880 Norton Sprint Special - "real - time" build, lots of photos
- Thread starter grandpaul
- Start date
As soon as I snapped the picture of the rolling chassis, the mailman pulled up with a few more goodies; they'll have to wait till later to install-
Nifty Brembo front brake master cylinder with either black plastic or gold anodized cap; also all-in-one switch cluster
Very spiffy Blanchard ground front brake disc, drilled for better cooling, lighter weight and gas dissipation
Nifty Brembo front brake master cylinder with either black plastic or gold anodized cap; also all-in-one switch cluster
Very spiffy Blanchard ground front brake disc, drilled for better cooling, lighter weight and gas dissipation
Back to my friend's shop and a bit of work on the chain adjuster blocks.
I drilled the axle holes first, then on the first one I cut the stock part way with the bandsaw before realizing it would be more stable in the mill if I left it attached
The second one I just cut off and dressed with a belt grinder; much easier and very similar results for a low precision part
I drilled the axle holes first, then on the first one I cut the stock part way with the bandsaw before realizing it would be more stable in the mill if I left it attached
The second one I just cut off and dressed with a belt grinder; much easier and very similar results for a low precision part
Complete gear cluster installed, don't forget the shifter trunnion before installing the inner cover!
Inner cover in place; I'll align the clutch lifter just before installing the outer cover
I'm going "middle of the road" with the 19 tooth sprocket to start with and see how the highway RPMs look with the Honda rear sprocket. I still have an 18 tooth (lower gearing) and a 20 tooth (higher gearing) that I can test.
Inner cover in place; I'll align the clutch lifter just before installing the outer cover
I'm going "middle of the road" with the 19 tooth sprocket to start with and see how the highway RPMs look with the Honda rear sprocket. I still have an 18 tooth (lower gearing) and a 20 tooth (higher gearing) that I can test.
Transmission installed with all the hardware including the thick spacer for the top adjuster bolt
Lower lump in place with temporary front isolastic hardware (needs the adjuster ends)
So, another milestone, the basic engine components are in the rolling chassis
I'm not sure I have spare top end gaskets, but if I do, I'll have the engine done tonight.
Lower lump in place with temporary front isolastic hardware (needs the adjuster ends)
So, another milestone, the basic engine components are in the rolling chassis
I'm not sure I have spare top end gaskets, but if I do, I'll have the engine done tonight.
Sounds like you have a lot of shelves with parts laying around on them
Today was a great day, I was left pretty much alone (no phone calls, no "honey-dos", etc) and managed to get a lot done.
Started with the pistons just after lunch, used the wide band ring compressor tools which are a bit of a pain. Anyway, I managed to get the cylinders in with a new base gasket and no drama.
I still have the other two allen head bolts on order before I can nip up the top end. Anyway, I sat the head in place for inspiration...
Started with the pistons just after lunch, used the wide band ring compressor tools which are a bit of a pain. Anyway, I managed to get the cylinders in with a new base gasket and no drama.
I still have the other two allen head bolts on order before I can nip up the top end. Anyway, I sat the head in place for inspiration...
This is as clean as the area between the tranny and crankcase will ever be for the rest of this bike's life-
Note the shimmed center stud/nut stand-off for the inner primary case; I've ssen far more cracked inner cases than unbroken ones, due to improper installation. First you DRY FIT the inner case with it's gasket and the three small bolts SNUG, not tight, to the crankcase. Then, you measure the gap to the stand-off shoulder and shim it up with different thickness washers as required, THEN you bolt it all up.
Whipped out my mighty Norton clutch holder tool made from one of each old plain and friction plates bolted to what used to be a replica medieval war axe. No putting it in gear and holding the brake-
Note the shimmed center stud/nut stand-off for the inner primary case; I've ssen far more cracked inner cases than unbroken ones, due to improper installation. First you DRY FIT the inner case with it's gasket and the three small bolts SNUG, not tight, to the crankcase. Then, you measure the gap to the stand-off shoulder and shim it up with different thickness washers as required, THEN you bolt it all up.
Whipped out my mighty Norton clutch holder tool made from one of each old plain and friction plates bolted to what used to be a replica medieval war axe. No putting it in gear and holding the brake-
I've been saving these Surflex solid fiber friction plates for "just such an occasion". They are unbelievably expensive and very hard to obtain these days
I didn't end up using the "stuffer" plate (metal base, with only one side friction material, as the clutch stack was optimized perfectly with the thinner of the two pressure plates (nice to have options)
Also installed the Lucas alternator, snugged up the primary chain, and nipped up the transmission.
