74 CB360 - First bike - need advice on what NOT to do

[ejb]

Greetings,


Just recently got my first bike (74 Honda CB360) and joined up here. What an awesome site! Soooo much information here. Thanks in advance.


Anyway, I've been reading a ton about 360's and my head is starting to spin so I need to focus on some individual components of the bike and get things cleared up.
The bike was barely running (would give it throttle and it would die), battery needs a charge, had to idle super high for it to stay running. So I've been stripping the bike down and I'm in the carbs now, about to throw them into some boiling lemon juice. They need it.


I'm not look to do anything too extravagant with this bike. Here are my goals:

• Shed some pounds off the bike (I started by removing the ugly front cruising foot pegs/rack and the rack on the back). I want to do this mostly because I want to be able to put this back on a carrier that extends out of a trailer hitch. Some other ideas... replace some simple components with aluminum, new exhaust, grind some unneeded bits off the frame, reduce the lights to LEDs and smaller housing. Basically I'm going for a minimalist look with ONE caveat, I still want to be able to have a PASSENGER =). According to wikipedia the bike is about 350lbs stock. It would be great if I could get it down to 320 or even 300 (pipe dream?).
• Make it look decent. The bike is in decent cosmetic condition. I'll be restoring all the chrome pieces and doing what I can to the engine. Maybe painting it but I've never really painted anything like a bike before. I'd like to paint the frame too but I'm a little nervous about taking it completely apart (engine off and everything). I like the original blue and white tank but it's dented and rusted. Something need to be done there. Also don't love the original seat or the frame sticking out behind it, but need to keep it passenger friendly.
• Lastly, I'm on a pretty tight budget so buying high-end performance parts to lose weight isn't really and option. Fortunately I'm somewhat handy and like to come up with unique solutions to problems.

Random carb question: I've read about plenty of headaches from doing K&N or POD filters and/or short pipes due to running lean. Will rejetting actually help or is it a pointless battle? Especially for a noobie like myself. Also, I read that using the rubber pieces from the stock airbox to connect custom filters to the carb helps correct the lean problem. True? I want to get rid of the stock airbox because it's ugly and I want to lose baggage. Also want room for a custom battery box down in the region. My bike does have a battery box at all right now??? It was just sitting under the seat. Also suggestions on non-stock exhaust that won't completely mess with the fuel/air mix and are lighter?


Sorry to ramble. Thanks DTT!

 

[ejb]

Bump.... and update


Boiled the carbs. They look real nice now. The only possible problems are the float bowl gaskets and the slow jets. The gaskets are pretty bad but I'm going to try them out anyway I'll throw a little rvt under them to help. One of the slow jets is looking clogged. I can barely barely see a speck of light coming through. The other one has maybe twice the light coming through (which is still only a pin point).


Still looking for advice on air intakes that won't cause a headache when it comes to tuning.

 

[crazypj]

DON'T
1. fit oversize tyres. (use 90/90x18 front and MAX of 110/90x18 rear)
2. Remove stock airbox on if your on a tight budget, carbs do need a lot of work to work PROPERLY with K&N filters
3.Use silicon (RTV) anywhere near carbs
DO
Use a single strand of copper wire to poke through pilot jets, removes oxidation and burnishes jet
Use multi strands of copper wire for primary and secondary jets (copper is softer than brass)
Unless you build your own exhaust, the only option is MAC 2:1.
Front pipes are double skin and pretty heavy

 

[ejb]

DON'T
1. fit oversize tyres. (use 90/90x18 front and MAX of 110/90x18 rear)
2. Remove stock airbox on if your on a tight budget, carbs do need a lot of work to work PROPERLY with K&N filters
3.Use silicon (RTV) anywhere near carbs
DO
Use a single strand of copper wire to poke through pilot jets, removes oxidation and burnishes jet
Use multi strands of copper wire for primary and secondary jets (copper is softer than brass)
Unless you build your own exhaust, the only option is MAC 2:1.
Front pipes are double skin and pretty heavy

Doh! Already put the gaskets back on with RTV. Haven't run it yet though so shouldn't cause issues. Does the RTV gum up the carbs? How should I remove it? Acetone?
Are there any other options for air filters? Maybe even chopping up the stock airbox to make it smaller/lighter? I really don't care about having the "K&N filter look" but I would like to open up some space behind the carbs.
I'll try the copper wire trick.
Is the MAC2:1 the only option for me because it doesn't necessitate rejetting?
If I do decide to make a giant headache for myself and go with custom filters and exhaust, what sized jets and other carb components are generally needed?


PS. A big concern of mine: the clutch makes this click/clang noise when it's almost 100% engaged. Is that a sign of trouble?


I've gathered that you're a legend around here, pj. So thanks for taking the time to reply to a beginner like myself.

 

[cleoncleon]

Anything you do the Exhaust WILL translate to the intake as well which will then need to be adjusted, and vise versa.
Usually just involves a swap of the Jets.

