'78 GS750 Suzuki brat/cafe "Fawkes"

Along with my other questions... I have another.

Will a GS850 front end fit on my frame? I am looking at the possibility of swapping to a dual disk fork setup.... would I still be able to use my wire wheels?

Thanks for any answers!

HR
 
Ya.. thanks for checking in. I think I will consult the GSR website for more info. I am sure my question(s) can be answered there!

HR
 
My 77 gs550 has the front brake switch built into the underside of the brake lever mount
but I'm changing my one out for a hydraulic switch built in to a banjo bolt
like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hydraulic-Brake-Pressure-Light-Switch-10X1-25mm-Banjo-Bolt-For-Suzuki-Yamaha-Hot-/151097015581?pt=AU_Motorcycle_Parts_Accessories&hash=item232e157d1d&_uhb=1
 
Hey Hoosier. Thanks for that. I am debating whether to swap or not. I have some pretty pitting bad at the top of the forks... the lower part is clean... but I am wondering whether there might be other ways to keep my forks and just hide or mask the pitting. I have been thinking about having a couple of tubes made that will cover the area between the triple trees....

Here is a pic of my forks currently.. but again the lower area where the action happens is very clean.
 
Ya.. so my forks are pretty ratty at the top... the other issue is whether or not I can still use my wire spoke rims if I switch to dual disc brakes... the wheel is at my parent's farm at the moment so I can't have a look at it until Sat.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN5331.JPG
    DSCN5331.JPG
    321.2 KB · Views: 261
So is there any reason why I couldn't have some sleeves made that would be JUST larger than the diameter of the forks and placed where you see my red in the picture?

Maybe I am crazy.
 

Attachments

  • Fork sleeve possibility.jpg
    Fork sleeve possibility.jpg
    181.9 KB · Views: 287
No reason why you can't at all, the headlight brackets on my R60 cover that entire area, most people just like to see the chrome there that's all. but if yours are in bad condition covering them is probably a cheaper alternative!
 
Yep, as long as the area below the triple tree is good you would be fine. The factory headlight ears covered that red section.
 
Thanks for the advice... I am going to use gaiters for the lower section anyway... also, if I am not mistaken (I haven't measured this yet) the forks on the GS are defo smaller than newer USD diameters, and if they make headlight brackets for those forks, I could in theory fab (or rather have one made for me) a sleeve that has an outside diameter similar to newer USD forks (whatever that is).

That is the plan. I originally thought of it because I love the thick fork look on my dad's V-Star. Then again, I am conflicted because Café Racers are supposed to be about simple lines, less weight.... function over form.... but seeing as it should save me some money I think it is a viable option.

Also... I really would like an all black front end (except the rim) so a powder coated top sleeve with gaiters and powder coated lowers should look quite good.

Thanks again guys!
 
The reason I brought up the area below the triple trees needs to be in good shape isn't for appearances. That is the surface the seals in the lowers runs against as the fork collapses and extends over bumps (jounce and rebound). Nicks / pits on that surface would destroy a seal in normal use.
Covering them with gaitors is only cosmetic if they weren't original from the factory like your GS, it had dust covers on top of the lowers...

I have seen fabricated chrome sleeves to cover the section between the triple tree (red) that chrome plumbing pieces from the hardware store were used, usually 1 1/4 or 1 1/2" can be found anywhere plumbing is sold.
 
I appreciate the advice!

I realize the pitting is dangerous if it occurs anywhere near the fork seals. In my case, there isn't any pitting down there... it seems to have corroded from top to bottom for some reason. The gaiters are just to allow an all black look.

The long term goal is to swap forks to allow for dual disks... I recently found a GS café racer picture where the wire wheel was used with dual disks so there is hope. I want to keep my wire wheels and not have to go and find a different hub. I am not positive that the hub used in this picture is an original GS wire wheel.. but hoping I can bolt another rotor on my front wheel (so both sides).

HR
 

Attachments

  • dsci0018.jpg
    dsci0018.jpg
    206.4 KB · Views: 6,077
Actually.. come to think of it, there are all kinds of gs750 café pics with dual rotors and wire wheels. I need to pay more attention.
 
Ok, since you showed an intrest in my exhaust here's the skinny.
Kerker Headers started teaming up with SuperTrapp way back in the day. Now if you search Kerker Exhaust it takes you to Supertrapps websight. SuperTrapp purchased Kerker in 1991. So now they are one in the same.

