty interior and took em to work for a thorough cleaning. Much squinting and poking with tiny implements later, carbs were degunked then soda blasted.

The rusty tank? I took a road less traveled, here's a few pics.
cb2502.jpg


cb3501.jpg


Sandblasted the exterior of the tank to remove the badly oxidized burgundy paint job. My solution for rust removal on the inside was to throw a half dozen handfuls of very fine abrasive gravel into it. Shake well, do not stir.

Shake some more, take a break. Go back and to be safe, shake it some more, then get your friends to shake it.

Maybe 15 mins worth of good violent shaking and the gravel, almost sand really, had removed 90% of the rust. Dumped most of it, blew it out with compressed air, then used some old oil to swish rinse swish rinse repeat ad nauseum. In the end, I did the final two rinses with a light air tool oil we had laying around and set it to "Drip dry" overnight.

Set the tank back on after installing carbs, added a couple inline filters and thoroughly cleaned the petcock. ( removed from tank during rust removal)

With all the stuff back on the bike, and verified spark ( new battery in there too ) fed it some fuel and produced some mild coughing sounds from the pipes, encouraging! :p

Carbs off again and found some gunk i had missed, put em back on and almost got a decent idle right off the bat. After a little more running noticed im down a cylinder so had to start looking at the ignition system.

This is where this sight, DTT, really shines. With guys like Crazypj, yinzer, jewbacca and others running around, Tim, sonreir, you guys prolly dont know it but you've already been a big help. After some poking around realized I had to reset the gap on the points, and without direction from you guys and others I woulda been workin in the dark.

A month after delivery and the bike runs, not too bad either. Took a VERY short scoot down the street and back, got up to 3rd but didnt wanna push my luck on those ancient dry rotted tires. I should mention the clutch would not work at all at first, altho after a short ( 15 foot ) scoot down my driveway it had worked free and would disengage the gearing. The plates musta been a wee bit sticky. Definately worth a try if your new/old machine doesnt clutch right away.

Workin on a seat mold for fiberglassing:

PICT0527.jpg


More to come!
 
Vey cool man. Great feeling when it finally moves under its own power. By chance, did you change the oil before running it? If not, do it. run it for a bit, than do it again. And be sure to thoroughly clean the "oil filter". Bad/old/too little/dirty oil can ruin a motor in a heartbeat. Anyhow, keep up the good work and you'll have a great little scoot before you know it.
 
Thanks very much vonyinzer, and yeah fantastic to get it moving, its very encouraging.

Bit of a sin runnin on old oil like that, total run time is maybe 15 mins like that and im changing, running, then changing again either this weekend or monday when im off work. Will be scrutinizing first oil drained for particles of important engine bits, like aluminum , circlips etc.

I havent totally gone thru the DL'd manual yet, but im under the impression the oil screen is internal , more or less, and a sidecover or two have to be removed to get at it?
 
Theres a small cover on the right side, held on by two screws (do yourself a favor and get a stainless allen head set for the motor...). Pull it off, and the oil seperator/filter/thingy (cant remember what Honda calls it) is inside. Remove the small cap (dont destroy the O-ring) and wipe the interior out. Any metallic bits should be stuck inside there.
 
Sounds like its a good thing i brought my impact driver home, i just KNEW i'd have to take some covers off sooner or later. I know i tripped over a ebay source for cap screw sets you guys had named, but we have access to a lot of hardware where I work, does anyone have a fairly complete list of sizes/lengths required to replace most of the hardware? I will likely be able to pick it up for near free.
 
Back
Top Bottom