 

[crazypj]

With stock airbox you can use just about any exhaust, as long as it's not too short (about 6" past passenger footrest.)
With modified or removed airbox, IT WILL NOT RUN RIGHT after 4,500 with modified or stock jetting.
(I'm not saying it won't run, it just won't run properly)
It's possible to make it run properly, but, not easy unless you have a LOT of carb experience.
If you really want to junk the airboxes, start looking for some stock Yamaha Banshee carbs.
They are a bit small (26mm) but very easy to jet and WILL allow 100mph performance

 

[trek97]

I didnt spend the money on K & N filters. I got mine on ebay for like 7 bucks each. figure out how your gonna mount them so you know what size to get. I used my original airbox rubber boots and the filters squeezed inside them perfect. and they do seem to be pretty well made. super fine steel mesh under the protective heavy screen. so I just wash em like a K & N.
http://stores.ebay.com/3BBB-Motorcycle-in-US/_i.html?_fsub=471797014
Also bargain hunt...online. I found the best price for my Vintage Firestones at JEGS. like $20-30 cheaper on each tire than most bike sites. Dimecitycycles.com also has some good prices on stuff like shocks And dont be afraid to check prices at local honda shop. rebuilt my petcock cheaper through Honda shop than I could w parts found on EBAY. SHOP AROUND. Dont get lazy and just assume Amazon.com has the best prices on Bar end mirrors.
Also figure out what you want make the plan. Look for and talk to people about the parts you want. I wasted some money buying stuff twice, cause I saw something "else" I liked and changed my mind after the fact. handlebars=drag bars at first then I bought clubmans. I bought a new conventional battery then decided to hide it and now I bought a gel battery. I had a new chain...then decided to stretch the swing arm and so I needed a longer chain. so, study study study. find bikes online, and see what you really want to do.
And no matter how radical or different you want to be...DO IT. Alot of people like my 360, alot of people Hate it. Its all good. cause I love it.
Maybe someday Im starting a trend w my painted motor. And everyone will have a rainbow of motors.
Heres some pics of my bike. Like it or leave it. Tell me what you think. Wont hurt my feelings.
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=27417.0
also Blog
http://1976hondacb360t.blogspot.com/

 

[ejb]

Thank you for the excellent advice trek. I'm definitely a planner and I love to shop around.
How did the tuning go with those filters? New jets?


I just commented on your bike... ths red engine is actually growing on me, even since I commented. I dig it.

 

[trek97]

thanks for the complement.
you can get a free download of original "Honda" workshop manual here.
http://www.carlsalter.com/download.asp?p=840
the download verification thing can be a total biotch sometimes. just read the instructions...like no spaces or something...even though it shows a space, leave it out. the first time at home I think I had to try like 5 times or more. then I did it on puter at work, so I could print off the timing section and carb sections and got it first try. Its way better than crappy clymber manual. has been priceless for me.
post a pic of your bike. before during and after.

 

[diggerdanh]

I don't have a CB360 but hopefully I can share some of the things that I've learned over the past few months with my first bike. The following are specifically advice for building your first bike.


1. I have to respectfully disagree with trek97 about planning things out exactly how you want it to end up so you don't end up buying similar versions of the same more than once. Why? Your plan for your first bike will change over time as your eyes open and you take in more pictures, more experience, more time riding your bike. You may start out wanting something basic with a few cafe styling tweaks and end up going much further. Or more likely you may start out with a beautiful cafe style Bike Exif-worthy image in your mind and later realize you don't have the patience, time, skills, tools, etc. and go with something a little less full-bore. You may decide that your bike might look better as a street tracker instead.



2. Don't buy anything before you need it. Right after I bought the bike I bought nearly everything I thought I would need: engine gasket kit, bar end mirrors, new front and back wheel bearings, new steering stem roller bearings, carb rebuild kits, etc. Most of those bearings I didn't need because they had either been replaced recently or were still in good shape. Turns out the carbs were rebuilt recently and were in good shape - just needed a little cleaning and some jet changes. I will probably still end up using the bar end mirrors but it may not be until next spring. I may end up eventually using all the parts, but for now they're sitting in a drawer and cost money that I could have used on other things.


3. Do take small, incremental steps. Get the bike running well first. Spend money on new battery, tires, replace fuel lines, change the oil, change the fork oil, etc. Replace the old fuses and fuse block with more recent knife blade fuses. Once you get it running then ride it... a lot. Then start making small incremental changes - want to go with a new cafe style seat? Okay make just that change. Want flatter bars? Okay then, go with superbike bars or drag bars or even clubmans. If you decide to later change from drag bars to clubmans or from clubmans to clip ons you ought to be able to sell the old parts for nearly what you have in them.


4. Don't be afraid to do something you've never done before. I've done a lot of stuff over the last few months that I've never done before: tore down my front forks and replaced seals and dust boots, tore carbs apart and cleaned them, adjusted cam chain tension, adjusted valves, basically taken most of the bike apart (except for the engine) and put it back together again. If you decide you want to change the old turn signals for something smaller and more modern then just do it. Figure it out. Fabricate small fixes from stuff you have laying around or from old stuff you've torn off the bike. Lower the headlight. Lower the gauges. Build up a lot of confidence by completing these small, detailed and rewarding tasks. They'll give you the confidence to take on larger jobs later.