A loud pop, then engine dies, then I have to push a cb350 2 miles

[mydlyfkryzis]

Beefy man arms and red loctite = broken bolt heads.

Brute strength does not work when finesse is needed.

I can add a 6 foot pipe to my breaker bar and make up for my gangly boy arms, but beefy guys never get the hang of finesse.

 

[Catbird]

If a hammer or a torch is brute force, a hammer plus a torch is finesse.

I've had lots of luck using hot and cold to expand or contract the work area, or to degrade the Loctite to get it to release. ALso, a combination of acetone and lightweight motor oil works wonders for that stuff.
My brains are meaty too!

 

[cgguy09]

Hey guys,
Quick request for an opinion. Should I replace any if these parts?
For the cam chain parts, the tensioner ( the smaller wheel) looks okay ( I believe) there is definitely a raised middle section that's even all around and 2 distinct outside lips.
The guide has two warn treads that are not pArticularly deep.
I didn't even include the roller ( the larger wheel)...that's all torn up.
My cam chain looks pretty good, but I'll replace it anyway because its only 25 bucks or so.

I was looking online for these parts in seems these are a bit harder to come by... Western hills Honda has them, but their prices are the worst.

 

[cgguy09]

Another update, I just tested my valves and my right exhaust didn't hold the alcohol for the acceptable period. In fact it leaked it instantly, the carb cleaning solution I was using dripped out and got all over my gym shorts and it definitely fucking hurt, there is a good chance my neighbor saw me rip off my pants and run inside.

This is an new development, I tested it 500+ miles ago and it was fine. I just called autozone and they have one on loan i can use.... I know th trick is to to get that cotter clip off between the retainer cap and the exhaust valve stem.

I still realize the damage could have been far worse. So I'm not angry, other than I fact my cock hurts.


Sincerely yours,
Fire crotch

 

[cgguy09]

If a hammer or a torch is brute force, a hammer plus a torch is finesse.

I've had lots of luck using hot and cold to expand or contract the work area, or to degrade the Loctite to get it to release. ALso, a combination of acetone and lightweight motor oil works wonders for that stuff.
My brains are meaty too!

Whew, you guys are light years ahead of me

 

[teazer]

FYI: Heat breaks the grip of Loctite. So in this case heat plus force is finesses, even if the OP was joking.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

If a hammer or a torch is brute force, a hammer plus a torch is finesse.

I've had lots of luck using hot and cold to expand or contract the work area, or to degrade the Loctite to get it to release. ALso, a combination of acetone and lightweight motor oil works wonders for that stuff.
My brains are meaty too!

That explains a lot...anyone ever refer to you as "Meathead?" LOL

I agree though, you don't need the beefy arm if you finesse the part with a little warmth.

 

[Catbird]

I know, I know! I've just got a lot of Polish heritage and I'm a huge guy, 6'3" and 260lbs. I look like a bear riding a Shriner's bike, on my little DT250. So it's funny to make jokes in that context.

Also, OP:
If you can afford to replace any of the parts attached to the stuff that broke, I would highly recommend it. ALso, carb cleaner, if I recall correctly, is highly acidic. In the future, I recommend keeping a big box of baking soda on hand in the garage, because it's useful not only for neutralizing battery acid and acidic cleaning solutions, but also for putting out oil and gas fires.

 

[cgguy09]

I know, I know! I've just got a lot of Polish heritage and I'm a huge guy, 6'3" and 260lbs. I look like a bear riding a Shriner's bike, on my little DT250. So it's funny to make jokes in that context.

Also, OP:
If you can afford to replace any of the parts attached to the stuff that broke, I would highly recommend it. ALso, carb cleaner, if I recall correctly, is highly acidic. In the future, I recommend keeping a big box of baking soda on hand in the garage, because it's useful not only for neutralizing battery acid and acidic cleaning solutions, but also for putting out oil and gas fires.

Yep, definitely threw baking soda on my dick.....great minds think alike.

I'm willing to replace them, bet is does anyone know anything better than NOS/OEM parts? Normally I look to the bits down at DCC, but they don't have those parts.


