'75 CB550K1 Gulf - Round...3, the fun stuff
- Thread starter Ringo
- Start date
spikeybike
New Member
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - odds & ends
ok , after reading 65 pages ... i can't come up with a comment that hasn't been said already .. so i'll just repeat what's already been said
...this bike is soooooo badass words fail ... the tank, the cowl, the color scheme, the top notch alloy stuff
you brought "Garage Built" to a whole other level my friend ... i'm seriously impressed
ok , after reading 65 pages ... i can't come up with a comment that hasn't been said already .. so i'll just repeat what's already been said
...this bike is soooooo badass words fail ... the tank, the cowl, the color scheme, the top notch alloy stuff
you brought "Garage Built" to a whole other level my friend ... i'm seriously impressed
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - odds & ends
Ok...some actual input......
I think you *should* reconsider your "silencer" (yeah right!) mount. As it stands now it's not really adding a lot of support to the end of the exhaust other than a little fore/aft location and maybe a small amount of vertical support but that's totally dependant on the fasteners ability to stay at full torque. I'm afraid you'll end up with a cracked/broken header in short order like it is now.
Were it mine I'd run my rear support up to the relocated subframe diagonal. If you run it so that it's more or less parallel to the shock it shouldn't hurt anything aesthetically.
Ok...some actual input......
I think you *should* reconsider your "silencer" (yeah right!) mount. As it stands now it's not really adding a lot of support to the end of the exhaust other than a little fore/aft location and maybe a small amount of vertical support but that's totally dependant on the fasteners ability to stay at full torque. I'm afraid you'll end up with a cracked/broken header in short order like it is now.
Were it mine I'd run my rear support up to the relocated subframe diagonal. If you run it so that it's more or less parallel to the shock it shouldn't hurt anything aesthetically.
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - odds & ends
Swagger, thanks man. I call it a "hanger" loosely. The only thing it really does is keep vibrations down. I figure the pipes are light enough (they don't sag just bolted to the head) that I won't have too much to worry about in the way of vertical flexing. Having that can/secondary vibrate all around was my main concern. Thoughts on this?
Like the pic of that Yoshi pipe, I just hate such a long hanger. Add to that the fact that I've finally destroyed my savings on this bike and used up the rest of my aluminum stock on the brake stay. So I'm a broke fool for a couple weeks.
Swagger, thanks man. I call it a "hanger" loosely. The only thing it really does is keep vibrations down. I figure the pipes are light enough (they don't sag just bolted to the head) that I won't have too much to worry about in the way of vertical flexing. Having that can/secondary vibrate all around was my main concern. Thoughts on this?
Like the pic of that Yoshi pipe, I just hate such a long hanger. Add to that the fact that I've finally destroyed my savings on this bike and used up the rest of my aluminum stock on the brake stay. So I'm a broke fool for a couple weeks.
Swagger
Putting boot to ass since 1967!
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - odds & ends
(since you asked for further thoughts...)
Just hanging there off the head is probably fine until you're actually out riding. Vibration and impact loading (hitting a bump) will multiply the load the studs see by a LOT since the length of the entire exhaust will act like a lever against the head. That's what's going to kill your header or snap exh. studs.
You could perhaps sling another hanger under the collector to the frame etc, such that it's vertical. That would take care of the breakage worry and you could keep your little bracket out by the silencer to keep it in line.
regarding my previous "silencer" bit......hehe....I've heard those on other bikes......they don't do a lot of silencing but they do look badass!
(since you asked for further thoughts...)
Just hanging there off the head is probably fine until you're actually out riding. Vibration and impact loading (hitting a bump) will multiply the load the studs see by a LOT since the length of the entire exhaust will act like a lever against the head. That's what's going to kill your header or snap exh. studs.
You could perhaps sling another hanger under the collector to the frame etc, such that it's vertical. That would take care of the breakage worry and you could keep your little bracket out by the silencer to keep it in line.
regarding my previous "silencer" bit......hehe....I've heard those on other bikes......they don't do a lot of silencing but they do look badass!
Grahamworks
Been Around the Block
'75 CB550 - Gulf - odds & ends
This bike is painfully beautiful. I look forward to seeing it sitting on rubber before too long.
This bike is painfully beautiful. I look forward to seeing it sitting on rubber before too long.
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
The spokes finally came in. I laced them up and started truing them. Marginally successful so far, so I'll have another go tomorrow. The tire guy can't fit me in until Tuesday or Wednesday next week, so I have plenty of time to get them right.
I managed to cut and buff the tank and fender. They're looking shiny, or at least as much as this blue will allow. It hides imperfections really well, but it also doesn't show how good the clear looks. And I threw on the tank badges for good measure.
On top of that, I managed to adjust the valves, gap the points, and check the timing. It's more retarded than I'd like; maybe 3 degrees BTDC. This is the first bike with points ignition that I've worked on and I'm still a little unclear on how to adjust the timing without opening up the points gap. Anybody care to enlighten me?
The spokes finally came in. I laced them up and started truing them. Marginally successful so far, so I'll have another go tomorrow. The tire guy can't fit me in until Tuesday or Wednesday next week, so I have plenty of time to get them right.