I didn't end up using the "stuffer" plate (metal base, with only one side friction material, as the clutch stack was optimized perfectly with the thinner of the two pressure plates (nice to have options)
Also installed the Lucas alternator, snugged up the primary chain, and nipped up the transmission.
This dang engine is almost done! Just need the two cylinder thru-bolts, 2 long nuts that go up underneath the front of the head from below, and the new gasket set to finish. I had new cylinder base gasket, tranny inner cover gasket, and primary inner cover gasket on the shelf leftover from other projects. You should see the "spare parts" bike! (new thread later); actually, you can just make out parts of it behind this shot...
By golly, now we're getting somewhere!
By golly, now we're getting somewhere!
Had a slow morning and didn't get a lot done; mainly sorted out what spacers, shims and bushings I'm going to need to get the rear wheel to work right. Also found out the new chain is not the correct size, I need a 530, not 520. This afternoon was better.
Making a note of which pipe on the oil filter is the inlet, and which is the outlet, so I can plumb it properly tomorrow. Once I istall this sucker, it's WAY up underneath and behind the tranny-
I mounted the Sparx regulator/rectifier and ignition boxes side-by side, leaving room for a fusebox behind-
Making a note of which pipe on the oil filter is the inlet, and which is the outlet, so I can plumb it properly tomorrow. Once I istall this sucker, it's WAY up underneath and behind the tranny-
I mounted the Sparx regulator/rectifier and ignition boxes side-by side, leaving room for a fusebox behind-
Test-fitted the carbs, it turns out the brand new cables are CHOKE cables; I need to trim the lower dual cable sheaths to allow full length for the cables inside the carbs-
You can barely see it, but the dual lead coil is mounted just under and behind the headstock. Took me a while to sort and modify some spacers for the Z-plates, the originals are expensive! Got the rearsets mounted and adjusted.
Also figured out what I need to weld to mount the root end of the rear brake torque arm. Still need to work out a brake cable abutment that will bolt up to the torque arm. Had to trim the early style battery try to fit the later style oil tank, it's still more than big enough for a modern AGM battery.
It's looking a lot more like a motorcycle now.
You can barely see it, but the dual lead coil is mounted just under and behind the headstock. Took me a while to sort and modify some spacers for the Z-plates, the originals are expensive! Got the rearsets mounted and adjusted.
Also figured out what I need to weld to mount the root end of the rear brake torque arm. Still need to work out a brake cable abutment that will bolt up to the torque arm. Had to trim the early style battery try to fit the later style oil tank, it's still more than big enough for a modern AGM battery.
It's looking a lot more like a motorcycle now.
Got in 3 uninterrupted hours this morning and managed to get a few things sorted. Started with swapping out the Lucas alternator stator for the almost new Sparx unit.
As is usually the case, the Norton stator spacers stand the stator too far off, allowing only 75% rotor/stator interface. I shortened the 3 spacers about 1/4" and got closer to 90% interface. I believe it helps provide the maximum charge available.
Also made sure I didn't get the stator too close to the primary chain
One job finished...
As is usually the case, the Norton stator spacers stand the stator too far off, allowing only 75% rotor/stator interface. I shortened the 3 spacers about 1/4" and got closer to 90% interface. I believe it helps provide the maximum charge available.
Also made sure I didn't get the stator too close to the primary chain
One job finished...
Here's a hard choice:
A) Original Norton Commando (Lucas) horn, new, weighs about 3 pounds, draws about 1-1/2 amps, and mounts with double plates, sub-mounted to an angled plate, in a ridiculous location that requires removing the rear wheel and fender to get to
or
B) Aftermarket horn, new, weighs about 3 ounces (less, actually), draws about a half amp, and mounts up by the coil, with one simple plate, easily accessible
I made my choice
A) Original Norton Commando (Lucas) horn, new, weighs about 3 pounds, draws about 1-1/2 amps, and mounts with double plates, sub-mounted to an angled plate, in a ridiculous location that requires removing the rear wheel and fender to get to
or
B) Aftermarket horn, new, weighs about 3 ounces (less, actually), draws about a half amp, and mounts up by the coil, with one simple plate, easily accessible
I made my choice
