You're asking for suggestions? Heck, I'm good at that type of thing. You might be sorry you asked though.
One thing I'd love to see, lots of work and all, but if you want a classic look? First thing most important of all you need to strip all of the paint off of that engine using paint stripper, I've heard it works really well. I guess I didn't need to do mine with wire wheels and sand paper, ha ha. But polished side cases, a bare alloy case under clear coat, and maybe a frame painted up the same as the bodywork, ala BMW /2 era stuff. I always liked the paint on old school desks, that teal metal flake that almost looked like it was galvanized. That would have some great vibes when you look down at the frame tubes and you're back in school again. I'm leaning toward that for my own bike. But candy paint makes everything look retro, so I think I'll go with a classic Honda livery. Speaking of Livery, nothing wrong with British Racing Green, aka BRG! With a bold paint colour like that maybe the frame could be a classic black or silver, much like the frame on a classic older version of itself, a Trident or Rocket 3. It might be cool to go for a faux patina, like a verdigris type of thing. A scale model website would have lots of info on weathering a paint job to make it look old.
And hey: SPOKED WHEELS. Sounds hard, but it can be done, and it would be waaay beyond cool. And on a budget too, most of the parts can be found on the cheap. Grab some hubs off of say, a Honda GL1000 up front, maybe a dirt-bike hub for the rear. Actually, you've got a single sided swing-arm (SSS) there dontcha? Well then, a great technique I've seen used for certain shaft-drive bikes where wheel swaps aren't as simple, (saw this done on the CB750C custom forum, on a shaftie CB900C, by a guy named "6pkrunner") the technique is to mill down the stock hub into a smooth cylinder, and then take an old drum brake hub and mill that out (or take 'em to a machine shop where they'll have a lathe, as then it will all be perfectly round and concentric) and fit one within the other and weld it all up tight. Voila! A spoked wheel hub for any type of installation! In an instance for an SSS wheel, you wouldn't need to use a rear hub at all as you wouldn't need to find a way to put a rotor on a hub with a fixed sprocket drive (which usually have those little rubber dampers in them, which you don't want on a rotor) you could actually use a front hub with the smooth sided polished alloy dome on the outward side. And given that the outer flange was thick enough (ie as thick as on a heavy-duty old school superbike hub like for KZ or CB) then you could use a rather small front drum hub or even a dis hub, and it wouldn't have to be all that bulky back there. Not unless you want it to be. And as for rims, even the rims needn't be all that pricey. For MY wheels, not only am I using the stainless spokes from the original old wheels which are often in great shape (and can be cut down for smaller wheels) not only am I cutting corners on the spokes, I'm thinking of lacing up the rim I cut out of the rear comstar wheel from my '82 CB750F, and if you look around at say, Duc Sport Classics, the rims on them are just like you'd get if you cut out some wheels like you have right there. I've found that certain steel rims for choppers are much much cheaper, but I think that a cut down cast wheel would do great for one thing because the rim itself is much much thicker, so the weight might not be as great as one of the expensive jobs from Buchanan's, but it would really cut corners price wise. Also, Buchanan's will cut down and re-thread old spokes for about twenty bucks. For your off-set rear wheel, you could have them calculate the right lengths for the off-set between the rim and hub. A great thing about the GL1000 front hub is it has 6 rotor bolts, so it will match up to many many modern rotors. Me, I'm going for 18" wheels, but a good set of 17" could be done for a lot less than we're all led to believe (ie $200 or less per wheel for parts as opposed to $400-$600 for the catalog rims @$250-$400ea and new spokes @ $100/set). It's all about sourcing cheap steel rims intended for budget Harley chopper builds. It's not cheap to ship things, so I should have bought my wheels just as a cut out hub, that would have paid for new spokes anyways, but GL wheels can be bought for cheap. There are several builders of aftermarket wheels for the Duc sportclassic, so I think that the broad spoke nipples they use should be available soon, and I've heard of people making their own too. I think those spoke nipples would help with using cast rims cut out of wheels like yours. Incidentally, some of those aftermarket rims are both spoked AND tube-less, and much much lighter than OEM sportclassic type.
