'75 CB200 electronic ignition + Dyna mini coil - Help!

tnahvu

tnahvu

Vrooom!!
Hi all,


I just recently mounted on my CB200T new mini Dyna Dual Output 3.0ohm, DC1-2 and Pertronix 1847a electronic ignition w/ camshaft nose adapter from Les at Vintage Advantage and can't get sparks! :( please help.


Here were my steps:


1. Removed the electronic ignition part, black rectangle plastic part with two wires, from Pertronix kit and mounted it on oem plate and remounted the whole thing back on bike with camshaft nose adapter.


2. Mounted the Dyna coil with brand new spark plug wires.


3. Took the two wires from Pertronix kit and hook them to the coil. This plug-an-play set-up seems too easy/good to be true, so I know I missing something here.


** I've tried testing the two wires from the electronic ignition for power by going through the timing procedure ("f" mark and all) for the bike, and of course, nothing.


** Condenser was also removed, should I have kept it?


photo%2525201.JPG

photo%2525202.JPG

photo%2525204.JPG



I know Nate, 74CB200, has this on his bike and many others on CB175s, so any help would be greatly appreciated! Tried searching on google without much luck...


Thanks
Tuan
 
If you have a volt-ohm meter. Id check to make sure that your coil has voltage when the bike is in the run position.


You can also check the Pertronics mechanism by switching the volt/ohm meter to continuity, and passing the trigger by the pickup. The you should see the VOM spike...


I cant tell by the wires-- but it looks like you don't have the coil wired into the bike?
You could also trouble shoot, by putting the old points back and checking the coil first.


No the condenser is not needed.
I have the same setup on a 175.
 
Oh also there is a gap distance that should be between the cam trigger and the pertronix unit. I don't recall the distance... so perhaps you will want to try to adjust it closer/further away... Just a thought.
 
acm177 said:
If you have a volt-ohm meter. I can get one tonight! Id check to make sure that your coil has voltage when the bike is in the run position.


You can also check the Pertronics mechanism by switching the volt/ohm meter to continuity, and passing the trigger by the pickup. The you should see the VOM spike...Will do!


I cant tell by the wires-- but it looks like you don't have the coil wired into the bike? You mean have the coil's ground wire connected to the bike's ground cable? I only have the coil's ground and ignition's ground connected to each other. Aha!
You could also trouble shoot, by putting the old points back and checking the coil first.


No the condenser is not needed. Whew!
I have the same setup on a 175.


As for the gap, you mean the round black magnet (trigger?) over the camshaft adapter and the pertronix unit?
Click to expand...


Many, many thanks!
 
Yeah sounds like you should be on track...


I prefer a simple analogue VOM. It has nice visibility and I don't do much other than check voltage and continuity. More often I see the digital ones for pretty cheap... No need to go overboard. ;)



Maybe this will help you in your journey:
http://cycles.evanfell.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/Custom_Motorcycle_Wiring_Diagram_no_battery_by_Evan_Fell.png


http://www.ehow.com/how_2282412_use-ohmmeter.html


I've got a switch just off camera-- I built my own wiring harness, so its a bit different.
 

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Please note that in my picture, my coil is mounted in the opposite orientation (plug leads down) The positive and negative spade connectors aren't in the same orientation as in your photos.
 
oh, man! thanks for going through the trouble of posting the pic with descriptions and all!

so.. battery/power 12v(+) to coil (+)
coil (+) to pertronix (+)

petronix (-) to coil (-)
what about the ground that went to the old coil that was connected to the battery? does that go to pertronix (-)? or can it be omitted? thanks so, so much!
 
Correct on that wiring.

The gap between the rotor and the part on the backing plate has to be .020" IIRC. If the gap is too large they don't trigger. It's not really adjustable, but there is usually enough slop in the mounting screws to adjust it slightly if necessary.
 
Woo hoo!


Good news and Bad news.


Good news: She runs! has good sparks.


Bad news:


1. She runs really bad even after timing adjustment (bulb lit spot-on at the "F" mark). Sputtering, wouldn't get pass 6000rpm in 5th gear. Barely started with the chokes all the way out.


Carbs settings were exact same before installation of Pertronix unit and Dyna coil. Any suggestions?


Oh, and the specified gap between the magnet rotor and P unit is .030 in.
 
That system has no electronic advance AFIK, therefore it has to be timed at Full Advance, not the stock retarded timing marks
 
There should be a pair of lines approx 2mm apart from each other, 35-40 degrees ahead of the F mark. make it fire at that spot when it's running above 3k or so revs.

Fire it up and point a timing light at it and then rotate te backing plate clockwise to advance it until that pair of lines align with the pointer.
 
are you saying i have to set timing while engine is running and oil all drained? :D

so the marker should be exactly in between the pair lines or just somewhere in between?

many thanks, again.
 
+1 to teazer. i bought an extra cover from ebay and cut the the top corner off it. oil stays in and you can run it. thats my suggestion. maybe someone has a better one but thats how i did it.
 
I do it with a spare old cover with a small hole in it, but I have tried it with no cover and the spray wasn't too bad. Do not run it without oil unless you want to find out how long a Honda can run before it melts. It's longer than you might expect, but shorter than you need it to be.

I suppose you cold mold a clear plexiglass cover, but I just drill a hole at the appropriate spot in an old cover.It's not as if you will spend a lot of time with it running like that. It takes but a few seconds with a timing light.
 
can you really see the pair lines at 3000rpm+? would it be spinning?

and what spot in the cover would you drill? the marker where the pair lines need to light up at?

thanks
 
Of course. It's easy. Did I forget to mention that the timing light I am talking about is an automotive type that clamps around one plug lead and looks like a gun and flashes every time there's a spark in that side so it acts like a strobe and stops the lines from moving?

How to set your ignition timing - normal car but bikes are the same.

This sort of thing
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sears-Chrome-Steel-Inductive-DC-Timing-Light-Gun-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZalgoQ3dSIQ26itsQ3dIQ26ituQ3dUCIQ252BUAQ252BFICSQ26otnQ3d21Q26pmodQ3d200647136549Q26psQ3d54QQ_trksidZp3284Q2em263QQitemZ260854412753

I'm not talking about a small wattage bulb used to statically time the motor.
 
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