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Started with the wiring and routing cables. I have some excess cable to lose on the clutch cable, trying to lose it around the headlight but anyone got a tried and true method for routing that cable with clipons? It's a stock 360 cable.
Yep - shorten the cables! Not that hard, there are some write ups on here. There really is no other way. You want the cleanest, least bendy routing you can get, and generally you want to have the cables routed so they are parallel and as close as possible to the steering stem so that when you turn the steering the cables twist rather than scope back and forth. So from the clutch lever say, horizontally then curved down vertically (sort of) along the rake of the steering neck and then curving back under the tank to however it needs to make up to the clutch mechanism. It does not have to be all that close to parallel to the steering neck, but if you are aiming somewhat vertically near to it, you will see how it twists when you turn the bars. I get a bunch of zip ties to temporarily hold the cable in place and try various routings until I get a good path. Usually takes a bit of trial and error, but well worth the time spent. Make sure you also rout all the electric cabling and other control cables as well as all the rest of the bikes hardware before you make a decision as often many things compete for the same space. Usually takes me longer to decide on the routing than it does to actually make up the cables, but I've done quite a few so it goes fairly quick once I determine how long. Well designed cable routing makes for a vastly smoother, easier operation and greatly longer cable life.
I did end up making a rear brake cable, have to remake it coz I botched it the first time round. I have some silver solder for this purpose, I'll do a thorough forum search during the week. Cheers
Functionality wise I like it. Don't have to worry about cracking like the old one cuz it's milled from a solid block. Has a few mounting points for gauges but tbh they're not in the best spot for my use.
Aesthetically I don't love the way it looks. It's too sharp in contrast to the nicely rounded original triple/lower triple. I was thinking of beveling the edges more but meh, probably not worth the effort. Maybe I'll buy a used upper triple at some point but for now it's fine.
Anyone got a torque value for the forward driven sprocket? I found a lot on the inter web saying 35-40 ft/lb but got mine to around 20 and seems like it doesn't want go higher. Don't want strippage.
Manual makes it sound like the bolts are just snugged up
May have overdone it a bit, but they shouldn't go anywhere.
Got the chain on and adjusted, had to pull a link, so much for the eBay "compatible vehicles" list for that one. Nbd
Working on routing cables and wiring. Gonna have to shorten all the cables. After doing some research I think I'll grab a bunch of brass ends and silver solder them on. Maybe see if I can find a cheap little solder pot too, probably a worthy investment for this endeavor alone
You need to fit new bolts.
They will snap and you will lose lock plate
If your real unlucky, the sprocket will fall off
Stop reading guesses by people who have no idea what a 360 even looks like
You need to fit new bolts.
They will snap and you will lose lock plate
If your real unlucky, the sprocket will fall off
Stop reading guesses by people who have no idea what a 360 even looks like
Yes, will be replacing overtorqued bolts and re torquing to m6 bolt specs. Can't be having any of that. Tough to find info, I'd just assumed there would be a specific value for these like the final driven sprocket.
If its not labeled specifically in the manual then go by their bolt size standard. If you look page 111 in the shop manual it will give a size of a bolt and the spec at what it should be torqued at.
6mm bolts range from 5ish to 8ish ftlbs on the engine. That's pretty much where they need to be.
Yes, will be replacing overtorqued bolts and re torquing to m6 bolt specs. Can't be having any of that. Tough to find info, I'd just assumed there would be a specific value for these like the final driven sprocket.
Use 6x1x10 ( I think?) high tensile Allen bolts and use some blue Loctite to compensate for smaller area under head
Just check they don't stick out the back or they may damage oil seal
Check the old ones for stretch in thread, they 'neck down' when stretched
Final drive sprocket torque is for centre nut or bolt, not two bolt with hold down plate
Thanks for info. Hopefully I can find those at the hardware store, or to McMaster I go.
Finished up work early, nothing like working 4 hours and getting 8, plus heading out of town early enough to beat all the beach traffic
I'll be beating my head against the wiring tonight. Need to fabricate a battery box as the one I made doesn't clear the seat pan.
I posted in the electrical forum, but I'll mention it here as well to see if anyone has any input. Basically I want to wire a 3 way DPDT switch to control the headlight, hi-lo-off for kickstarting. Is it possible to combine the headlight control and dimmer switches?
Also wondering if I can use the dimmer switch on the hand control (has a headlight+, lo and hi beam wire) I have as a kill switch. Thinking I can wire it so the connection is made at lo beam position (headlight+ to black wire and lo beam lead to black/white wire to coils) it should act as a kill switch.
It might, technically, work by connecting to the other green wires, but always best to have a single and verifiable connection from the battery to the frame (or engine mount).
Almost there on the wiring, ran out of 3/4" heat shrink tubing .
But I did improv a little trick to make up new covers for OEM connections. I took some 1/2" ID clear tubing and cut a small section - enough to cover plug. Grab the heat gun, warm it up and squash the end in a vise.
Next fit the plug with sealed top to the connection. In this case I had soldered on new connections for my flasher.
This parts a bit tricky. Took some pliers and hold the other end slightly open, enough to let some heat in there. When you've gotten it warm enough, squish the end, sealing it right up against the wire.
When I've gotten it sealed up, clip the end a bit long of the end of the female end. Voila! Makeshift OEM style connection cover.
Got back into the carbs today, making sure everything is clean and tight, etc.
Floats are set at 19mm. Currently have a 100 main jet, 68 primary main and 35 slow. The service manual says 95 for main, but I do recall seeing something about a typo in the service manual. Or the PO replaced the factory main jet.
I also noticed the intake from the air boxes have a fairly large discrepancy when the choke is fully closed. The left carb is closed, right carb has a significant gap (0.38mm). I would imagine proper adjustment would set both fully closed when choke is off.
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