81 CB650 Brat/Cafe Build

Yeah I've seen that. My cheap multimeter doesn't make a tone for the continuity, it reads a 1 all the time and when I do get a readout it changes to a high number and then back to 1. What does that mean?
 
Just means its a cheap meter haha. Go look at pawn shops, I just got a super nice multi meter for $60 with two sets of probes and gator clips

Meter and grinder $140

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Can't say for sure but if you cleaned the surfaces and get a low 2 yes


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Had a little issue while riding home today, got er started and had a rough time keeping idle, seemed to stabilize and got it going, soon as I shifted to second it started to miss, got a mile down the road and it died, couldn't start it. Checked fuel level, it was plenty full but I switched to reserve just in case but still nothing, just cranked. Let it sit for 5 mins, came back and it started and I got home. I think it's time a shop has a look at it
 
dualero said:
Electrical gremlin, look for bad connections

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Sure enough, on plug 3, the wire was loose. I shoved it back in and taped it for now but looks like all new plug wires are in order. What's money anyway?
 
Thats cool. You do need to get a meter and see for sure your charging system is working or not, the bike runs best with a fully charged battery and buying parts to cure issues is futile unless you are sure.
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Thats cool. You do need to get a meter and see for sure your charging system is working or not, the bike runs best with a fully charged battery and buying parts to cure issues is futile unless you are sure.
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My electrician uncle is bringing his multimeter down today so I should get some quality readings finally. I still think its the rotor and R/R. When I tested the ohms on the same slip ring with my shitty meter, I got 1.2 ohms when it should be 0 but I'll triple check everything with the good meter.
 
Awesome uncles are the best.

I have an uncle super old dude now... he was a code writer way back in the beginning of computer development, he gave me my first windows machine and a stack of floppy's, his second life was a Lawyer and has helped me with drafting many contracts. He now (retired) is like an old ring leader in a think tank of a large group of Lawyers who do high profile Pro Bono help the little guy cases.
 
Uncles are the best for sure. Sounds like you got a good one!

So, with this good Fluke meter my results are:

R/R diode test:
With pos on white wire, neg check on each yellow wire, it read 1.6 across them all with no beep.
With neg on white wire, pos check on each yellow wire it read 0 across them all with no beep.

With pos on black wire, neg check on all yellow wires, it read 1.27 across them all with no beep.
With neg on black wire, pos check on all yellow wires, it read 0 across them all with no beep.

Rotor:
With pos and neg on the same slip ring, it reads 0
With pos on one slip ring and neg on the other slip ring it reads .6

Stator:
All yellows ohm out at .6
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Seems to me yes. Strange its all shot... did a power spike happen that could cause the failures?
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Not that I could think of...

So all of its shot, rotor, stator and R/R?
 
Well I know the rotor is shot, the numbers are way too off to be good. The stator however is only out of spec by .1 ohms and they were all continuous at the same reading, does that really mean it's shot? And the rectifier did show continuity as well, same readings just now beep. As you can tell electrical isn't my thing... I'm just trying to avoid buying something I don't truly need.
 
theres a good post here with specific instructions on diagnosing the cb650.

http://hondacb650.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=1981&p=13462&hilit=charging+system+diagnostic#p13462

hope that helps clear a few things up.
 
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