78 CB550 Carb Cleaning Question

[barnett468]

Alright genius, here's a quote from you "You can just spray carb cleaner thru each port with the long nozzle..." Because, ya know carb cleaner is perfectly fucking safe and has zero toxicity. Here's the MSDS for CRC carb cleaner- http://www.crcindustries.com/faxdocs/msds/5079.pdf Are you serious? You're making a big deal out of Pine Sol? Because clearly Teazer knows what he's talking about and it might refute you in some way, so all you can do is pick on his typo and his suggestion of Pine Sol. The issue is clearly that others have chimed in and maybe disagreed or have given other advice and now your panties are all in a wad. It's hard living in this world without confidence. I commend you for surviving this long.

Ummm...actually...my panties still fit just fine but you are free to come over and check for yourself if you like. ☺

 

[jryftc]

The only reason I got pine sol here was off the SOHC forms in a 550 FAQ carb building cleaning guide that's like their bible for that model. I've worked construction most of my life so OSHA, experience, not being a retard all apply outside of work to the bike hobby.

But yes, safety is important, especially with a lot of the volatile tand toxic products people work with, carb cleaner for sure. There Stage 2 aerosol cans of that are cancer in a bottle and so explosive that when permits haven't been followed with their storage have burned buildings to the ground via explosion.. A warm pine sol soak in a ventilated area is completely fine however though.

 

[barnett468]

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I wonder if anyone is going to answer the poor guys question, but I must admit, i find all this talk about my panties far more "stimulating". ☺

 

[teazer]

In a Keihin carb, the main jet (on those models and many similar) is the small round jet that is at the left of that picture. The long jet with the hex is the emulsion tube and typically the needle jet sits above that and is a press fit in the body of the carb and can usually be seen just visible sticking above the floor under the slide.

If the needle jet is in place, the emulsion tube usually sits like those with some threads showing.

To bench sync the carbs, what we are looking for is for all the slides to start to lift at exactly the same time. If one lifts early and others later, idle tends to be lumpy at best.

 

[jryftc]

haha, I actually read a bit more in that SOHC guide, I think I fucked up. I figured out a good way to bench sync off of carb 2, then I guess I'll switch the main jet back to stock with threads showing. Ordered new floats that aren't mangled, OEM. There's a valve guide (press fit). I may have put that in wrong. Does it go into the main chamber? or do you press it in with the needle like inside the carb. I'll put in a picture.

 

[barnett468]

In a Keihin carb, the main jet (on those models and many similar) is the small round jet that is at the left of that picture. The long jet with the hex is the emulsion tube and typically the needle jet sits above that and is a press fit in the body of the carb and can usually be seen just visible sticking above the floor under the slide.

If the needle jet is in place, the emulsion tube usually sits like those with some threads showing.

To bench sync the carbs, what we are looking for is for all the slides to start to lift at exactly the same time. If one lifts early and others later, idle tends to be lumpy at best.

Xlnt job, someone answered Jim . . unfortunately, I can't see the carbs on the device I am temporarily so I didn't want to guess which is why I didn't answer him.

So, op look inside all your carb bores and look at the height of the brass piece on the floor of the bore in the center . . this is the piece the needle goes in . . if they are not all exactly the same height, there is a problem.

If the hex is seated all the way bottoming out on the carb body, your needle jet may be loose . . check it out . . this would not be good.

 

[teazer]

The needle jet is a light press fit from below. Drop it in, followed by the emulsion tube and use the needle to line them up. Then just tighten the emulsion tube but use a small wrench and one finger to tighten it. Don't try to get it super tight. Just snug it up.

The small round main jet should screw in easily. If it is hard to turn the threads are wrong. Older Hondas used jets that look identical but have a different thread form and are not interchangeable ( except in an emergency)

 

[jryftc]

got it. thanks for all the help everyone, and the laughs I got from some of y'all going at it. Going to get to it ASAP and will update as soon as I get those floats in

 

[jryftc]

So she's all back together. Carbs cleaned correctly, bench synched, then fine tuned with a vacuum gauge. Doesn't appear to be any super critical air leaks on the air box adaptors. Everything to stock speck for PD46C carbs with the exception of the needle position, I raised it one for richer mix. Regardless bike is acting ok.

Still a bit of slight popping coming from the third cylinder. Not enough for me to be bummed, but it's there. Like I said previously, compression is 120 PSI across the board. After doing all this shit, and making sure my timing/electrical stuff was in line (professionally double checked by a mechanic) I think 3 might have some valve lash problem, only slightly. Going to go into it next week and take a look other than that the bike starts perfectly cold, hot, wet, dry, first kick. So that's where we're at.

If anyone has a good link for how to do that, let me know. I've never gotten into valves before, but I know it's regular maintenance and it appears it's only on the third cylinder, and slightly. Thanks.