THAT said, I also think it could use an old-school tank. If you move the airbox to the old-school position under the seat, you could get a good capacity of both tank and air, but any which way it could be done a number of ways. But it would be cool to take new alloy (I've found a site a while back, a guy with a new shop starting up, was building CR750 tanks and any other custom alloy tank you want, for about five hundred bucks!) and fit as good of a "tunnel" as you can, and make the sides of it overlap the frame rails a bit so it looks a bit more like a back-bone frame. I mean, IF you were trying to figure out how to get that retro backbone look. It's the tank's profile that looks modern, not so much the bottom edge. If you were to look strictly at the silhouette, and cut down that hump and go to a softer french curve on the tank that would improve things a lot. Heck, if you were to sacrifice capacity it would be simple, but I think the relocation of the air filter would be the way to go. You don't wanna shrink down the air space though, as that's supposed to kill power. If you could make it tuck into all of the space under the seat, I'd bet that would help, and it could be plumbed to the carbs via some type of longer boots or even just boots into a rectangular duct which could hook up to the rest of it any which way, if it's not too restrictive it's not gonna hurt the whole down-draft carb thing. Of course, it might need jetting at that point, but a bigger air-box is supposed to be a GOOD thing that way. If the volume just works out about the same then maybe you don't need to pay for jets. Seems like your subframe comes off, that would make it easier to put one like that in there, and make it easier to make the best of available space as well. I always pictured a weather balloon filled with a plaster, like a hummel figurine, dropped into the space available, and then if it's stuck you can cut it down to get it out again. Then a shape like that could be glassed. Or, some of that spray foam insulation, with saran wrap over the parts so clean-up isn't a nightmare. Either way you could then either glass it or use heated plastic sheet draped over it, and then glue that to a conventional shape on the forward end of it, where you can put the flat side for the boots to hook up to and maybe a door for the filter as well. I picture a huge cylindrical filter loading in from behind the side cover. Electronics tucked under the seat and as much as possible up front, and as small a battery as can be found, possibly tucked in right behind the carbs. I'm just thinking of this whole thing as a means to change the way the tank sits on this style of bike, so that it needn't have such a hump for a tank.
The forks could use either gaiters, or what I'm trying to figure out here (I've mocked up a rear shock so far) is an old school tin covered shock set up. And the front fork sliders should be painted, maybe even sculpted a little bit too, to seem as though they're a one-piece construction. The whole composite USD-ish look isn't all that classic looking.
And, (this being yet ANOTHER suggestion I'm taking from the way my own DOHC CB750 imitates the old sandcast SOHC-er) you might wanna mod the sub-frame to take a rear fender with a separate tail light, a chrome fender even. My CB is using an old KZ440ltd fender that's been cut down a heck of a lot. It could be cut really really short, sorta brat-style, but it would then look as though it was there originally and was then cut down and THAT was the customization you did.
The rad and oil cooler could be swapped out or stripped of paint also. Leave off any cowl from the rad to show lots of fins. Personally, looking at all of the water cooled engines out there, like the Japanese fours, if I was gonna cafe one of them, and I was doing any engine work, I'd cut grooves into the cylinder barrels and heads, and braze or TIG/MIG a bunch of flat alloy stock into those grooves, and that way fake up some nice fins for the things. It's not gonna fuck anything up, 'cause they're just a water jacket around that part of the engine, so they're not gonna warp the head gasket surfaces this way. And on a Brit bike, I think it would be cool to take those fins and file them down in a rounded tapered shape so they'd look like the casting on an old engine. It sounds like a lot, but if you've ever heard of how much trouble it is to patch an old cracked fin it doesn't sound all THAT bad. It was a technique a few hard-core chopper specialists did on Triumphs and Harleys back in the day, to stretch the existing fins on an air-cooled engine in order to increase it's cooling capacity through greater surface area. I wonder if this wouldn't allow one to use a smaller radiator on a water cooled engine, just to put some fins on the barrels and head. Look at the Bandit 1200, oil cooled, not all that big of fins they're more like grooves. So, yes it sounds extreme but if you wanted to make a modern retro-bike cafe out of a totally modern bike that's how I'd go. It's a mystery to me why the designers at Honda thought it necessary to go all out and put an air cooled engine in the new CB1100, heck it could have used at least a hybrid with a smaller water jacket, that way they could have built a competitive engine with all of the power of the heavy hitters they sell, and the bike wouldn't just be for nostalgic old farts like me, it could sell as an alternate hot-rod.