I was originally searching for any 4-1 header, Yoshi, Jardine, Vance & Hines, or Kerker... were the names I knew. When I found this one over on theGSResouces.com I discovered they used SuperTrapp mufflers back in the day. I was familiar with SuperTrapps muffler design from my Automotive Gearhead experiance and knew they were TUNABLE.
This one was used, nice chrome on the muffler, the hearder tubes were rusty but no dents at the down tubes bend that is so common from bottoming out... Think I paid $100 for it.
Next I covered the muffler with a garbage bag and taped it up with duct tape then sandblasted the rusty chrome on the headers. Wiped it down with rubbing alcohol and sprayed it with Rustoleum's "Ultra" Bar-B-Que paint. Once you let it cure while the build continues. Once ready you can start the bike in short runs, letting it gradually get hotter each time after full cool down periods. This fully cures the paint.
The nice thing about a SuperTrapp is the are tunable as mentioned earlier. You can change the amount of discs to get the desired power range. Less discs increase back pressure, low-midrange power and a quite tone. More discs gives less back pressure, higher RPM power and a louder tone. But too many and it is "peaky" and bottom end suffers. Great for the track but there is a happy medium for the street. Mine came with 5, and the end cap you saw. I bought an extra pack of 5 discs that are still available new and wound up with using 8.
 

Attachments

  • 12-12 rt small.jpg
    12-12 rt small.jpg
    201.4 KB · Views: 333
  • 0329111759b.jpg
    0329111759b.jpg
    131.6 KB · Views: 1,264
  • Small Supertrapp.JPG
    Small Supertrapp.JPG
    387.7 KB · Views: 393
  • Small Header.JPG
    Small Header.JPG
    477.1 KB · Views: 380
Oh, and there's your Gaiters too. ^
Got them from Cycle-X cheaper than the OEM dust covers that were on the lowers since mine were shot after 30 years.
 
Thanks... I will broaden my search for exhaust to include Kerker/Supertrapp 4-1!! Would love to pick up a set like yours. Very cool... I can imagine it sounds nice and I love the idea of being able to "tune" the exhaust just a little bit... I am sure it would be easier to deal with rejetting issues due to adding K&N pod filters... I will be going that route as my brother tossed out the airbox when he disassembled the GS. I can't find it anywhere!

HR
 
HolyRoller said:
Thanks... I will broaden my search for exhaust to include Kerker/Supertrapp 4-1!!!

HR
Try "GS750 Kerker". You never know how they will list it. I'd just try "GS750 Header" and see what you find. If you run across one of Pops Yoshimura's units in good shape at a decent price, snag it up! ;)
 
Well, spent all day Saturday alternating between going out to the garage and working on grinding and filing to de-tab the frame and then taking a break and returning to the house where I was soaking the carbs and various parts in pure Pine Sol. That stuff is amazing... if kept undiluted it will return carb jets and metal to its original state! I was amazed.

I will include some pictures when I get a chance. This week I will finish de-tabbing, and start work on rebuilding the calipers. I have to save some money in the short term... so doing anything I can that is either cheap or free.

I am debating whether to buy progressive springs (about $85 Can) for my original rear shocks... or buying new shocks altogether... any thoughts?

I am still really in debate about the tank... a decision I will have to make sooner or later... I keep putting it off. Dad and I decided that with all the work I am putting in this old money trap... I might as well tear the bottom apart, replace the seals and powder coat the entire engine (its in pieces anyway!)

Really enjoying building a bike and making it my own. I know its likely old news to you guys who have built multiple bikes but such a thrill for us newbies.

This week I had to buy a few more suits for work (I am a family/civil lawyer)... and I kept thinking... "this is money I could be spending on bike parts" I think I may be addicted!

HR
 
Well, spent some time cleaning the carbs over the past weekend. I am finished doing so, but haven't ordered rebuild kits yet. I will order complete kits when I do because this is a 30+ year old bike, the costs isn't great to do so, and it will help me to eliminate problems when I finally get the bike working.

A couple of pics of the carbs after cleaning (keep in mind I am not trying to create a 'garage queen' with this build... I want a bike I can ride. So I am not trying to get all the parts into 'as new' condition)...
 

Attachments

  • 20140326_153143.jpg
    20140326_153143.jpg
    669.6 KB · Views: 334
  • 20140326_153210.jpg
    20140326_153210.jpg
    304.3 KB · Views: 383
  • 20140326_153254.jpg
    20140326_153254.jpg
    636.8 KB · Views: 380
  • 20140326_153307.jpg
    20140326_153307.jpg
    518.3 KB · Views: 302
Back
Top Bottom