I managed to cut and buff the tank and fender. They're looking shiny, or at least as much as this blue will allow. It hides imperfections really well, but it also doesn't show how good the clear looks. And I threw on the tank badges for good measure.
On top of that, I managed to adjust the valves, gap the points, and check the timing. It's more retarded than I'd like; maybe 3 degrees BTDC. This is the first bike with points ignition that I've worked on and I'm still a little unclear on how to adjust the timing without opening up the points gap. Anybody care to enlighten me?
Big R
Heaven is so far away.
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
Should just be 2 screws holding the points plate- break them loose and rotate the plate. But I've never worked on a 550, so check the manual first.
Tire guy? Coming from the man who built a tank and seat out of kevlar? C'mon Ringo.......mount the wheels as they are and give us a big sparky burnout!
;D
Should just be 2 screws holding the points plate- break them loose and rotate the plate. But I've never worked on a 550, so check the manual first.
Tire guy? Coming from the man who built a tank and seat out of kevlar? C'mon Ringo.......mount the wheels as they are and give us a big sparky burnout!
;D
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
Haha, I ordered them from a local place so they're going to mount them and put the finishing touches on my truing job. I'm absolutely clueless about tires...
I rotated the points plate, but it didn't affect when the points opened. I also rotated the points themselves and got them to open sooner, but the gaps were way too big. I'm stumped.
...Ah you know...I made so many changes that thinking about it now, it seems like they were opening at or a little after TDC before I monkeyed with them. Maybe rotating the plate moved them a little. I'll have to take a look tomorrow.
Haha, I ordered them from a local place so they're going to mount them and put the finishing touches on my truing job. I'm absolutely clueless about tires...
I rotated the points plate, but it didn't affect when the points opened. I also rotated the points themselves and got them to open sooner, but the gaps were way too big. I'm stumped.
...Ah you know...I made so many changes that thinking about it now, it seems like they were opening at or a little after TDC before I monkeyed with them. Maybe rotating the plate moved them a little. I'll have to take a look tomorrow.
t71ford
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
Cool man!!!!
on the points, you should have two adjustments: timing, and point gap. They are not really the same, although one does affect the other. The point gap (or dwell angle) is the distance or amount of time the breaker points actually open. As you know, this interrupts the ground circuit and consequent current flow through the coil, causing the coil field to collapse, and make a big spark. The gap is important only to ensure that this ground circuit is interrupted, and is specific only to ensure that the current flow is interrupted for only the small amount of time necessary.
Timing is different, in that timing decides when the point gap will open. They are entirely different adjustments. One should be at the points only, and one should be, like Rich said, by moving the entire breaker plate. I think you have already differentiated between the two adjustments, so there is what they each do. You will want to check and double check each adjustment, as one adjustment does slightly affect the other. On cars you usually set dwell (or point gap) first, and then re-adjust timing. You will have to use a timing light to do the final timing adjustments.
As far as specific specs, though, I am at a loss. All of my internal hard drive data is for cars, not bikes, so I don't really know the specs. Hopefully some of this helps, though.
Can't wait to see it going.....calling for 60's here this week!!!!!!!!!!!
Cool man!!!!
on the points, you should have two adjustments: timing, and point gap. They are not really the same, although one does affect the other. The point gap (or dwell angle) is the distance or amount of time the breaker points actually open. As you know, this interrupts the ground circuit and consequent current flow through the coil, causing the coil field to collapse, and make a big spark. The gap is important only to ensure that this ground circuit is interrupted, and is specific only to ensure that the current flow is interrupted for only the small amount of time necessary.
Timing is different, in that timing decides when the point gap will open. They are entirely different adjustments. One should be at the points only, and one should be, like Rich said, by moving the entire breaker plate. I think you have already differentiated between the two adjustments, so there is what they each do. You will want to check and double check each adjustment, as one adjustment does slightly affect the other. On cars you usually set dwell (or point gap) first, and then re-adjust timing. You will have to use a timing light to do the final timing adjustments.
As far as specific specs, though, I am at a loss. All of my internal hard drive data is for cars, not bikes, so I don't really know the specs. Hopefully some of this helps, though.
Can't wait to see it going.....calling for 60's here this week!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
Thanks guys. Gave it another go this morning, and rotated the plate all the way to the advanced side (it was all the way retarded before!) The points still only open between the T and F marks, and if I recall, the F mark is 5* BTDC. So that puts them at around 4* BTDC. I was only able to get them to open at the same place by opening up the 1/4 points to .015. Specs are .012-.016, and the 2/3 points are at .013. I'd really like both to be at .014, but I'm out of room to advance any more.
Kind of thinking an electronic ignition might be in my future.
Thanks guys. Gave it another go this morning, and rotated the plate all the way to the advanced side (it was all the way retarded before!) The points still only open between the T and F marks, and if I recall, the F mark is 5* BTDC. So that puts them at around 4* BTDC. I was only able to get them to open at the same place by opening up the 1/4 points to .015. Specs are .012-.016, and the 2/3 points are at .013. I'd really like both to be at .014, but I'm out of room to advance any more.
Kind of thinking an electronic ignition might be in my future.
Basement rat
Over 1,000 Posts
Re: '75 CB550 - Gulf - stoked to be spoked
Good God!, This bike is MINT! How have I missed it so long?
Good God!, This bike is MINT! How have I missed it so long?