I know an idea like that wouldn't fly on your 955, as it's got stuff coming out of the sides of the engine, there's no room left for fins, no doubt a stylistic decision for a naked bike. But this engine, it was originally from a fully faired bike, wasn't it? Well, if that's the case, then it's just dumb luck that it doesn't look as ugly as other water-cooled engines. Another classic Brit bike thing would be to take some of those bits that come off the sides of the engine all weird, you could paint them the same as the magnesium bits on an old AJS or Velocette or other Brit bike that had crazy shit on the sides of the head. Seriously, I guess some of these common furniture laquer and paint strippers will take off even powder coat from an engine and they don't mess up the gaskets or anything, guys on the 1100F forum have done some beautiful engine re-paints on whole engines, and I thought they looked best just stripped down with no paint. Anyway yeah, your bike isn't the right engine for fake fins all grafted onto the thing. It's a wonder why more manufacturers don't put fins on engines anymore, water-cooled or not.
I get that most serious bike builders don't like to put fake shit on their bikes, like the plastic thing on the Suzuki Gladius that mimics the Duc Monster's alloy frame castings. I mean, the thing would look better without. It's still a tubular frame, it's hella cool that way. (As is the 955 by the way) they didn't need to stick a fake plastic thing on it but they did and they took a bit of a beating in the press for it. Thing is, bikes have all sorts of fake plastic shit on them that make you THINK they're technical. Take the Sandcast/Diecast Honda CB750K0 side covers and the little steel grill-cloth in the fins that are cut in them. Or worse, the fake assed fins they stuck in the ugly side-covers on my bike. Which went straight in the bin as soon as I decided to modify the bike. That's sort of like a fake air-box. Oh, hey speaking of which. For a classic look on a Brit bike, go for airbox sides (like I was saying, relocate it from under the tank, make it bigger by sticking it under the seat and behind the carbs) like the old Brit ones, with a perforated steel grill material, it's pretty easy stuff to find whether you want it in plastic or chromed steel, that's why they used it. I picked up some ABS sheet to do my side-covers and to modify my seat cowl (on the seat which I ditched and built a new pan out of fibreglas) but it would be great stuff to make a new airbox out of. Depends what yours is made from, mine is nylon and you can only plasti-weld nylon (if there's no glass in it aka delrin) you can glue ABS however. With a different inlet like that, you could put in a much bigger air filter. I've seen stuff where people do something like a modified Pod installation, where a huge-assed truck type air filter is used attached to the carbs, and a filter like that could have a cover in that grill stuff to look really classic.
I get that you've picked out a seat from Dime City, but you need a cool old banana seat on it. You wanna be able to pick up chicks on it, don't you? You could still use the cowl from the one you've picked, just as a cover for the rear of the seat. The new Nortons and Triumph cafes use them like that, they just go over top of the banana seat. Maybe the foam could be cut down a bit so it's not huge like an old school true replica Triumph seat, so many Brit bikes had such ugly assed seats straight from the factory (probably what inspired the cafe seats). But an old replica seat cover with the manufacturers logo on the back of it. A steel seat pan could be fitted and put on hinges, or you could mold a new one up. Maybe some type of chrome grab rail for your cycle bitch. You might even want to mod your sub-frame so it sits more level, that would look more like an old Brit standard, hence a starting point for a cool cafe. The front fender ought to be an alloy type, or at least a simple strip type rather than some crazy newfangled type of thing, that look always ruins a cafe for me. And to go with the rear fender's separate tail light, you'd want signal lights on stalks, maybe even a set off an old Brit bike. The mini-lights look cool on classic bikes, but the modern bikes need that little bit of classic cache'. Maybe a headlight visor, and a "pedestrian slicer" on the front fender? How about twin Smiths style clocks in distinctly separate tin cans?
