'74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter" *New seat*

Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

ADC I should have mentioned that my street bikes are two strokes. 165 is on a GT750. Air cooled two stroke I agree 150 is a good all round top limit.

There are a few people around the country that can work out porting and pipe numbers. Scott Clough has a good reputation. Tom Turner is another one in the biz though he's retired for a while now. Stan Stevens in the UK is an expert but he doesn't do pipes IIRC. I don't make pipes for people but I design pipe and porting combos for fun. Having fun with Kart pipes at the moment trying to improve on what is regarded as the best pipe available. That's a bit of a challenge, but we have two designs ready to be rolled and tested that should do the job. But that's a whole other story.

The problem is that it literally takes dozens of runs on the simulator after a pipe is designed to zero in on the results you want. On the GT750 we have around a 100 different combinations of different port configurations tried so far and that eats time.

The way it goes is you start by measuring the existing engine. Port entry and exit dimensions, duct lengths, rod and piston configuration, crankcase volume and so on. Then you make a plan - an objective - and then you work out what port widths and times could achieve that objective. Then you work up a couple of likely pipe designs and throw all that data into the software and see what it looks like. Then you analyze the data for dips and lumps and then you start to explore, what if we had less transfer width or more or more height, and what about the same on the exhaust and intake. Then you start to do different combos of slightly different shapes that looked promising individually.

Then you stop and look at the data and see if it's possible to carve that much metal out of the ports. With old engines you have gone too far without welding up the outside of ducts to carve new shapes, so you have to go back around the loop again at which time the pipe probably needs some tweaks.

Or you do what I did with my first two stroke all those decades ago and get out the files and start in on the ports and piston and order a pipe and just ride it. Did it make more power or less? Who knew. No roll on dynos in those days, no PCs, no software, no internet. Just books, rifler files and a ton of youthful enthusiasm (and zero cash).

That of course is why tuners don't want to share their secrets. It takes days/weeks/months to get the results you want and no time at all for anyone to copy the answers.

Or go to Jemco and order one of their 3 into 1 pipes and enjoy the sound. I have no experience with that pipe but their 3 chamber GT750 system is pretty good.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

Suzuki actually published hop-up specs for these bikes back in "the day." I wish I had access to that info now. Their hop-up specs had chamber dimensions and everything.

I worked in a Suzuki shop back then.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

I wasn't going to comment, but I'm not just a GT380 guy, but a classic Toyota guy. So.... Yeah, I'm interested. So far, I've been seeing a lot of good advice already, so I don't have much to add. Just that I ran a Boyer Brandsden electronic ignition conversion on mine. It was made for a KH250 Kawi, but they include instructions to make it work on the 380. As a side benefit, it fires all 3 coils at once, so you can run an electronic tachometer for a 4-stroke 6.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

Suzuki did indeed issue a hop up guide for teh 750. nIt's available on line at a couple of Suzuki sites. Only thing is that it's pretty much useless today. Back in 72 there were no PCs and no theory of waves and cuts and pipe design so it was all suck it and see. Modern designs are just much better and modern software makes it easy to get much more power over a broader power band than back in the day.

Those articles are interesting but that's about as far as they are useful. besides, those specs were not even close to a production TR750 let alone the works bikes.

What i have found over the years is that as people work out what works and what doesn't, they prefer not to share that information. I have loads of data from different people on GT750 porting and most of it is OK but far from state of the art.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

Port timing secrecy is to two strokes as cam grind secrecy is to 4 strokes.

I remember when a guy at the track had the same car as me. His was quite a bit faster than mine, and when I asked what lift and duration he was running he got very upset, and said that it's "private"....

I won't be worrying about port timing. Maybe one day in the future on a different bike I will, but I think the expansion chambers and re jetted carbs will be enough.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

Engine is together, and back in the bike. Stock pistons and rings and it seems to make very good compression as I can really feel the compression stroke in the kick start. Fingers crossed that the wash out of the little bit of aluminum spatter worked as well as i thought. There was almost nothing in the crank, most of the aluminum is in the exhaust port and stuck to the side of the bore. I opened the drains in the bottom of the crank case, and ran some cleaners through, and some forign debris came out, but nothing like melted aluminum...

I have some sheet metal repair panels from Canadian Tire that I did a very hack/scab seat pan and fairing. I dont have tools for working with sheet metal so I used heat from the welding and a rubber mallet to bend the sheet metal.

Its a 10 footer, but so is the rest of the bike. Here it is with my model "T" tail light mocked up:

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After some high build primer and a couple coats of silver:

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This will get the same treatment as the tank, checker stripe down the center. I am thinking of putting the number 3 on the side (it would match my Bell helmet). More to come once its done.
 
Re: '74 Suzuki GT380 "The Nostril Assaulter"

The rear fairing and seat is complete. I also built some bolt on flush side covers. I need to design a custom oil tank, since there is no room for the stock tank behind the new covers.

Here are a few pictures of the finished product. (these are very raw since I never used bondo to smooth and blend).

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I wish I had some proper metal working tools. Using a hammer and the concrete floor aren't very good at making compound curves.

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It doesn't cost much to buy a few hammers.
http://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-body-and-fender-set-31277.html
 
I have hammers and dollys... But the metal is a bit too thick. Something like an english wheel or an air hammer would have made it a lot easier. Also since this is an ultra budget build, I am happy with the visual change for the ammount of money spent.


Some more pin striping done. I want to find some old Shell Petrolium and NGK decals. The VP racing fuel decals wont stay.

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