Thanks fellas

 

[Catbird]

Unfortunately, there isn't likely to be much of an aftermarket source for upgraded parts, with OEM being roughly equivalent or better than any available reproductions.
With cars it's different, since there's such a *massive* following and so much market for rebuilds and modification.

Most everyone with a running CB350 wants to trick it out, but that much said, there are considerably less CB350 engines than there are, say, small-block Chevy 350's.

I could be wrong, I've been wrong plenty before. But my recommendation is to buy factory NOS/OEM.

 

[cgguy09]

Good copy on that. I just didn't know if anything lasted longer.
I'll pick up a few parts...

Also considering I pulled my two exhaust valves, one was perfect, the other (of course) bent. So I'll be replacing that. I'm trying to find a place to buy individual ones. But in the removal process, I lost retainer in my buddies garage...I'll never find it in that rat nest.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

I could be wrong, I've been wrong plenty before. But my recommendation is to buy factory NOS/OEM.

I agree except for one aspect: some rubber parts are crap after 40 years even if they are "New".

Some plastic parts too......

Metal parts? they last forever.

 

[Catbird]

Absolutely, I neglected to consider that in my generalization.

Fortunately in many cases, things such as rubber seals are pretty universal. The clutch actuator seal in my DT250, for example, is the same part number as in a modern FZR. Fancy that.

 

[cgguy09]

Lords of the underworld,
I've ordered all my stuff

I ordered 4 new valves from Sirius Consolidated Inc. about $70.00, best price I could find (just installed today)
I got my cam bolts from Glenn. (thanks brother) $10
Cam Chain Wheel from Parts N more $14 (plus 14.50 shipping...no shit...gotta read the small print next time)
Gaskets, Cam Chain, Cam Chain link, and Dime City Cycler Garage Banner (it was 9 bucks....I can spare a little food money to represent) that came out to be about $70 (special thanks to DCC for the $5.00 shipping...saved me a fair amount)

The DCC stuff & the cam wheel should be here tomorow...so I get to have the bike running by saturday evening? Nope. I'll have to wait til sunday to start, I'm heading to Mizzou to watch the football game.

Which means I'll have to work fast and diligent when I return to ensure I can make it to Schlafly's class bike night.

I'll keep you chuckle-heads updated.

Take care, boys

 

[cgguy09]

New Gasket Kit, never seen these pieces before....

Hey gents,
Got the Gasket kit in...still waiting on the Cam Wheel.

In the mean time, I got some parts from the DCC Top End Rebuild Kit for Cb/cl 350 for 70-73. And it came with 6 rubber pieces I don't recognize. 4 are same, slightly rigid rubber with metal rings around the top. 2 are wider and softer rubber.

Heres the DCC link: http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-engine-parts-honda-cb350-cl350-top-end-engine-gasket-set-165-1002t.html

I've attached a picture for reference.

It may be a problem that I've never seen these before...either coming off or going on the bike.

Thanks Team!

 

[lingo]

The 4 that are the same are valve stem seals

 

[HerrDeacon]

The top four are valve stem seals and are not used on a 350. Can't recall what the other two are, someone here will know.

 

[mydlyfkryzis]

I believe they are the rubber collars that go around 2 of the head studs.....The fiche should show them..

 

[cgguy09]

The 4 that are the same are valve stem seals

Just checked, the kit comes with the seals but the cb350 doesn't use it....
Good thing, I'm always scared when you have parts left over after you start.

 

[cgguy09]

Ehem ehem....fuck me.

So I failed to ensure my torque wrench was properly locked after dialing in the specified torque for the bolt connecting the cylinder head to the cylinder block ( that 6mm bolt right in front of the spark plug port) and I stripped the threads on the block....

What are my options? The only thing that comes to mind is helicoil. Which I've actually never done. But after watching YouTube videos I feel it's not too difficult....

Also, I tried a long bolt, but that also failed.

And I was on my way to a Boy Scout meeting to volunteer....I guess karma doesn't pay forward