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jp, Thanks for the write-up. Valuable information.
I'm picking up a new piston. The old one was a bit chewed up, but it was only outside the sealing surface of the piston. If I'm going to rebuild it (again), might as well replace the only worn part left.
Ordering up some cable and cable ends to shorten the cables. I have a solder pot that I'll be using the silver solder the ends of the cables on.
Still left to do:
-Mill ABS battery box
-Modify undercarriage of seat to allow room for wiring harness.
-Mount light and dimmer switch
-Shorten speedo cable
-Fab up a plate mount
Going for a rear axle mounted plate holder. Maybe I'll light it with one of those battery powered LED lights, make a housing. Don't wanna run a wire down there :
Lately I've been having nightmares of cooked top-ends. So, I've decided this weekend I'm going to pull the rocker box off and be certain the oiling system is working properly before I give her a good run. Better safe than sorry.
If I pull the plugs and kick the engine over with the valve cover off, will I see oil come up through the passages eventually? Or will gravity force any oil back down to the bottom end faster than I can manually crank it?
I did. I think (?) I PMed you a picture of it a ways back but I can't remember. Anyways here's a pic. I probably could've taken a bit more off, maybe at my first oil change I'll pop it back out.
I did. I think (?) I PMed you a picture of it a ways back but I can't remember. Anyways here's a pic. I probably could've taken a bit more off, maybe at my first oil change I'll pop it back out.
I did. I think (?) I PMed you a picture of it a ways back but I can't remember. Anyways here's a pic. I probably could've taken a bit more off, maybe at my first oil change I'll pop it back out.
Yep, that's the mod. I thought you had already done it and we already 'decided' you needed a little more off the sides ;D 8)
I'm thinking I may experiment with cutting a groove down the center section with a cutting burr in Dremel as well then aligning ends of clip with groove, you can't have too much flow back out of filter
Electrical and battery box FINALLY wrapped up. This working out of town 5 days a week thing is killing my wrench in' time. Here's a few shots of her rolled outside.
Went to fire her up today. The oil baths for the camshaft were low. I had filled them up with an oil can after putting the motor on the bike. When I initially fired her up the idle was far too high so I imagine that flung a bunch out. Got the idle speed ironed out and refilled the baths before prepping to start again.
Fired up pretty weak, left side stumbling and exhaust leaking at the flange. Gotta make sure the copper gasket and flanges are snugging up properly.
Thanks trek. Turns out I had the two collars that go under the exhaust flange installed backwards, which was causing the exhaust leak. Although they still don't look like they're on right, it's been so long since in had the stock pipes on I can't even remember
Quick vid of her idling (slow, cold). Tons of noise coming from the top end, no Bueno. I'll have to recheck the tappet clearances. It sounds worse in the video from my cell phone mic, they tend to pick up more of the higher frequencies, but it's still pretty pronounced.
The little flanges fit into the groove on the collar.
YES, dont rev her up. could be hitting exhaust valve on the piston top. I think its possible for that to happen. Or just tappets need adjusting. make darn sure they are getting oiled.
The little flanges fit into the groove on the collar.
YES, dont rev her up. could be hitting exhaust valve on the piston top. I think its possible for that to happen. Or just tappets need adjusting. make darn sure they are getting oiled.
Yeah. I had the valves adjusted to factory spec, loosened em up, cranked the motor over to correct position, tightened tappets down until feeler wouldn't move then backed off slightly to allow for minor drag.
This whole rebuilt engine thing is just nerve wracking. Any fool proof test to make sure I'm getting oil up there? I'm ready to pull the rocker box and be certain. ???
dont pull the cover off. it will probably make a small mess. But just start it and pull a cap off and you should see things are nice and oily or some may fling out and hit you in the eye.
Hopefully have some time tomorrow to check the tappets and monitor that 'erl flow.
In other news: got some silver solder and brass ferrules for throttle/clutch cables. Problem is, my solder pot doesn't get hot enough to melt the silver, and I don't have access to an acetylene torch. I've heard that 50/50 can be used, and that's what Flanders sells. Probably pick up a bar and try it out. As long as the ends of the cables are splayed and I get a good wedge of solder, should be good to go. I'll post pics when that goes down.
dont pull the cover off. it will probably make a small mess. But just start it and pull a cap off and you should see things are nice and oily or some may fling out and hit you in the eye.
I have read somewhere that the velocity of the exhaust gases past the valve guides actually create a negative pressure too...it draws oil into the guide more than one would think. Think Bernouli - Moving air is lower pressure than still air. Still air in the crankcase/valve area, rapidly moving gases in the exhaust port.
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