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i guess it's a little late now, but a friend of mine (bradj) showed me that if you heat something good & hot with a torch, immediately put wax on it... as it cools, it sucks the wax down into the threads & acts as a lube... it worked!... we just took some of the kids crayons & kept them melting for about 15 or 20 seconds... a candle would have been better.
I'm really surprised those studs snapped like that ???
Are you sure those bores are OK it looks like some fine scratches running down there? There's a special punch (tool) to remove the valve guides, but why do you want to remove them without screwing them up? If you're replacing them it won't matter. Usually just the valve guide seals go off, and that's an easy fix.
It's hard to photograph the cylinders but I can still see the original cyclical boring marks. It's all going to a machinist anyway so I'm sure I'll add checking the piston walls to the list. I'm sure they'll need more attention than i think they will.
I was looking to remove the valve guides so that I can get the head milled. Judging by the manuals BWJ gave me I just tap them out from the combustion side after cleaning the carbon off right? I was hoping to salvage my guides and rods since I'm not the wealthiest person and can't get new replacements for everything in the engine.
But maybe Cycle X gets all my money anyway. I guess I knew deep down I'd be throwing lots of money at this thing.
Thanks for the manuals BWJ! These defensibly give better descriptions, pictures and instructions than my Clymer Manual does. Most of this time it's way to vague.
Step 1: Remove Engine
Step 2: Clean Engine
Step 3: Replace engine
Step 4: ? ? ? ?
Step 5: Profit!!
You bet! I went into my F3 build blindly and learned about the top end problems that are common with our bastard bikes. But once the parts get replaced all should be well.
I"m guessing Cycle X's F-2 head rebuild kit is the way to go with springs, valves, retainers, guides and seals all for a low low price. It's actually nice that they've got kit specifically for the Supersport.
Time to prep the frame for a media blast finish! I'm hoping I can use glass bead to create a satin finish on the metal and then clear coat it. I got the idea from Moots bicycles which do the same thing with titanium.
One of Wrench Monkees' first bikes was a CB750 and they also did a satin finish frame. This is also the main inspiration bike for my build. I'm pulling a lot of elements from this but also from a lot of readers rides on this site.
So lets start chopping!
I was recommended Aircraft paint stripper because of the tough nature of factory paint and this stuff works. And not like put it on and wait 20 minutes, but rather it works in seconds. I could lather the frame starting at the front and by the time I got to the rear I could start wire brushing the front off. Awesome stuff.
I've been working on getting all of my parts bead blasted at a neighborhood workshop. I'm starting to hear the sound of the compressor kicking in when I sleep.
Took the rear master cylinder apart and found rust. I guess I'll pony up for a new one.
Stripped the swing arm of paint and brightened it with a wire wheel
I soaked the pistons in parts cleaner and brightened them up as well
I think I am near the halfway point now. I'm taking the frame to the blasters to get totally cleaned and then powder coated along with the wheels. I'm also taking the engine out for machining. So with those done it's going to be about reassembly and fabrication for new parts.
In what seems like forever, I've started making progress in getting the bike put back together. The bead blasting process took up the most of my time and these last couple pieces were major pains.
The crankcase was also at the machinist's getting those two bolts removed and then needed blasting.
Here is the definitive turning point. Powder coating! I purchased an Eastwood system on sale and I am real happy with all the possibilities there are for doing my own work. I found a free, working oven on Craigslist and was all set to go.
I did a couple of test runs with scraps and love the results. I'm going to powdercoat the crankcase in a black wrinkle which should stand up to the elements, water and oils pretty well without showing wear.
I took my time masking because this stuff sticks like nothing else and no mineral spirits are going to clear away any overspray.
Not bad for a free oven
Proper ventilation.
Crankcase underside done first just in case I mess up. Looks absolutely awesome.
Both sides done! The top came out better than the bottom and looks great. This will be way tougher than factory paint.
I highly recommend powdercoat to any and everyone. It's so easy now to do in your own garage too.
I was wondering what the inside of my F3 looked like. You saved me a lot of time and money by satisfying my curiosity. Glad to see one of these guys getting a complete and very clean redo. I'm really eager to see this thing back together.
To parrot some others; nice build, love the pics of the engine breakdown, great to see another F3 getting the treatment she deserves. Also like the paint on the Comstars and look forward to seeing the complete paint scheme and custom seat.
Respect
CD
looking very nice. how'd you do the rims? i'm going to be painting a set of 78 comstars and i was wondering what people did to prep them. did you go over ever section of the rims with some sandpaper to rough them up? did you paint them? if so, what paint? they look really great.
looking very nice. how'd you do the rims? i'm going to be painting a set of 78 comstars and i was wondering what people did to prep them. did you go over ever section of the rims with some sandpaper to rough them up? did you paint them? if so, what paint? they look really great.
I had access to a medium blaster and everything went in there including the rims. I knew that I wanted to paint them and unfortunately powder coating was not an option because of the plastic clips holding the spokes to the rims would have melted right off.
So I just rattle can painted them. I used a spray booth and took my time because all of the nooks were a bear to get into. The color is Rustoleom hammered Dark Bronze. Although the hammered effect didn't really turn out I like the color.
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