Your rear-sets could use some of the classic replica rubbers on them both on the pegs and on the pedals. And the passenger pegs should go right back on the bike, IMHO. Even if you don't have a sweet-heart, it's fun to pick up hitch-hikers every now and again.
If you ask me, the maker's logo on brake calipers isn't just tacky, it's too modern looking. So, even though mine are just from '82, I filed off the "Honda" from each one. And sanded off the black powder-coat. It goes without saying, the chain guard and the "shark fins" have gotta go, as does the cover over the drive sprocket. You wanna see the chain and sprockets, that's just cool techno bling . Everybody's putting clip-ons on the old bikes. What would be cool on a bike like the 955, would be to take a set of the rubber dampened bar mounts off of say, a KZ440ltd (I used mine to make adjustable clip-ons, otherwise they'd be up for grabs) drill some holes in your top clamp and mount the things up, and put a clubman bar on it. Of course, all of that would have to be really shiny. And some old alloy control pods and master cylinder would be awesome too. That's more shit from my own build too. But you'd have opportunity to put some Lucas electronics on yours without anglicizing a Jap bike, a real sin in my book, considering how cool old Jap bikes were. (It just lends more ammunition to the pricks and nut-jobs who think cafe racers were invented and patented outside some coffee shop in England, as opposed to, say, Italia. Or anywhere else where people rode hopped-up bikes and drank coffee....)
You've already got the megaphone, that's cool. I wonder if the header itself could be painted in a high-heat resistant silver? Pipes were seldom black back in the day. When they were, they often had a silver guard on them, on a scrambler they did at least. If your pipe is anywhere higher than the old horizontal type, then maybe you could consider it a pseudo-scrambler. You really don't see the pipe on the one side, not even the header. Is that swingarm alloy or steel? If it's alloy, it ought to be polished. The pipe was the real deal on the old triples. Even Kawa' triples. Especially on Kawa's I should say. But on the BSA/Triumph they were really cool, with the middle splitting right off the head. If any kind of replica pipe like that could be made, you'd start getting attention from the folks back at Triumph, not that they'd give you credit for it but if they could push out yet another version of their new retro line using parts they have on the shelf, maybe that would sell better than just sticking a different pipe or seat cowl on their twin! Hell, just think of what you could make if you had access to all the parts they've made since their "return". Far as I'm concerned, they never went away. Heck, the Big Brit companies were making bikes right through the 80's and 90's. Wish to hell Norton would bring the rotary back, but they probably won't even though it just might be the neatest bike they ever made.... They came back with the triple for a reason, but they never really showed a connection between the new one and the old trident, I guess because retro-classic styled bikes weren't all the rage at that time. I mean, they could have been. Guzzi was making a twin painted up just like the Telaio Rosso, all modern type suspension off of their Daytona, but the paint brought back more than a hint of it's roots. The Triumph triples never really did that. They got around to it, but did so with a twin.
Anyway, if you were to follow MY prescription for a cool 955 cafe racer, the whole thing could then use some old BSA Rocket 3 badges. That would be tha Coop Day Gracey. Finis.
You DID say "feed-back". Ha ha. AND "suggestions".
. I love triples (had old Tridents, XS750 and own a 1050 Tiger) and this one was a blast on the track. After I decided to hang my boots, I thought about selling it but it was so rough that I wouldn't get much for it. The fairings are all cracked and scraped so it would require a full set to bring it to its original state, hence the cafe idea. 
